Sotheby’s Geneva Auction Makes History With Record-Breaking Luxury Watch Sales

Geneva has always understood time. On the shores of its lake, where fine watchmaking took root centuries ago, the ballroom of the Mandarin Oriental filled with collectors from around the world, some in the saleroom, others on telephone lines and screens, all bound by the same quiet hunger for the extraordinary. Paddles rose, estimates fell behind and, lot after lot, the numbers climbed. Hot on the heels of Hong Kong, where Sotheby’s delivered the highest total for a watch sale in its history and the most valuable watch auction ever held in Asia, the Important Watches Sale in Geneva broke through the $30 million mark. Record participation for a Sotheby’s watch auction in Geneva set the pace. More than 40% of sold lots surpassed their high estimates, more than 98% sold within or above estimate, and every lot found a buyer save one. Here is a look at the watches at the heart of the sale.

Patek Philippe Sky-Moon Tourbillon, Reference 5002

Among the most ambitious wristwatches ever made, the Sky-Moon Tourbillon is a double-dialed piece in 18k yellow gold with twelve complications. They include a tourbillon, minute repeating on cathedral gongs, a perpetual calendar, retrograde date, sky chart, moon phases, orbit display and sidereal time. Circa 2007, the 43.5 mm watch has an opaline white front dial and a reverse with a celestial map. It is powered by the manual-winding calibre RTO 27 QR SID LU CL with 55 jewels. The case, dial and movement are signed, and the watch comes with a Certificate of Origin, a COSC report, a leather binder and its presentation box. The model was sold at USD 2.7 million.

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George Daniels Millennium

The star of the sale in numbers, this 37 mm 18k yellow gold Millennium fetched more than twice its high estimate and a new auction record for the reference in yellow gold. The eccentric silvered guilloché dial carries gold inlaid, brushed chapter rings, one for hours and one for date, with George Daniels signed on cartouches flanking the date ring. Inside beats an automatic movement with a gilt brass slim co-axial escapement and engraved foliate decoration, visible through a sapphire display back. The crown sits between 7 and 8 o’clock, and a gold pin buckle completes it. The model was sold at USD 1.7 million.

F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe Ruthenium

Distinctive and dark, this F.P. Journe pairs a 40 mm platinum case with a ruthenium-on-white-gold dial. The sapphire display back, secured by six screws, reveals the automatic calibre 1300, a ruthenium-plated brass movement with 36 jewels. A platinum F.P. Journe folding clasp closes the strap. The case, dial and movement are signed, and the watch comes with its certificate dated 7 September 2004, the original invoice, an instruction manual, a loupe, a polishing cloth, a bracelet tool and a presentation box. The model was sold at USD 1.4 million.

Urban Jürgensen Reference 2

Quiet and classical, the Reference 2 is housed in an 18k pink gold case measuring 37.8 mm, with a snap-on case back. Its gilt guilloché dial offers the kind of hand-engraved texture collectors prize, and inside runs the automatic calibre E.A. 27-50 with 35 jewels. The case, dial and movement are signed, and an 18k pink gold Urban Jürgensen folding clasp holds the strap in place. It comes with a Certificate of Origin, an instruction manual and a service invoice dated May 2018. The combination of restraint and craft makes it a prized piece for lovers of independent watchmaking. The model was sold at USD 436,000.

Cartier Crash

The Crash is one of the most celebrated shapes in Cartier’s history, and this version is crafted in 18k white gold and set with diamonds. Measuring 25 by 38 mm, its case has a back secured by four screws, and the silvered dial sits within a distinctive, melted form. A jewelled, manual-winding movement powers it, and an 18k white gold deployant clasp closes the strap. The case, dial and movement are signed, and the watch comes with a Cartier travel pouch and a presentation box. The model was sold at USD 311,000

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement “The Jungle Book”

Here, haute horlogerie meets storytelling. The 44.5 mm stainless steel case has a sapphire display back secured by six screws, and the dial is 18k white gold with deep relief engraving, signed by MB&F and Jaquet. Inside is the manual-winding calibre LM SE with 35 jewels, signed by MB&F and Stephen McDonnell, and the watch closes with a stainless steel MB&F double folding clasp. The accompanying set is unusually generous: a warranty, instruction manual, leather document holder, a drawing of the dial in a leather roll, a Loupe System loupe, two branded caps, a book and a presentation box. The model was sold at USD 233,000

Breguet Classique Tourbillon

This Breguet Classique Tourbillon is signed on the case, dial and movement, and its documentation tells a story of its own. It comes with a handwritten “Made For” certificate, an individual invoice, an instruction manual, personal correspondence with David Roscoe and a George Daniels presentation box. These associations give it a rare provenance, linking one of the great names of English watchmaking with a tourbillon from the house of Breguet. The model was sold at USD 116,000

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, Reference 116599

Sparkling and rare, this circa 2005 Daytona is crafted in 18k white gold and set with diamonds and rubies, with a diamond-set dial. The 40 mm case houses the automatic calibre 4130, with 44 jewels, behind a screw-down case back. An 18k white gold Rolex folding clasp completes the look. The case, dial and movement are signed, and the watch comes with its warranty, original invoice, COSC hang tag, numbered hang tag, instruction manual, presentation box and outer packaging. It is a piece where sporting heritage meets full jewellery. The model was sold at USD 124,000