Heirloom Greens: Why Nizam-Era Emerald Cuts Are Returning to Luxury Fashion

Nizam-era emerald cuts are making a quiet return to luxury fashion, reshaping contemporary high jewellery through heirloom-inspired design and royal Indian aesthetics

08 June 2026 10:51 PM

Nita Ambani’s choice at her son’s pre-wedding bash in 2025 and Isha Ambani’s Met Gala emerald accessory in 2026 have placed the gemstone firmly in the spotlight once again. It is not just their generational wealth that draws attention, but a cultural legacy that continues to shape and influence the language of luxury fashion today. In a luxury landscape increasingly driven by heritage, storytelling and archival inspiration, it is not wrong to say that the emerald is making a comeback.

Once associated with royal treasuries and heirloom collections, the elongated step-cut gemstone is finding renewed relevance in contemporary high jewellery — particularly through design codes inspired by India’s royal traditions, including Nizam-era aesthetics.

The Quiet Geometry of the Emerald Cut

The emerald is a durable gemstone, but it is also one that can be fashioned into a variety of shapes and carat sizes. Unlike brilliant cuts designed to maximise sparkle, emerald cuts are defined by their elongated facets and “hall-of-mirrors” effect. The result is a stone that reflects depth rather than flash — a restrained elegance that feels increasingly aligned with modern luxury sensibilities.

Also Read: What Is High Jewellery? Meaning, Craftsmanship, And Top Luxury Brands In The World

India’s royal jewellery traditions continue to exert a strong influence on global design language and few are as visually distinctive as Nizam-era craftsmanship.

Jewellery from Hyderabad’s Nizams is primarily characterised by large, table-cut and step-cut gemstones, Mughal-inspired symmetry, an emphasis on archival stones and heirloom value.
These design codes are being reinterpreted under the broader umbrella of ‘heirloom jewellery’— a movement that blends historical aesthetics with contemporary wearability.

Bvlgari High Jewellery Emerald Necklaces

Ultra-luxury creations featuring large Colombian emeralds (often over 30–50 carats) set in diamond compositions. Exceptional pieces regularly enter the ₹2 crore to ₹10 crore bracket, especially bespoke or one-of-a-kind commissions.

Cartier High Jewellery Emerald Necklaces

Cartier’s high jewellery lines, including archival-inspired emerald pieces, typically fall in the ₹1 crore to ₹8 crore range, depending on gemstone size, cut, and rarity.

Sabyasachi High Jewellery Emerald Necklace

Indian couture jewellery inspired by Mughal and Nizam-era aesthetics, combining emeralds with uncut diamonds (polki). Prices range from ₹10 lakh for entry high jewellery pieces to ₹1 crore for bespoke bridal sets.

Amaris Jewels ‘Noor Mahal’ Emerald Necklace

A statement heirloom-inspired necklace featuring Colombian emeralds and polki diamonds. Positioned in the ₹37–50 lakh luxury segment, often designed for bridal or collector wear.

Tanishq High Jewellery Emerald Necklaces

Heritage-inspired emerald and diamond necklaces rooted in Indian design language. Entry high jewellery pieces begin around ₹3–4 lakh and can extend to ₹10 lakh depending on craftsmanship and stone quality.

Also Read: Pave Diamond Setting in Watches: Meaning, Craftsmanship And Value

In a market saturated with maximalist design, the emerald cut offers a counterpoint, lending intentional restraint and precision.

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