Paris Fashion Week SS27 opened on September 28 with a mix of emerging talent, established young labels and a significant debut. The first day of the Spring/Summer 2027 season featured eight scheduled shows and presentations, with Julie Kegels opening the official runway calendar at 2:30 pm, followed by Weinsanto and Maxhosa Africa later in the afternoon.
For the opening day, the focus moved beyond the major houses to designers bringing distinct cultural references, experimental silhouettes and personal ideas to the Paris runway. Among the Paris Fashion Week Day One highlights were Kegels’ exploration of gravity, Weinsanto’s irreverent fashion language and Maxhosa Africa’s landmark arrival on the official calendar.
Julie Kegels Opens Paris
Belgian designer Julie Kegels opened the Paris Fashion Week SS27 shows with her sixth collection, staged at the Philharmonie de Paris. Fresh off winning the 2026 LVMH Prize, Kegels built the collection around gravity, translating the idea of falling into silhouettes, fabrics and movement.
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The concept appeared through low-slung skirts, dropped armholes and garments that seemed to slide down the body. Draped fabrics, embroidery, pigments suspended between layers of organza and moving brass fragments added to the sense of weight and motion. Some pieces were also designed to be transformed, with bands and buttons allowing garments such as shirts, blazers and skirts to connect in different ways.
The collection also extended the idea of gravity into its presentation. Fabric structures shaped the runway, creating the impression of weight pressing into a surface as models moved through the space. An apple, referencing Newton’s famous association with gravity, became another recurring element.
Weinsanto followed in the evening with its Spring/Summer 2027 runway. The Paris-based label, founded by Victor Weinsanto, remains part of the city’s emerging designer landscape and is also included in the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’s SPHERE ecosystem, which supports developing fashion brands.
Maxhosa Africa Makes History
At 5 pm, Maxhosa Africa presented one of the most significant Paris Fashion Week Day One moments. Founded by South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo, the label became the first South African brand to stage a full runway show on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar.
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Presented at the residence of South Africa’s ambassador to France, the show centred on pan-African identity and South Africa’s textile capabilities. Ngxokolo used locally sourced wool, with production taking place at the brand’s factories in Johannesburg and East London.
The runway featured colourful knitwear, Xhosa-inspired geometric patterns and garments carrying the names of African countries. Checkerboard suits, pleated knit skirts, patterned polos and oversized shorts brought the label’s distinctive textile language into a Paris setting. Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru also contributed eyewear made from waste materials, while South African musician Sjava provided the soundtrack.
Maxhosa Africa’s debut marked a significant moment for the Paris calendar, while Kegels’ rising profile and Weinsanto’s independent approach added further dimension to the opening schedule. The first day made clear that SS27 is opening its doors to a broader and more varied generation of fashion voices.
