Paris Fashion Week: Chanel, Gabriela Hearst and Zimmermann Bring a New Mood to SS27

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 is closing with three distinct visions of modern dressing. Chanel, Gabriela Hearst and Zimmermann each took a different route, moving between liberated house codes, heritage craftsmanship and the transformative beauty of nature. Their October 5 collections added three contrasting moods to an already varied SS27 season.

The shows also highlighted how designers are approaching the idea of luxury for the coming season. Rather than following a single dominant silhouette, the collections placed emphasis on movement, intricate workmanship, expressive prints and clothes that carry a strong point of view.

Chanel Takes Flight

At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy continued to loosen the house’s familiar codes with a collection that felt youthful, playful and deliberately free-spirited. The Grand Palais was transformed with a giant moon, luminous birds and a futuristic floor, creating an otherworldly setting for the Chanel SS27 show.

Tweed, one of the maison’s most recognisable signatures, appeared in fresh iterations, including wide windowpane patterns and striking red-and-white tiger prints. Sheer skirt suits, fluid dresses and pleated minis brought a lighter attitude to the traditional Chanel wardrobe, while cropped jackets and exposed midriffs added a contemporary edge.

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The accessories followed suit. Animal-print two-tone pumps, chunky logo sandals and quilted bags gave the collection a playful finish, while the familiar Chanel vocabulary remained visible beneath the experimentation. Blazy’s latest offering retained the house’s identity without making nostalgia its central point.

Nature and Craft Unite

Gabriela Hearst took a distinctly artisanal direction for her Gabriela Hearst SS27 collection, drawing on Afghanistan’s textile traditions and the work of women artisans. Developed partly with Afghan craftspeople through the non-profit Turquoise Mountain, the collection brought techniques including ikat patchwork, shisha mirror embroidery and artisan-painted details into a refined Paris wardrobe.
Pomegranate motifs appeared alongside linen tailoring, dresses and embellished pieces, creating a dialogue between traditional craft and contemporary dressing. Hearst also continued her focus on considered materials, including silk trench coats treated with a natural resin as an alternative to petroleum-based nylon.

Zimmermann offered a more fantastical interpretation of Spring Summer 2027 fashion with “Kaleidoscope”, a collection inspired by butterflies, transformation and the fleeting qualities of nature. Presented at Le Carreau du Temple, the show translated the motif into dimensional prints, appliqué, embellished accessories and flowing silhouettes.

Lemon, butter yellow, chartreuse and earthy tones gave the collection a vivid palette, while butterfly wings appeared across tops, skirts and bags. Delicate imagery was balanced by elaborate construction and movement, giving the Zimmermann SS27 collection a sense of fantasy without losing its recognisable femininity.

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The three collections point to a broader direction for Paris Fashion Week SS27, where personal expression, craftsmanship and movement take centre stage. Chanel’s liberated take on its signatures, Hearst’s celebration of Afghan craftsmanship and Zimmermann’s dreamlike naturalism offer three distinct interpretations of modern luxury for Spring Summer 2027.