Chef Sameer Taneja: ‘Cooking Indian Food Abroad Calls For A Thoughtful Balance Between Authenticity And Local Tastes’

While India may be bereft of a Michelin Star, there are several restaurants owned by the Indian diaspora around the world that have the guide raving about it. Chefs such as Atul Kocchar and Gaggan Anand come to mind, who have pushed the envelope as far as Indian cuisine is concerned. One of them is Benares in Mayfair London. Named after Varanasi, India’s sacred city, Benares beautifully captures the harmony between tradition and modernity. Benares received its Michelin Star in 2021, in part owing to its Executive Chef Sameer Taneja, who has been responsible for its reputation of serving modern Indian cuisine, with a combination of local ingredients, French techniques and Indian flavours. Outlook Luxe caught up with him for a conversation while Benares was showcasing in India for a popup at Indian Accent, Delhi.

Do you have to approach Indian food with a different lens while cooking in a different country?

Cooking Indian food abroad calls for a thoughtful balance between authenticity and local tastes. As a chef, my aim is to stay true to the rich heritage of Indian cuisine, while thoughtfully adapting it to suit the ingredients and culinary culture of the place I’m in.

At Benares, for example, I bring together traditional Indian spices and cooking techniques with fresh, locally sourced British ingredients. This blend allows me to create imaginative dishes that feel both familiar and exciting to our guests.

For me, it’s all about honouring the deep roots of Indian flavours while welcoming a spirit of creativity. I use spices to complement rather than overpower, and I rely on seasonal produce to bring a sense of freshness and vibrancy to each plate.

In doing so, I’m able to share the essence of Indian cuisine in a way that feels warm, approachable, and wonderfully contemporary where tradition meets innovation on every plate.

Benares has been decorated with the Michelin star. How was the process of selection like?

Earning a Michelin star for Benares was both a challenging and deeply rewarding journey. For me, it was all about making sure each dish truly showcased the passion, care, and precision that go into our cooking.

At Benares, we celebrate inventive Indian cuisine with a modern British flair—bringing together the finest ingredients, traditional spices, and contemporary techniques to create something truly special.

Holding onto that star takes constant creativity and a wholehearted commitment to excellence. It’s not just about receiving the honour it’s about maintaining it through consistency, hard work, and a genuine love for what we do. Our goal is to deliver exceptional dining experiences, day in and day out, for every guest who walks through our doors.

How many dishes have you brought back from the restaurant for the popup?

For our pop-up at Indian Accent, we’re delighted to bring back a selection of dishes that truly reflect the inventive Indian cuisine Benares is known for. On the menu, you’ll find favourites like our sour apple pani puri, refreshing fruit chaat, samosa ragda tartlet, and traditional Rajasthani gatte.

For the main course, we’re serving our much-loved goat’s milk paneer tikka, and to finish on a sweet note, there’s a scoop of creamy chikoo ice cream. We can’t wait to share these flavours with you!

Why did you choose Indian accent for the popup?

I chose Indian Accent for this pop-up because it felt like a natural and meaningful partnership. As outlined in the attached document, this marks the very first time Benares is bringing its dishes to India a truly special milestone for us.

Indian Accent shares a kindred philosophy: celebrating the depth of traditional Indian flavours while embracing innovation. Collaborating with Chef Shantanu has been a real pleasure and creatively inspiring we both strive to elevate the dining experience in thoughtful, engaging ways.

Partnering with a restaurant that values storytelling through food gives us the perfect platform to honour India’s rich culinary heritage. For me, this is about more than just a menu; it’s about sharing my roots and culinary journey with a home audience in a way that feels personal, heartfelt, and memorable.

Is your audience mostly a desi diaspora, or otherwise?

At Benares Mayfair, our audience is wonderfully diverse. While we do welcome many guests from the desi diaspora who are looking for a taste of home with a refined, contemporary twist, a significant portion of our diners are international and British guests who are curious about Indian cuisine presented in a fresh, innovative way.

Our approach blending traditional Indian flavours with modern British influences has really resonated with a global audience. Whether someone is deeply familiar with Indian food or discovering it for the first time, we aim to create a dining experience that feels both welcoming and exciting. It’s about storytelling through food, and that has a universal appeal.

Do give us a bit of history behind you becoming a part of this restaurant.

My journey to joining Benares began with a deep passion for blending classic European techniques with the vibrant flavours of my Indian heritage. After refining my skills in French cuisine under mentors like Pierre Koffmann, I came to realise that my heart truly belonged to Indian cooking.

That realisation led me to Benares where I saw the perfect opportunity to craft imaginative dishes that celebrate both traditions. Over the years, I’ve worked to bring a sense of cultural harmony to the menu, with creations like our goat’s milk paneer tikka, which beautifully balances British ingredients with the warmth and complexity of Indian spices.

Benares isn’t just a restaurant to me it’s a reflection of my roots, my experiences, and a journey that continues to evolve through every plate we serve.

Favourite places to eat in London?

Some of my favourite restaurants in London include Sabor, Darjeeling Express, Trinity, Hide, The Cinnamon Club and The Grill at the Dorchester. Each offers something special—whether it’s the vibrant flavours, innovative dishes, or simply the fantastic dining experience. I always look forward to visiting these places.

Thoughts on having a presence in India?

Having a presence in India feels incredibly special almost like coming full circle. Benares has always been about celebrating Indian cuisine in a way that blends tradition with modernity and bringing that journey back to its roots is truly meaningful for me.

India is where my love for food began, so being able to share the Benares experience here, for the very first time, feels deeply personal. It’s a chance to reconnect, to showcase how Indian flavours can evolve while still honouring their origins, and to engage with a home audience in a fresh and exciting way. It’s more than just a pop-up it’s a heartfelt celebration of where it all started.

What do you think of India’s fine dining scenario?

India’s fine-dining scene is incredibly exciting right now, with chefs pushing boundaries and giving Indian cuisine a fresh, modern twist while staying true to our rich culinary heritage. What excites me most is how traditional flavours are being blended with innovative techniques to create unforgettable experiences. India has become a top food destination, attracting chefs from all over the world and the energy and creativity in the industry make it an exciting place to be.