“Collaborating With Artisans Fuels My Creativity,” Says Anita Dongre

Her designs may grace global icons, but her heart lies in the hands of India’s artisans. Few names in Indian fashion command the reverence and influence of Anita Dongre. As the visionary behind the House of Anita Dongre, she has redefined modern Indian luxury with her unwavering commitment to sustainability, craftsmanship, and inclusivity. With over 2,800 artisans supported through her foundation, and a wide network of retail touchpoints worldwide, including a bridal store in New York, Dongre oversees a thriving ecosystem of brands—AND, Global Desi, Grassroot, and Pink City by Anita Dongre. Each catering to a unique audience and defined by its own signature style, yet united by a common thread: a deep-rooted commitment to Indian craft. Grassroot, in particular, stands out as a quiet revolution—built to empower women artisans across Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, and Rajasthan, many of whom work within self-help groups.

Her couture—worn by the likes of Kate Middleton, Hillary Clinton, Beyoncé, and Sophie Turner—seamlessly blends traditional Indian artistry with contemporary silhouettes. From Bandhani and Benarasi to Ajrakh and Pichhwai, Dongre’s couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections revive age-old weaving and embroidery techniques while addressing modern sensibilities, creating a bridge between India’s rich textile heritage and the global luxury market.

Yet unfazed by her success and the international fanfare, Dongre remains deeply rooted in family and purpose. A true matriarch of Indian fashion, her creative clarity is matched only by a grounded sense of leadership that is not in your face. She continues to build her brand with the people closest to her—her son and daughter-in-law, her siblings, and her artisan family—blending personal trust with professional vision to create something far greater than fashion alone.

On a sunny March morning, I left the city behind and stepped into the enchanting world of Anita Dongre at her Rabale atelier, near Navi Mumbai. This sprawling sanctuary is a seamless blend of nature and craftsmanship—a lush, green retreat where sunlight filters through open corridors, a majestic peepul tree offers respite to artisans to pause during breaks, where birdsong is the only sound that lingers in the air, and where you can find every shade of green to inspire those who sew, stitch, paint, embroider inside. It’s a space that feels alive, much like Dongre’s creations, each woven with stories of nature’s raw beauty.

Eight years ago, Anita Dongre moved her atelier to this serene outpost, seeking distance from Mumbai’s chaos and creating a space that reflects her ethos of mindful, sustainable living. Surrounded by the gentle hum of nature, Dongre finds endless inspiration in the great outdoors—a force that informs both her design sensibility and her commitment to craft. Her landmark showcase in Jaipur, Rewild’23 collection, served as a powerful statement on conservation and co-existence to help raise funds and awareness towards nature and elephant conservation.

Inside, the atelier hums with quiet artistry. Artisans hand-embellish floral sequin saris with delicate precision, paint intricate sketches destined to become accessories and design elements, and embroider vibrant outfits at sewing machines. Nearby, designers sketch fresh silhouettes, ready to translate their ideas into fabric. Every corner speaks of detail, tradition, and a deep respect for heritage.

The House of Anita Dongre is deeply committed to traditional craftsmanship, consistently working with 11-12 heritage techniques—from Bandhani and Benarasi to Ajrakh, hand-painted Tantipara, age-old Pichhwai, Gota Patti, and many more.

A walk through the expansive hall that showcases the many crafts at play within the House is nothing short of mesmerising. We spent time taking in the collections—running our fingers over the weaves, tracing delicate embroideries—each piece an ode to India’s rich textile heritage, rooted deeply in tradition yet envisioned for a global stage with her innate sense of style.

Next, we were treated to an exclusive preview of Vaana, the brand’s Spring-Summer ’25 couture line which brings to life the vivid moods of a forest. Romantic and whimsical, the line blooms in soft watercolours with nature as its ever-present muse. Think parakeets and flamingos, swaying palms, gentle deer, tropical flora, and spring blossoms—all brought to life on ethereal fabrics like organza, delicate silks, and whisper-light chiffons. It’s a collection that wears summer on its sleeve.

Staying true to Dongre’s enduring love for craft, each motif is either meticulously hand-painted or embroidered—featuring the 400-year-old art of Pichhwai alongside her signature Gota Patti embroidery. These intricate details adorn everything from bridalwear staples to versatile contemporary silhouettes: fluid saris, tailored co-ord sets, layered skirts, corset blouses, kurta sets, and structured jackets—each designed for celebratory occasions that call for something truly special and very wearable and comfortable like all her designs.

