Ageing Like Fine Wine: The New Science Of Regenerative Skincare

In a quest to arrest age from showing up on our face, the beauty industry has bombarded us with a plethora of options ranging from tiny jars filled with potions of promise to injectables that smooth out lines formed over the years. But between expensive creams that don’t always live up to the hype and the fear of altering too much by going under the knife, there’s a new wave redefining how ageing skin is tackled.

Dr Bindu Sthalekar, a celebrity dermatologist, cosmetologist and trichologist who is the founder of Skin Smart Solutions and Doctor B, says, “Today, the conversation around ageing has shifted from simply trying to look younger to improving the quality and health of one’s skin. Treatments that stimulate collagen and improve firmness, texture and elasticity are increasingly becoming popular.” The goalpost has shifted to achieving skin that functions like its younger, not just looks the part. Agrees Dr Rashmi Ambastha, the director of spa, wellness and recreation at Fairmont Mumbai, “The trend is moving towards looking healthy, fresh and natural rather than looking “done.” People are becoming more interested in treatments that support skin quality, ideally with little or no downtime. The goal isn’t to stop ageing, it is to age well and maintain a healthy, natural appearance at every stage of life.”

The shift to regenerative interventions with treatments designed to work with the skin’s own biology rather than override it, is the present as well as future of skincare and anti-ageing. “Instead of simply masking the signs of ageing, the direction of aesthetic medicine is increasingly towards stimulating the skin’s own repair and collagen-producing mechanisms and improving its overall quality,” adds Sthalekar.

Doctor-Approved Treatments

According to Dr Kiran Sethi who is an American board certified skin and longevity expert, and the founder of Isya Aesthetics & Active Longevity, the latest treatments for a youthful appearance include everything from skin boosters and growth factor therapies to multi-modality facials. “The current paradigm has shifted from simply “freezing” the face to actively regenerating the skin and body from the inside out. Some of the most advanced treatments act as internal moisturisers and biostimulators for deep cellular regeneration. We inject high concentrations of hyaluronic acid or polynucleotides, deep into the dermis to stimulate collagen and elastin, thicken the skin, restore adipose-derived stem cells and strengthen the barrier, restoring true skin vitality rather than just filling lines,” she explains.

In another treatment, pure growth factors are derived from the patient’s own blood’s exosomes that stimulate deep cellular regeneration reducing wrinkles, under-eye circles and boosting hair growth, without any artificial additives. “By recalibrating one’s biological system to function like a younger body, metabolically and hormonally through full-body treatments, the skin naturally follows suit, becoming structurally firmer and more resilient,” opines Sethi.

A Holistic Approach

Those looking for something non-invasive in nature, treatments like red light therapy, cryotherapy, hyperbaric oxygen therapy (HBOT) and molecular hydrogen therapy (MHT) are great alternatives. “These can complement recovery, relaxation and overall wellbeing. Red light therapy is particularly popular for supporting skin vitality and radiance. Combining skin and beauty therapies with recovery and longevity treatments supports how you feel and function in a holistic manner,” says Ambastha.

High-intensity focussed ultrasound (HIFU) is a non-invasive treatment that Sthalekar suggests as it uses focused ultrasound energy to target deeper tissue planes and promote skin tightening. Stimulating collagen growth through heat, HIFU is often used for lifting and firming the skin on the face, neck and jawline. She warns, however, “No aesthetic treatment is completely risk-free and the outcome depends largely on the technology used and the expertise of the doctor. I would be cautious about any treatment that promises to “reverse ageing” or deliver dramatic results overnight. Ageing is a biological process and no procedure can permanently stop it.”

Lymphatic Drainage in the Limelight

Although not a new breakthrough, the importance of lymphatic drainage has surged largely on social media, with both doctors and beauty influencers advocating for it in huge numbers. Explains Sethi, “The lymphatic system is your body’s waste-disposal network, but it doesn’t have a pump and relies on muscle movement to flow. Lymphatic drainage stimulates the movement of lymph fluids to eliminate toxins and metabolic waste.” Using your hands or simple tools like a jade roller or gua sha, this can be easily performed on self to reap its benefits. “Lymphatic drainage dramatically reduces facial puffiness, snatches the jawline by draining stagnant fluid, reduces dark circles, clears up acne caused by sluggish toxin removal and helps minimise the appearance of cellulite and water retention,” she adds.

Those looking for deeper results, professional lymphatic drainage sessions can come in handy. Shares Ambastha, “At Fairmont we offer non-invasive lymphatic drainage treatment with G-VAC intermittent vacuum therapy (IVT). What makes this really interesting is that its technology is based on NASA-developed lower body negative-pressure technology originally used in the context of space travel. The treatment gently alternates pressure around the lower body and supports circulation as well as lymphatic flow.”

Bursting the Collagen Bubble

From supplements to creams, the market is flooded with products that promise to reverse the signs of ageing with regular use. But do these actually work? While Sthalekar believes collagen supplements are an interesting area as some clinical studies suggest that hydrolysed collagen peptides may improve skin hydration and elasticity, she also notes that the evidence is not completely consistent. She adds, “When we consume collagen, it gets digested into amino acids and peptides. It does not simply travel to the face and turn into collagen there. These building blocks are used by the body according to its needs.”

As for collagen creams, enlightens Sethi, “Collagen molecules are simply too large to penetrate the epidermis through topical creams. Sitting on the surface of your skin, they might offer temporary hydration but they will not replenish lost collagen. You are better off using collagen-stimulating ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and peptides for visible results.”

Making Skin Sense

Despite the advancements in science, doctors swear by basics such as sun protection, regular exercise, a nutritious diet, good sleep and a simple yet effective skincare routine.

“A good aesthetic treatment should be subtle and individualised. The objective isn’t to stop the clock, but to help one age well while continuing to look like themselves. That is the real direction of modern anti-ageing offerings,” concludes Sthalekar.