In a market buzzing with conversations about preserving traditional Indian handlooms, fabrics and artisanal textiles, Indian carpets often go overlooked. The craft travelled to India from Persia with the Mughals, who, similar to architecture, imbued carpets with Indian motifs and fabrics giving birth to a distinctively Indian craft. Today, handcrafted carpets are not just a luxury, but coveted heirlooms globally. Indian handcrafted carpets command premium on the international market. According to the Department of Commerce, Ministry of Commerce and Textile Export Promotion Council, handmade carpet exports from India resulted in a revenue of US$ 151.45 million in January 2024, higher than US$ 138.38 million in January 2023. India is also responsible for around 40% of worldwide exports of handmade carpets.
A frontrunner for India’s carpet excellence is the 104-year-old brand, Obeetee. With more than 25,000 artisans hand-knotting and weaving carpets in the Mirzapur region of Uttar Pradesh, Obeetee is one of the oldest and largest hand-woven rug companies that issustained by its artisan community. After decades of dominating its position in the the international market, the brand is now captivating Indian audiences by collaborating with renowned Indian designersoffering carpets that serve as both heirlooms and modern masterpieces.
The brand’s latest collection Viraasat, a stunning collaboration with four of India’s most iconic designers—Tarun Tahiliani, Anju Modi, Ashdeen Lilaowala, and Anita Dalmia—reimagines heritage through luxury. Each visionary brings their signature style to life, with the carpet as their canvas. The collection features intricate art forms such as the elegant Pichwai, the epic Panchvati from the Ramayana, Vrindavan’s enchanting landscapes, and the intricate beauty of Persian and Oriental embroidery, alongside the rich tradition of Kashidakari.
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At the launch in New Delhi, Angelique Dhama, President of Obeetee Carpets explains the origin story of the Viraasat collection, “The story of Viraasat began a couple of years ago when we aimed to showcase the legacy and lineage of Obeetee to our customers. Many had approached us seeking pieces that could serve as wedding gifts or heirlooms to pass down to their children.The designs for these carpets had to be timeless and versatile. I view this collection as a testament to our dedication to preserving our cultural heritage. Each rug and tapestry, designed to elevate any space with its luxury, fills me witheuphoria, knowing that every Viraasat piece owner will cherish the unique story it narrates.”
Designer Ashdeen Lilaowala who champions Parsi craftsmanship used the fine art of Gara embroidery to create intricate designs for the carpet collection that were intricate and vibrant, deep and royal colours. Apart from the carpet, there are tapestries that are equally contemporary.
He reflects on his contribution to the collection: “The carpets that I have worked on reflect the Parsi Gara embroidery. Gara is known for rich jewel tones with a range of flora and fauna motifs such as peonies, chrysanthemums, lilies, swans and butterflies. It was a challenge to render the detailing of these designs on the carpets, but the Obeetee’s artisans executed them with finesse.”
In distinctly different creative approach, Anita Dalmia, Creative Director, HMSA Designs used iconic temple and historic architecture as inspirations. More tapestry than carpets, the monotone detailing of the structures on the rugs is astounding.
For pieces like Journey Within by Anita Dalmia, whose tapestry is inspired by Jagannath Puri, the inspiration is obvious. “I’ve always been passionate about temples and I am a Krishna devotee so this collaboration allowed me to create an ode to Jagannath ji. For me, it was an effortless creative process but at the same time I find that it is important to preserve this heritage and not get lost in the frenzy for all things new.”
Veteran fashion designer Anju Modi,who is known for her deep-rooted connection to Indian mythology and history, drew inspiration from the Ramayana’s forests, imagining what they might have looked like centuries ago. She says, “I imagined that I was in a palace and am looking out the window into a forest. The architectural arches form the window. The forest is not green because I wanted the colour tones be neutral so that the piece can fit into any home and any colour palette. The colour match, shading and detailing on the smallest designs was executed with meticulous perfection.”
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Bringing miniature painting to life, Tahiliani says, “The Viraasat collection carpets are the modern interpretation of Pichwai, where miniature paintings are translated into rugs. Both are integral to Indian folklore. These pieces are more commercial and subtler than previous Obeetee offerings.”
Designer collaborations are not new for Obeetee. Rudra Chatterjee, Chairman of Obeetee, informs that the rugmakers have been working with the likes of Tarun Tahiliani, Anju Modi, and Raghavendra Rathore over the years creating regionally-inspired carpets, such as those featuring Chikankari from Lucknow, and tie-and-dye from Ahmedabad. “Viraasat creates timeless Indian designs which belong both on the floor and the wall, living with you as your life’s journey evolves,” Chatterjee explains. Viraasat collection will be available online and at Obeetee’s flagship stores in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Bangalore, and Pune from September 2024.
Obeetee’s focus on the Indian market wasn’t always part of the plan, but as Chatterjee shared, the demand emerged naturally. “We did projects with Indian crafts such as Chikankari, Jamdani and Jamawar for our showroom in New York. We found that many customers in India asked if these familiar designs and motifs are available in India. This aligned perfectly as we were setting up our retail channels in India, making it the ideal moment to build Obeetee’s presence domestically.”
Chatterjee also emphasized the brand’s core is to spotlight Indian handicrafts and motifs. “We have to recognise India as the only country that still has handloom and the whole world needs to acknowledge it. India is, before anything else, the land of textiles. When we talk about the Vedas, the text is called the Sutras, which means the strings. When we talk about Tantra, the word Tantra comes from the word Tant, which also means textile craft. Our job is to ensure that the talent of India’s artisans—whether making a shawl or a Jamdani saree—is globally acknowledged through home textiles. We want to bring crafts from around India into your home extending beyond clothing into every facet of modern living.”