The day concluded with a scrumptious lunch and freewheeling conversation with Anita Dongre and her son, Yash Dongre, leaving us inspired, full, and unable to stop thinking about the beauty and craftsmanship we had just witnessed.

In an exclusive conversation, we ask Dongre more about her creative process, business philosophy, and the evolution of Indian fashion on the global stage.

Edited Excerpts

Inside the World of Anita Dongre: An Exclusive Interview

Q: As we got a peek into the Anita Dongre atelier for the first time, why did you think it was the right time to open this space and show how the world of Anita Dongre is created, given that many fashion designers don’t really open their factories to the public?

Anita Dongre: This collection represents the ethos of our atelier in so many ways. Being surrounded by nature, my creativity thrives. I felt our headquarters was the perfect backdrop to showcase not just the Vaana by Anita Dongre collection, but also the incredible people and teams that bring our designs to life every day. It’s always wonderful to offer a behind-the-scenes look at our world and see the personal side to things.

Q: Through your long journey, you have championed fashion for a cause. Why is it important for you to do so—whether it’s saving the wild, sustainable fashion, or reviving heritage weaves?

Anita Dongre: I believe in work that creates an impact. Using fashion as a tool for empowerment gives me purpose and fuels me. Our brand philosophy has always been ‘Fashion for Good.’ We bring this to life by empowering our master artisans, preserving Indian crafts, uplifting rural women, and making fashion kind to people, the planet, and animals.

Q: In recent years, you’ve taken bold steps—showcasing ‘Rewild’ in Jaipur, expanding into the Middle East, and collaborating with Barbie as the first Indian designer to do so. Which of these achievements has been the most fulfilling, and what’s your vision for the brand?

Anita Dongre: Each achievement has been fulfilling in its own way. Our mission remains to revive Indian craftsmanship in contemporary ways, empower artisans, and make fashion ethical. Projects that create a positive social impact always hold a special place in my heart.

Q: You have designed for influential women like Kate Middleton and Hillary Clinton. How does it feel to have such powerful women wear your creations, and what defines your brand?

Anita Dongre: Our designs are for the self-assured, confident woman who is global in her mindset yet deeply rooted in her identity. All the women who have worn our brand reflect these qualities. I feel happy that through my work, I am able to make women feel empowered and take Indian craftsmanship to the world.

Q: What inspires your creative process at the House of Anita Dongre? How do you continually introduce different arts into your collections?

Anita Dongre: Since I was young, it has always been important for me to pause, reflect, and recalibrate; find my true north. Being in nature fuels my creativity, this is also the reason why I moved my office to Rabale (the outskirts of Navi Mumbai), which is surrounded by greens. It energises my team as well to think better. I believe inspiration and art is everywhere—we just have to look.

Q: With several Indian brands now making international appearances at red carpets, fashion shows and at other global events, what are your thoughts on Indian fashion being recognised globally?

Anita Dongre: It’s about time. India has always been viewed as a manufacturing hub, but there’s incredible design talent in the country in addition to exquisite craftsmanship. I feel proud seeing Indian fashion making its mark globally. We strive everyday towards this mission by reinterpreting Indian crafts for the modern woman, and our global collaborations like the first-ever Barbie signature Diwali Doll, and opening stores overseas are our steps in this directions. Through the Barbie Diwali doll, it was our way to showcase India’s vibrant cultural heritage on a global stage while continuing to celebrate the power and beauty of diversity.

Q: Sustainability is your core ethos, how do you manage to be a successful sustainable brand?

Anita Dongre: Sustainability has always been at the heart of what we do—even in how we designed our headquarters. Our 100,000 sq. ft. workspace optimises natural light, composts waste, recycles water, and serves only vegetarian meals. We’ve never used animal products like wool, fur, or leather. Our goal is to be kind to people, the planet, and animals.

Q: You lead a minimalist lifestyle. How do you reconcile that with creating lavish bridal couture?

Anita Dongre: Minimalism and mindfulness guide my approach to life and design. Even in our bridal collections, each piece is handcrafted with patience and meant to be re-worn beyond the wedding. Our materials are 100% vegan and cruelty-free. Lavish doesn’t have to mean wasteful.

Q: What do you love most about working with Indian crafts, and are there any new ones you’re exploring at the Anita Dongre atelier?

Anita Dongre: We are an India-proud brand, deeply passionate about sustaining and reinterpreting Indian crafts for modern consumers. Collaborating with artisans fuels my creativity. We’re always searching for hidden gems in India’s textile heritage and reinventing them in contemporary silhouettes. There’s a lot more to come!