Gold Alloys And Their Importance In The Watchmaking World
Modern horology has embraced a diverse range of gold alloys, each with its own aesthetic, technical, and character.
Luxury watchmakers are pushing craftsmanship to the next level in the world of fine watchmaking, where artistry, history, and innovation combine, by developing their own proprietary gold alloys. Whether it’s a richer tone that won’t fade over time, a tougher surface that resists scratches, or an entirely new hue that becomes a brand signature, these unique alloys are as much about identity as they are functional. This goal reflects a deeper philosophy: true luxury resides in having complete control over every aspect of the watchmaking process, down to the atoms of metal.
In modern watchmaking, gold is more than just a symbol of wealth; it is a triumph of materials engineering. Pure gold, or 24K, is far too soft for everyday use, therefore horologists use alloys, which are carefully calibrated mixtures of gold with metals such as copper, silver, palladium, and platinum to improve durability, colour, and wear resistance. These alloys are more than just practical; they also serve as aesthetic signatures. Yellow gold keeps its characteristic richness thanks to a well-balanced blend of silver and copper. Rose gold is warmer and more romantic, with a higher copper content. White gold, on the other hand, gets its silvery shine from palladium or nickel, which is often rhodium-plated for extra brightness and scratch resistance. According to Ricardo Guadalupe, former CEO of Hublot, “Twelve years ago, Hublot invented scratch-resistant 18-karat gold and named it Magic Gold. This now needs no introduction. Today, it is part of Hublot’s DNA.”
Beyond typical blends, watch manufacturers’ in-house unique alloys push the limits further, created not just for tone but also for durability, anti-fading qualities, and hypoallergenic performance. Today, the choice of gold alloy is influenced by both material science and design philosophy. It’s a subtle but important layer of invention, where metallurgy meets artistry on the wrist. Let’s look at the
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Celebrating its 250th anniversary, Breguet introduced its in house patented gold alloy called Breguet Gold, a blond precious metal that combines 75% gold, silver, copper and palladium. This 40mm watch gets a Breguet Gold case, polished bezel, a crown at 3 o’clock, Calibre VS00 treated in gilded brass in the same shade as Breguet gold, and the alligator leather strap with an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
Rolex introduced its exclusive 18k Everose gold alloy in 2005 is composed at least 75% gold, 20% copper, as well as palladium and indium. This 40mm timepiece has an Everose Gold case, lugs, bezel, a crown, and the flat jubilee, five-piece solid link bracelet with a concealed folding Crownclasp. The model was launched at this year’s Watches and Wonders and was first spotted on the wrist of ace tennis legend Roger Federer.
Omega Speedmaster 38mm
OMEGA has been using the Bronze Gold with 37.5% gold, hallmarked as 9K, as well as palladium and silver, to create a unique colour which sits exactly between the brand’s 18K MoonshineTM gold and 18K SednaTM gold. Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition has a 39 mm brushed case is crafted in OMEGA’s exclusive Bronze Gold, with a polished bezel, lugs, a crown at 3 o’clock. The 18K Sedna™ Gold hands have been given a special PVD Bronze Gold coating. The watch is finished on a brown leather strap with a pin buckle in Bronze Gold.
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321
Omega’s Canopus Gold is a proprietary 18k white gold alloy. It’s composed primarily of 75% gold, 20% palladium, and the remainder is a mix of platinum and rhodium. This 38.6mm watch gets 18K Canopus Gold™ case, bezel, lugs, crown, chronograph pushers at 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock, white gold hands indexes with a Canopus Gold™ PVD treatment, and bracelet.
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope
Omega’s Moonshine Gold is a proprietary 18K yellow gold alloy composed of 75% gold, 14% silver, 9% copper, and 1% palladium. This unique composition gives it a distinctive paler hue compared to traditional 18K yellow gold. The Speedmaster Chronoscope has a 48.6mm case. Moonshine™ can be found on the case, bezel, lugs, crown, chronograph pushers at 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock, Arabic hour markers, leaf-shaped hands and subdial hands that are Moonshine™ Gold coated, and the bracelet.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Sedna gold is Omega’s vision of a more durable pink gold alloy composed of minimum of 75% gold, along with copper and palladium. The 42mm watch gets an 18K Sedna™ gold case, lugs, crown, pushers, elongated hour markers, and a fully bracelet with a folding clasp.
Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution
The 47mm model is crafted in 18K Black Gold and features a single-block sapphire caseband. The black off-center dial features black Arabic numerals at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock, along with dauphine hour and minute hands. The caseback is similarly made of 18k black gold. The double-axis flying tourbillion spins in 1 minute and 15 seconds.
Lange & Söhne ODYSSEUS
A. Lange & Söhne’s “HONEYGOLD” is a proprietary gold alloy developed by the brand in 2010. The alloy comprises of 75% pure gold with specific proportions of copper and zinc. This 40.5mm timepiece gets a HONEYGOLD case, a narrow bezel, lugs, screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, baton markers, hour and minute hands, and the bracelet.
Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 42mm
Hublot developed a new gold colour with a warmer shade than the traditional 5N 18K gold inn early 2000s. Containing mainly platinum, this exclusive King Gold alloy lends itself to all elements of polishing and satin finishing. The MECA-10 King Gold has a 42mm satin-finished and olished 18K King Gold case, bezel, and a black-plated titanium deployant buckle clasp.
Hublot Square Bang Unico Magic Gold
Hublot invented scratch-proof gold, which had never existed before. The Manufacture developed and patented Magic Gold, the world’s first and only 18K gold alloy that flawlessly withstands. It retains its brilliance, gloss, and polished appearance with time. Magic Gold is an 18k gold verified by the Central Office for Precious Metals Control. The timepiece comes in a 42mm polished 18K Magic Gold case, bezel, and the polished caseback.
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech™
According to Panerai, the key to this characteristic is the composition of the alloy is 75% gold, 24% copper (creating a deep red hue), and also a small amount of platinum (0.4%). This material can be found on the case, polished bezel, and cone-shaped crown at 3 o’clock, and on the trapezoidal polished BDR clasp.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph
18k Armour Gold® is a unique new kind of 5N gold. The material is created through a complex process that alters the microstructure of the alloy. As a result, the material is much tougher and more wear-resistant than standard 5N gold. This material is excellent for the Big Pilot’s Watch’s massive design and eye-catching diamond crown. Limited to 100 pieces, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009) features a case, pushers and crown crafted from 18k Armor Gold®. The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with
an 18k Armor Gold® folding clasp.