Crafted By Hand: Inside Gaurang Shah’s World Of Jamdani Masterpieces

Stepping into the weaving village of Srikakulam in Andhra Pradesh was like entering a world far removed from fast fashion. Time here seems to move slowly, moving in harmony with the clattering of the handlooms. We were invited by Indian designer Gaurang Shah to experience the beauty and intricacy of the Jamdani, the ancient weaving technique, originating in the erstwhile Bengal province. Primarily associated with the Dhaka and Tangail regions of Bangladesh and the Shantipur and Dhonekali regions of West Bengal, wearing a handloom Jamdani is like wearing a piece of art.

Shah, known for his reverence for traditional textiles and craftsmanship, has taken Jamdani to new heights, preserving its age-old techniques while introducing contemporary artistry including colour combinations and design innovations. Best known for his design repertoire that includes heritage textiles like Ikats, Kanjeevarams and Uppadas, Jamdanis, and more, Shah has also won the National Film Award for Best Costume Design for the Telugu film ‘Mahanati’ in 2019 and more recently has received great appreciation for dressing up Radhika Apte as a Dalit bride in Made in Heaven.

A glimpse into his atelier reveals the striking craftsmanship of each handwoven piece, each requiring a minimum of a year to complete—explaining why he does not take bridal orders. As the festive season draws close, we put the spotlight on the exquisite weave, a labour of love that embodies artistry and tradition.

Patience Meets Precision

As we enter the looms and watch the artisans painstakingly weave vibrant silk threads into intricate motifs, Shah explains where the process begins. “It begins with selecting the finest quality yarns, typically cotton, which form the base of this fabric. The yarn is carefully dyed using natural colours, which are often derived from local plants and minerals, ensuring a rich and vibrant palette that remains true to traditional methods.”

The textile-revivalist points out that the true complexity of Jamdani lies in its signature technique known as supplementary weft weaving. Unlike other weaves, where weave patterns are pre-designed, Jamdani motifs are directly woven on the fabric—often without any stencils or mechanical assistance. “Creating a Jamdani sari is like painting with thread,” he describes. “We start with detailed sketches that guide the artisans, but the real magic happens when the weavers bring their own creativity, and intuition into the process,” he adds.

Rooted In Community

At the heart of these exquisite saris is an also a growing community of skilled women artisans. “We’ve grown from 20 looms to over 160. Every new weaver undergoes months of training. We focus not just on the technical skills but on nurturing a deep respect for the tradition,” explains the designer. While the women begin by learning the fundamentals like warp and weft and setting up the loom, Shah encourages them to explore their creative expression which translates into innovation in these traditional techniques and patterns.

Something Old, Something New

As Shah pushes the boundaries of the craft, his experiments often yield stunning results. Traditionally, Jamdani features floral and geometric motifs, but his Raja Ravi Verma series took it further by weaving the well-known works of paintings into saris. “Each painting had to be meticulously translated into thread—a process that took years.” The result? Wearable masterpieces that blur the lines between art and fashion.

Choosing Your Jamdani

When you’re looking to add to your collection, how do you guarantee the authenticity of these heirloom-worthy pieces? Shah recommends choosing high quality cotton or silk that ensures that the sari will drape well and last for years. A rule of thumb is the material should feel smooth yet sturdy.

“Genuine Jamdani saris are distinguished by the clarity of their motifs, often depicting traditional flora or geometric patterns. Check for consistency in the weave, ensuring that the design is sharp and meticulously detailed. Machine-made versions may mimic the look but lack the intricate, hand-done artistry that defines Jamdani,” explains the designer. Last but not the least, he believes it’s those finishing touches that are key – such as neatly-finished edges and smooth transitions that reflect the weaver’s skill and also the sari’s overall quality.

How To Style Your Jamdani

The refined elegance of Jamdani sari makes it the perfect choice for the festive season. Here are some styling tips from the master himself.

For a modern, festive look, consider pairing your Jamdani sari with a structured blouse—an off-shoulder or crop top style can offer a trendy contrast to the sari’s traditional motifs.

Experiment with different styles of sari draping—try a belt or a high-waisted drape to give it a contemporary silhouette.

Minimalist jewellery and modern footwear can further elevate the look without overwhelming the intricacy of the sari. As the designer puts it: “The key is to let the craftsmanship shine—withJamdani, less is often more.” We couldn’t agree more!