Inside Baur Au Lac: Zurich’s Historic Luxury Hotel Loved By Celebrities Since 1844

At a time when most luxury hotels chase trends, Baur au Lac situated at the edge of Lake Zurich remains a sweet paradox—steadfast in tradition yet quietly rewriting the rules of contemporary hospitality. Where other five-star hotels might opt for penthouse suites, Baur au Lac offers a rooftop gym overlooking Lake Zurich and the snow-dusted Swiss Alps. Instead of a swimming pool, it preserves a tranquil private garden since it first opened in 1844 that not only provides the much-needed break for your mind and soul from the busy city, but is also home to 80,000 house honeybees housed in a miniature replica of the hotel itself.

As a seasoned traveller well-versed in five-star luxury, I didn’t expect to be surprised—yet Baur au Lac, established in 1844 by Johannes Baur, did just that. Over a recent weekend stay, I found myself immersed not only in luxury but in a deep sense of heritage. It’s not every day one gets to sip tea where Richard Wagner premiered Die Walküre in the 1850s, with the composer singing the parts of Hunding and Siegmund himself. Or stroll through salons that once hosted Alfred Nobel’s secretary Bertha von Suttner as she conceived the idea of the Nobel Peace Prize. Over the years Baur au Lac has perfected the old school charm to woo the modern day ultra-rich globetrotters. Like using an old school physical room key that you hand over at the bell desk each time you step out and have a casual chat with the well-trained concierge staff.

Arrival and First Impressions

After a demanding work trip in Geneva, I boarded a train to Zurich, craving some weekend respite. Zurich, with its vibrant vibe and cosmopolitan flair of the Bahnhofstrasse, has always charmed me more than its postcard-perfect counterpart, Geneva. My destination? The iconic Baur au Lac—arguably one of Europe’s finest hotels and a masterclass in heritage hospitality.

Awaiting me at Zurich’s busy main station was a chauffeur-driven limousine arranged by the hotel. Within minutes, we were at Baur-au-Lac, nestled just off the Bahnhofstrasse—the city’s famed shopping boulevard. Flanked by the Schanzengraben canal (the Swiss version of a Venice canal) that flows into the lake and the shimmering lake Zurich, the hotel’s location is as enviable as its reputation. Within hours of checking in, I realised why this 180-year-old, seventh-generation family run hotel is way above awards like Best Hotels in the World, etc, though they come their way systematically.

The Suite Life

My Junior Suite—an airy 500 square foot—was awash in natural light, with serene canal views from a private balcony. Here, even the smallest room starts at a generous 250 square foot, while the crown jewel, the River Suite, stretches to a regal 650. Art Deco interiors strike the perfect balance between timeless charm and modern comfort, while each of their suites are effortlessly stylish and distinctly personal. A subtle colour scheme, gilded mirrors, eye catching art works and a spacious workstation for work or unwinding—the suite feels less like a hotel stay and more like stepping into an impeccably curated private residence.

A hand-written welcome note, a bottle of champagne, a curated fruit platter, house-made chocolates, and jars of premium dry fruits, and a free mini bar set the tone for what I could expect in the days to come.

Where Legends Have Stayed

Baur au Lac is a haven of discretion—its staff graciously silent on its current celebrity clientele. But delve into its storied past and you’ll find it’s hosted everyone from Audrey Hepburn to Richard Gere, from Joan Miró to Marc Chagall. Placido Domingo, Zubin Mehta, kings, tsars, and statesmen have all checked in over the decades, drawn by its blend of quiet glamour and personalised service.

Eat Like A King

At Baur au Lac, F&B is undoubtedly a highlight—each dining experience unfolds like a symphony, epitomising the art of slow luxury. Thoughtfully paced and beautifully composed, every meal invites you to linger, savour, and indulge. The curated food menus, the cocktails and aperitifs, the attentive servers, the spectacular ambience and a guest list that comprises the swish list of Zurich investment bankers and industrialists make each dining experience special.

The hotel has three main restaurants. Baur’s, the chic bar and brasserie designed by Martin Brudnizki, an internationally acclaimed interior design studio, brings a touch of London cool to Zurich, with a separate entrance welcoming the non-residents. Marguita, overlooking the garden and canal, is a bright Mediterranean-inspired space perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner. And then there’s Le Hall, the grand lobby lounge, or the “living room of Zurich” which serves leisurely lunch, pre-dinner aperitifs and exquisite desserts from Baur’s own patisserie through the day. Le Hall’s plush seating, breathtaking central chandelier and large portraits of the founder Johannes Baur and his wife make the place artsy and conversations elegant.

Marguita enchants you with two different moods for breakfast and dinner and I was happy to experience both. My dinner at Marguita began with a delicate mixed salad, followed by a decadent King Crab Rossini topped with foie gras, and a rich Calamarata pasta. Rather than a cocktail, I opted for a 2014 Château Ferrière, Troisième Grand Cru Classé from Margaux—complex, mature, and utterly satisfying. The tiramisu was a fittingly elegant end to the meal. Breakfast the next morning was a slow à la carte affair—mercifully free of the overindulgent buffet many luxury hotels fall prey to. I chose a cheese plate, homemade granola, fresh fruit, Eggs Benedict, and a bread basket with Baur-au-Lac’s own honey—harvested from their on-site bees.

Dinner at Baur’s was different. And it was exceptional. I have not seen a better designed bar-cum-brasserie. From the flooring to the ceiling and the zoning of the parts for the bar and the brasserie, Baur’s is a gorgeous warm space. I was told they make delightful cocktails with great twists to the classics. So, my Negroni got a refined twist as the Edigroni, made with Hendrick’s gin. Then came a the All In, a rich, off-menu cocktail version of Boulevardier using Bourbon whisky instead of gin, two vermouths instead of one and chocolate liquer. Both cocktails, absolutely top class! From the small plates, grilled langoustines and a prawn cocktail stood out. My main—a 200g Wagyu Tenderloin, medium rare—was flawless. Dessert was a tableside flambéed Baba au Rhum, served with vanilla cream. Divine.

The Bees That Travel

Introduced in 2016 with just 20,000 bees, Baur au Lac’s hive has since grown into a colony of over 80,000. Their residence? A tiny architectural twin of the hotel itself, set within the lush private garden. As I made my way through the garden, looking at this beautifully bee home, I was told the bees would come back during Easter (which was few days away) as they take a break during the winters. The beekeeper shifts them to a warmer place till then. Starting with four queens and 1,000 drones, the colony has grown into four buzzing hives, all housed inside little boxes where wax honeycombs foster the growth of a young generation, and provide storage for excess pollen and freshly-made, distinctly Swiss honey. And this particular breed of honeybees doesn’t bite humans! Guests are invited to view the five-star habitat located in the middle of the hotel garden at any time to see the colony in action.

The Invisible Touch of Fragrance

There’s something else Baur au Lac does better than most hotels: scent. One of the most overlooked elements in luxury hospitality today is scent. In many five-star hotels, the olfactory experience is often reduced to over-sanitised linens and sterile spaces. But Baur au Lac gets it right. With lush gardens outside and grand floral arrangements inside—in the lobbies, lounges, and even rooms—the hotel’s atmosphere is infused with a natural, elegant fragrance. Everything—from the upholstery to the towels—smells subtly beautiful, giving the hotel an olfactory identity that lingers long after checkout. It’s this quiet attention to detail that sets Baur au Lac apart—making the leap from excellent to exceptional, simply by smelling exquisite.