Black Dandyism And Why It’s The Heart Of Met Gala 2025 | EXPLAINED
'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style', this year’s Met Gala and Costume Institute showcase, highlights Black dandyism as a celebration of style, self-expression, and subversion
This spring, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute unveils ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’, a groundbreaking exhibition that charts the evolution of Black dandyism—from its radical roots in resistance to its vibrant presence on modern red carpets.
What Is Black Dandyism?
Black dandyism is a cultural and aesthetic practice that merges style, resistance, and identity. At its core, it’s the meticulous art of dressing as an act of rebellion and self-definition. While the term ‘dandy’ historically referred to a man obsessively concerned with elegance and clothes, Black dandyism elevates this idea with a deeper political edge—born from a history of enslavement, erasure, and aspiration.
The Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition’s guest curator, Monica Miller, describes it as an approach to ‘rethink identity’ and ‘push a boundary on who and what counts as human’. Miller rewrites fashion tales from the margins by shedding light on how enslaved Africans, who were previously seen as emblems of riches, embraced fashion as a vehicle for resistance and self-expression in her seminal book Slaves to Fashion.
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Met Gala 2025: The Theme of “Superfine”
This year’s Met Gala, taking place on May 5, 2025, serves as the kickoff for ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’. The public exhibition, which runs from May 10 to October 26, focuses on how Black dandyism has changed from the 18th century to the present. As the first exhibition to focus on menswear since 2003’s Men in Skirts and the first to include a guest curator under Andrew Bolton’s curatorial direction, it’s a daring decision on the part of the Costume Institute.
The theme is especially pertinent as Black males are incrementally pushing the boundaries of fashion, both on the runway and the red carpet. Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky, and Lewis Hamilton are among the most daring fashion luminaries who will co-chair the 2025 Met Gala as male co-chairs. Lebron James will serve as honorary co-chair. In the way they show themselves to the outside world, each one embodies a contemporary Black gentleman who combines innovation and tradition.
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A Historic Step Forward
‘Superfine’ isn’t just an exhibition—it’s a statement. It’s about visibility, legacy, and reclaiming the space Black style has always inhabited but rarely been acknowledged for in institutions like The Met.
Supported by Instagram, Louis Vuitton, and cultural icons like Tyler Perry and Africa Fashion International, the show reflects a larger dedication to historical redress and inclusivity. Notably, sculptor Tanda Francis and interdisciplinary artist Torkwase Dyson are contributing to the visual and spatial design, while artist Tyler Mitchell is taking photographs for the show catalogue.
According to Andrew Bolton, Black men and Black designers are largely responsible for the revival in menswear. He claims that they “remix tradition”. “They dissect it in incredibly novel ways.”
Want a closer look at some of the most iconic Black dandy moments?
A$AP Rocky, Met Gala 2023
Colman Domingo, Met Gala 2024
Lewis Hamilton, Met Gala 2024
Pharrell Williams in Louis Vuitton (as Creative Director)