Legendary Italian fashion designer Valentino Garavani has passed away at the age of 93. Valentino’s designs became global shorthand for red carpet glamour and old-world romance worn by celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Sharon Stone, Kate Hudson, Nancy Reagan, and Princess Diana, among many others.
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His design language balanced the drama and colour of Italian fashion with the tailored elegance of French haute couture. He co-founded the House of Valentino in 1960, which soon stood shoulder to shoulder with other legacy luxury fashion houses like Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani. With him vanishes an era of unapologetic haute couture sensibility that boldly declared luxury rather than whisper it.
“Our founder, Valentino Garavani, passed away today at his Roman residence, surrounded by his loved ones,” said his official Instagram handle, announcing his passing, adding that the icon’s funeral will take place on January 23 at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, in Piazza della Repubblica 8, Rome.
‘The Last Emperor’ of fashion
Born in Lombardy in May 1932, Valentino’s fashion legacy began early at the age of 17. He moved to Paris to study at the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and later honed his design skills under designers like Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Jean Dessès, and Guy Laroche. Eventually, he returned to Rome and opened his own fashion house in 1960. His initial designs channelled French restraint through clean lines and architectural silhouettes before letting his Italian roots play high on romance, striking colour, and drama.
By the 1960s, Valentino was firmly placed on the international map with his first major breakthrough as a designer during a fashion show in Florence’s Pitti Palace in 1962, which made him the go-to designer for HNIs and socialites. In 1968, he shocked a colour-loving Italy with The White Collection, a series of pristine A-line dresses and classic suit jackets that proved minimalism could still feel radical. Some of his other standout creations included a haute couture collection inspired by the elegance of early-twentieth-century Vienna and the work of architect Josef Hoffmann and artist Koloman Moser, sewn in a long strapless dress in duchesse satin in 1989 and the wedding gown of Princess Madeleine of Sweden in 2013, which sealed his place in modern fashion royalty.
Over the years, Valentino’s gowns had become awards-season go-tos worn by Julia Roberts, Sonam Kapoor, Halle Berry, Cate Blanchett, and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, among others.
Couture, With a Conscience
During his career, Valentino began questioning fashion’s relationship with animal cruelty. He came up with an animal print-inspired collection in 1967-68 with leopard prints across jackets, tunics, long hand gloves, and gowns. “In the beginning of my career… The watchword was: extravagance at all costs. Then came the time of responsibility and awareness. Since the world is under threat, and it is possible to avoid the slaughter of animals, why go on killing?” read a statement shared on the brand’s Instagram.
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Further taking a step against animal cruelty, Valentino declared to go fur-free by 2022. According to PETA, Valentino also became the “first luxury brand” to stop using alpaca wool, later banning angora as well. “We’re hopeful that, in that same vein and to honour the legacy, wild-animal skins will also soon vanish from Valentino,” said PETA in a statement on his passing.
Story Of Valentino Red
No conversation about Valentino Garavani is complete without the captivating Valentino red colour. The shade is born from a moment of epiphany that Valentino had at a Barcelona opera when he saw an elderly woman in red standing out in the crowd. For a young Valentino, it was a realisation that red doesn’t just attract attention, it gives confidence and makes one feel bold.
The colour, which was a mix of scarlet, carmine and a hint of orange, was finally introduced in 1959 with a strapless cocktail dress and since then often featured in the luxury fashion house’s collections.
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The Valentino red showcase culminated in his final show in 2008, where every model walked the runway in red. Though he retired that year, the colour remains the brand’s beating heart since then. As Valentino Garavani left behind a $1 billion net worth, the iconic V lives on the brand’s shoes, bags, clothing and more.
