“Maximalism In My Designs Is To Celebrate Individuality & Make A Statement”: Mayyur Girotra

It is Mayyur Girotra’s second year of showcasing his collection in New York for the New York City Pride 2024. This year’s gender-neutral collection, Ride to Pride, symbolised inclusivity, freedom, pride, self-acceptance, and change within the LQBTQ+ community.

“My Pride 2024 collection is a tribute to the resilience and creativity of this community, and it reflects my passion for using fashion as a tool for social change,” he says of this year’s collection. The show was held at the iconic Rockefeller Centre in New York and featured a cast of 35 LQBTQ+ community members and supporters, none of whom were professional models.

Girotra’s journey into the world of fashion is the perfect analogy of ‘the heart wants what the heart wants.’ In his 20s, despite always having a passion for design, he chose a career in wealth management and investment banking in Dubai for a decade. However, a turning point arrived in his 30s, igniting a passion to pursue a lifelong dream of becoming a designer. With the support of his mother, aunts, and their networks, he began with capsule collections and private showcases. Over the past decade, his brand has grown exponentially. Today, Mayyur Girotra Couture has a global presence with flagship stores in Delhi and New Jersey, shop-in-shops in New York and San Francisco, and stockists in London and the UAE.

His design aesthetic uses vibrant colours, traditional applique and needlework inspired by Gujarat and Rajasthan, but it is the silhouettes and structures that keep the ensembles rooted firmly in the present. And his illustrious clients include actors Kriti Sanon, Aditi Rao Hydari, Ayushmann Khurana and Shilpa Shetty, amongst others.

We spoke to him after his successful showcase of ‘Ride to Pride’ collection.

Edited excerpts:

1. What inspired you to start designing for Pride and what it personally means to you?

I have always believed that fashion is a powerful form of self-expression and a way to tell stories that sometimes words cannot. Designing for Pride was inspired by my deep commitment to inclusivity and the celebration of diversity. Personally, it means supporting the LGBTQA+ community by creating pieces that not only showcase their unique identities, but also highlight the beauty of love and acceptance.

2. How does your collection blend traditional Indian textiles with global styles?

My collection is a vibrant tapestry where traditional Indian textiles and techniques meet contemporary global styles. I use upcycled sustainable silks and linen with bolt Kutch embroidery, and traditional dyeing methods from India, infusing them with modern silhouettes and avant-garde designs. This fusion creates a unique aesthetic that honours our rich heritage while making a statement on the global fashion stage. By combining these elements I want to appeal to a diverse audience, bridge cultural gaps and create a dialogue between the past and the present.

3. Your designs are maximalist, how do you see them in an environment where minimalism and quiet luxury are becoming popular?

Maximalism in my designs is about celebrating individuality and making bold statements. In an environment where minimalism and quiet luxury are becoming popular, my maximalist approach offers an alternative that resonates with those, who seek to express their personality and stand out. Fashion is cyclical and there’s always room for diverse aesthetics. Maximalism brings a sense of joy, opulence, and exuberance, appealing to those who embrace life in its full vibrancy. It complements the minimalist trend by offering a rich, contrasting palette for fashion enthusiasts.

4. What’s your favourite Indian craft to work with?

This is a difficult one! I am an India-proud boy and love each and every craft, but that I have to pick one, my favourite Indian craft to work with has always been Kutch embroidery- layers of colours and mirrors – patchworks have always fascinated me. The traditional Kutch crafts represent the pinnacle of Indian artistry, with their detailed and delicate workmanship. I love incorporating these elements into my designs blending them with contemporary styles to create pieces that are both timeless and modern. Moreover, working with these crafts not only supports local artisans, but also helps preserve our rich cultural heritage.

5. How is the spirit of inclusivity expressed in your design for the ‘Ride To Pride’ Collection?

Inclusivity is at the heart of the ‘Ride To Pride’ Collection. This is expressed through the diversity of models representing a spectrum of genders, body types, and identities. The designs themselves are gender-fluid, with versatile pieces that can be styled in multiple ways, ensuring that everyone can find something that resonates with their personal style. The use of a wide colour palette inspired by the Pride flag and the celebration of individuality through customisable elements further underscore the spirit of inclusivity.

6. How have you blurred the lines between traditional dressing and impeccable design? What are the key highlights of this year’s collection?

Blurring the lines between traditional dressing and impeccable design involves reinterpreting classic Indian attire with a contemporary twist. This year’s collection features key highlights such as sarees with modern drapes, lehengas paired with structured blazers and caps, kurtas with trench coats. Each piece is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring the ethos and language of our brand are intact, while pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion norms.

7. How do you intend to take your Pride-inspired collection beyond Pride Month?

While Pride Month is a significant time for celebration, my commitment to the LGBTQA+ community extends throughout the year. We sell the collection throughout the year. Our team travels with it to different cities and countries to do pop-ups. Additionally, we plan to collaborate with LGBTQA+ artists and influencers to continuously promote inclusivity and awareness. This collection is about creating a lasting change and visibility for the community, far beyond a single month.

8. What keeps drawing you back to New York? And when do you intend to showcase your Pride collections in India?

New York is a melting pot of cultures and ideas, and, a place where creativity knows no bounds. The city’s vibrant energy, diversity, and openness to new ideas keep drawing me back. It’s an ideal platform to showcase my work to a global audience. I am also eager to bring my Pride collections to India, where the fashion industry is witnessing a significant shift towards inclusivity. I plan to organise a showcase in major Indian cities soon, where I can celebrate and support the local LGBTQA+ community.

9. In the current scenario, where several big fashion houses are seeing a change in direction with top creative heads exiting, do you think fashion today and in the future will continue to be a medium for dialogue and change?

Absolutely. Fashion has always been a reflection of societal shifts and, today more than ever, it is a medium for dialogue and change. As creative leaders exit traditional roles, new voices and perspectives are emerging, bringing fresh ideas and challenges.

10. What are your thoughts on whether Indian fashion representation on the global platform is getting its due visibility?

Indian fashion is gradually gaining the visibility it deserves on the global platform thanks to the efforts of designers who are pushing boundaries and celebrating our rich heritage. However, there is still a long way to go. Increased representation and recognition can be achieved through more international collaborations, participation in global fashion weeks and consistent showcasing of our diverse crafts and techniques. By continuing to innovate and share our unique stories, Indian fashion is securing its rightful place on the global stage.