Set In The Lap Of Nature, This Farmstay Offers Luxury For The Soul

As an unabashed hedonist my travels are often governed by the kind of hotels a destination offers, and in that regard, Aurangabad had not excited me so far. This was until I learnt about Dhyaana Farms, a soulful retreat set amidst lush hills of the Deccan Plateau where I was now headed. Surrounded by farms, adorned with native trees, shrubs, creepers, and home to a variety of birds, bees, cows, even rescued horses and dogs, the property offered a refreshing change from my usual jaunts, and I was looking forward to spending some quiet time here, away from the hustle of the city life.

Co-founded by travel professionals, Sahaj Sharma and Aparna Phalnikar, Dhyaana Farms opened its doors two years ago with its first — and most prestigious — guest, Hillary Clinton. “Hillary had travelled with us before and when she learnt about the upcoming farmstay, she insisted on staying here on her visit to Aurangabad,” co-founder Sahaj Sharma had informed me earlier. He had also narrated how they had to race against time to complete the work. While I had believed him, I was unsure of what made it so special that Clinton gave up five-star comfort to stay at a farm. I would soon find out.

I reached the farmstay after about an hour long drive from the airport—a part of which was spent off-roading through a narrow farm road that I had surprisingly enjoyed—and was welcomed warmly by both founders with a chilled rose scented towel and refreshing drink flavoured with homegrown lemongrass. While I had seen pictures of the place (don’t we all!) nothing could match the serenity that I now witnessed.Walking to my room, I heard crickets sing, frogs croak and  saw the sky turn mauve and pink behind a large rocky hill.

Made with natural materials my room was delightfully minimal yet luxurious. Mud plastered walls had kept the space cool, organic cotton bed linen was soft and comfortable, stone flooring and poster beds added to its charm and hand woven rugs added warmth. All my life I had imagined farms to be basic, but my residence, which came with its private verandah, was proving me wrong.

As a serial traveller, luxury to me means a place that has throught through tiniest of details and there were plenty here — a handcrafted phone holder-cum-speaker on the desk, freshly ground coffee along with a french press and homemade butter biscuits on the console,  handmade ceramic cups and jute coasters on the side table, hand knitted quilt in the cupboard and a shiny brass bucket in the bath. It was clear that Sharma and Phalnikar had poured their hearts into making the space homely and warm.

“The idea behind building the stay was not only to offer a space for the discerning traveller but also to give back to the community,” Phalnikar tells me over dinner. Both Sharma and her grew up in Maharashtra and witnessed the struggles of the communities in the region that depends on agriculture, and is often affected by severe droughts. “We were sure that whatever we do, we will not strain the resources any more than they already were. So, we built our own solar power system, water filtration plant, grew most of our food, milked our own cows and employed only locals at the farm,” she explains.

Today, the entire place runs on solar power, recycled water, and grows almost all of its food and gets its fresh dairy from Gir cows that have been here for five years. The duo has also trained local men and women for service, housekeeping and running the farmstay like clockwork. Our dinner under the stars showcases how well they have adapted. One young man plays jazz on Marshall speakers, another explains the types of wines he has for us, the third oversees the seamless dinner service — one that can compete with the biggest of hotels.

The true luxury of living on the farm however was revealed to me next morning, when refreshed by a good night’s sleep, I was woken by birdsong in my backyard. The sun had just risen and the entire garden glimmered with dewdrops. Strains of morning ragas reverberated in the air even as a koel sang nearby. To a city dweller, there was no bigger luxury than this. Being away from the city has not prevented Dhyaana Farms from offering the choicest of dining options for its guests and the breakfast was just another example of that. I started my meal with locally grown dragon fruit and freshly squeezed orange juice, followed it with homemade croissants, cake, toast and a delicious free-range egg omelette with cheese and chives. Washing it off with coffee on the hammock and overlooking the farm is a memory I am going to cherish forever.

While I wanted to look at the greens and hear the birdsong all day, being just minutes away from the majestic Ellora temple complex, I knew I could not miss the chance to visit.

Tucked into the rugged hills of Deccan Plateau, Ellora Caves were built between the 6th and 10th century and belong to the oldest UNESCO listing in India along with Ajanta caves. The central structure, the Kailasa temple, is an architectural wonder carved from a single rock and a site I always wanted to visit. A private guided tour arranged by my hosts ensured I had an insider’s view and I could witness beyond the touristy parts of the complex. I learnt about the creation of the temple, the nuances of art and architecture, and the stories of the caves that surround it. The landscape—lush, quiet, and untouched— incidentally reminded me of the homestay! A quick stop at the nearby Paithani sari weaving center offered insight into the age-old craft of the region. While my guide and driver offered to visit the nearby Grishneshwar temple, looking at the long queue of devotees I decided to pay my respect from outside.

By the time I returned, birds had begun retreating but the sun was yet to set. Making the most of the opportunity, I decided to get onto the machan that overlooks the farm, the large hill, the gazebo and my room. My hosts showed me a photo of the place when they had acquired this land — dry, dusty and raw, it was a far cry from the lush greenery I now witnessed. They also pointed to the silhouette of the caves I had just visited and shared how when they came here, the view was undisturbed, but now temple often hides behind the growing trees. We decided to climb the hill next morning for a better view and a picnic befrore returning to the gazebo for coffee.

Located in the center of a pond used for storing rain water, the gazebo offered sweeping views of the setting sun and I watched the sky put up a show — orange, pink, mauve, violet, the shades of the sunset were as speldid as the songs of crickets and glimmer of fireflies around me. I was glad I have two more days to soak in this beauty. In no time the team served a spendid spread — freshly baked cookies, hot dhoklas and crisp pakodas. As I sat there sipping a cup of hot coffee, munching a cookie and living totally in the moment, I realised how true luxury can also be found beyond the four walls of a hotel room — and Dhyaana Farms was the perfect example of that.