Far removed from Goa’s stereotypical shacks and beach bum clichés sits Hosa, a century old Portuguese villa reinvented for the new age, beneath the leafy canopy of old Siolim, a restaurant like a secret handshake between history and reinvention. ‘Hosa’, meaning ‘new’ in Kannada, made its debut three years ago, tucked discreetly in a sleepy by lane by the Chapora River. From the powder blue façade that whispers heritage to the 14ft bar that screams elegance, Hosa invites you to settle into its rhythm of contrasts. It’s here that art meets appetite, tradition finds technique, and age old recipes are plated with modern swagger. Walking in feels like entering a labyrinth of flavours, moods, and stories, many of which demand you lean in to savour, sip, and simply ‘be.’
South Indian, But Make It Art
Some places feed your stomach; others feed your curiosity. At Hosa, though, it’s both. I remember my first visit vividly, it felt like unwrapping a gift, one detail at a time. The arched windows and lofty ceilings whispered colonial nostalgia, while the sleek design reminded me I’d just stepped into tomorrow. The 14ft bar gleamed, punctuated with bottles that seemed less like staples and more like a curated gallery of liquors. Head of Bars, Varun Sharma, spins elixirs like he’s crafting miniature myths in a glass.
I chalked it up as a shrine for cocktail connoisseurs, which, by the way, it is. But Hosa’s showpiece isn’t just its space; it’s the whirlwind of flavours that greet you. The cocktail menu? Think classics reborn. A margarita is suddenly sun kissed with tamarind and whispers of jaggery, while the once humble mojito takes a road trip south of the Vindhyas, picking up spices along the way. In the dining room, I notice something, the sounds of forks and knives faintly hush each time a dish arrives at a table. People pause to really see their food, to think about it in a way that modern dining rarely inspires. It’s not pretentious, it’s curious. Every dish and there are dozens to choose from, is a smart yet soulful rendition of South Indian cuisine, dreamt up by brand chef Harish Rao.
Think Deccan food, but make it haute. To me, Rao’s genius lies in his ability to take centuries old ingredients, think millets, tamarind, jaggery and spin them into a taste that feels unstuck from time.
Heritage, Heat And A Hint Of Magic
We started with the ‘Green Liver Fry’, a dish that takes guts, literally. The hearty liver, kissed with just the right amount of spice, is balanced by the ‘ragi dosa’, a nutty, earthy blanket that feels both rustic and refined. Then came the ‘Naranga Chicken’, a riot of bright orange chilli glaze and grilled meat so smoky and tender it felt like an edible flamenco dance on the palate.
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The ‘Karnataka-style Girmit’ is a delightful mess of puffed rice packed into a crunchy bajji chilli like your favourite street-side snack elevated to fine dining. But the biggest ‘lean-back-and-sigh’ moment? The ‘Hosa Masala Bun’. Imagine tearing into a soft, golden bun slathered with caramelized onion masala and ‘thakkali butter’, it’s the kind of comfort food that feels almost indecent in its indulgence.
Then there is the ‘Kadumpuli Fish’, bathed in Malabar tamarind and paired with a spicy ‘thuvaiyal’, brought the bold coastal tang of Kerala, like the sea itself deciding to join you for dinner. And if you think they’re leaving lamb out of the equation here, think again. The ‘Madhurai Lamb Chop’, seasoned with Chettinad spices and paired with a surprising pineapple salad, is equal parts fiery and refreshing, a culinary tug-of-war, in the best way.
Even the biryani is anything but basic. The ‘Ambur Biryani’ stars a slow braised lamb shank, the tender meat practically sliding off the bone, loaded with masala and cooled by a sharp, creamy onion raita. Just when I thought the mains had stolen the spotlight, the ‘Garelu Chicken Curry’ arrived with crisp lentil fritters soaking up a rich, poppy seed gravy. It’s one of those dishes that’ll leave you holding your empty bowl and questioning your life decisions (mostly why you didn’t try this sooner).
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Dessert? Oh, they’re not playing it safe here either. The ‘Mango Coconut Cake’, with its whipped cream and bright mango jam, feels like summer condensed into a bite. And the ‘Corn Off the Cob’? A playful mix of corn cream and charred corn that’s one part dessert, one part carnival on a plate. To say it’s a meal worth remembering might be an understatement.
Fact Box
Where?: Hosa Restaurant & Bar, At Irada Home, Near St. Anthony’s Church, Vaddy, Siolim – Bardez, North Goa
Call : +91 7498627977
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.hosarestaurant.com/
