“We Don’t Want To Be Just A Designer Label, We Want To Be A Design House,” Says Payal Singhal

Payal Singhal (PS) is a hustler and a doer— her infectious energy is palpable as we sit down for a chat reflecting on her 25-year journey in fashion and the evolution of Indian fashion through her lens. A conversation with the design maven quickly reveals she has her pulse on the Indian fashion consumer and their evolving tastes. She thrives on ideas, bringing them to life before swiftly moving on to the next. Who else would have thought of backless kurtas for a debut show in 1999, embraced e-commerce 15 years ago, or launched a store in New York in 2005? Striking items off her bucket list one collection and collaboration at a time, she has defined the India Modern aesthetic, seamlessly blending contemporary styles with traditional Indian crafts.

Her passion for old-world embroidery—mukaish, gota, Lucknowi, and zardozi—meets her modern sensibility through silhouettes like concept saris, crop blazers and funky prints, creating light, wearable designs that are both playful and refined. Her signature prints, pastel hues, and intricate embroidery reflect her own fun yet fearless personality. From designing tracksuits to bridal lehengas in her signature bohemian style to incorporating ghungroos into her 25th-anniversary collection (a nod to her name, as payal means ghungroo), Singhal is always ahead of the curve. “I have the same excitement, the same energy, and the same desire to create something new as I did on day one,” she says of her relentless drive.

 

One of the OG disruptors of Indian fashion, Singhal has shaped the industry’s evolution over the last 25 years. Born into a family immersed in fashion, film, and art, she designed her own prom outfit in the tenth grade and was named Designer of the Year by Shoppers Stop at just 15. By 1999, the Payal Singhal label was born. From a small venture to an iconic fashion house, her brand became synonymous with intricate embroidery, luxurious fabrics, and a fresh take on Indian tradition. She took Indian fashion global before most even dreamed of it, opening stores in New York’s Gramercy Park and New Jersey in 2006, followed by expansions in LA, Dubai, Hong Kong, Sydney, and trunk shows across major cities.

A favourite among millennials and the Indian diaspora for occasion wear, Singhal has cemented her place in the modern Indian zeitgeist. So, what keeps her going? “I think what drives me is that I’m never satisfied. That hunger to do better keeps me moving. I wake up every morning thinking, I can do better.”

The Beginnings: A Love Story and a Business

It all started as an excuse—an annual summer trip to the U.S. to meet my then-boyfriend, now husband. I needed a reason, so I began hosting pop-ups. This was the early 2000s, and South Asian clients in America were still catching up with fashion trends. When I introduced pants and short kurtas, they asked, “Where is the salwar? Where is the churidhar?” They were a decade behind, but social media has since bridged that gap. These pop-ups became a tradition, fostering a strong community that has grown with us for 25 years. “I needed a reason to make those trips, so I started hosting pop-ups. What began as an excuse turned into a community.”

Building a Community, One Occasion at a Time

 

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Living in New York for six years after marriage, I became part of my clients’ milestones—engagements, weddings, baby showers, anniversaries. Each year, a new generation of brides and families finds their way to the US. We’re not just a bridal brand; we create designer occasion wear for the entire family, from menswear to kidswear. Whether it’s a mehendi function or a 25th wedding anniversary, we dress them all. Our designs are age-agnostic, making the brand truly inclusive. I enjoy the process of making prints. Print actually happened because it was an international inspiration for me. I was very inspired by DVF and see what she was able to do with print and make it a language. I wanted to create a PS print language and was inspired by DVF to do that. Instead of embroidery or texture or brocade or jamevar, it’s a print line.

Staying True to the Brand’s Ethos

I built this brand on relationships. From day one, it was about offering stylish Indian wear that seamlessly fits into both traditional and modern lifestyles. In 1999, when Indian fashion lacked a “cool” factor, we filled that gap. Today, many designers follow this path, but back then, people questioned what we were doing. The pop-ups helped establish our identity, and they remain a touchpoint to connect with clients personally. It was never about just selling clothes; it was about making fashion effortless and wearable. From the beginning, we’ve worked with unknown faces who later became stars in their own right. When I put Shivani Dandekar on the ramp in my 2007 Lakmé Fashion Week debut, she wasn’t a known name in India. She was a TV host in New York, and we had built a relationship through fashion. When she moved to India, I asked her to walk for me.

We’ve also been part of many actors’ debut journeys, dressing them for their first films, their first blog features, their first major public appearances. We’ve worked with people across industries, including sports. When Mithali Raj, captain of the Indian women’s cricket team, walked our runway, it wasn’t about fashion—it was about celebrating her incredible journey. She looked fantastic, she felt great, and that’s what mattered.

From Occasion Wear to a Lifestyle Brand

Even after 25 years, I still feel the same excitement. The brand has grown from being just an occasion wear brand, a fusion occasion brand, or an India modern brand, to now a complete lifestyle brand. We are already well on our way with collections not just in clothing and accessories but also in jewellery, footwear, home furnishings, gifting and tech accessories. My expertise in craft and construction has deepened, and experience has refined our vision. Yet, the core ethos remains unchanged: the product is king. Today, our digital and retail presence is extensive, spanning international markets with a loyal clientele.

The Future: Expanding Possibilities

I’m a doer, not a planner. While others talk strategy, I follow my instinct. Some say I dilute the brand with collaborations, but I simply do what feels right. We were fashion innovators from the start—introducing backless kurtas in 1999, pioneering e-commerce before it was mainstream, and standardising global pricing for transparency. We’ve always been ahead of the curve, and I want the brand to get due recognition for its contributions. I love working with prints. I was very inspired by DVF and see what she was able to do with print and make it a language. I wanted to create a PS print language and instead of embroidery or texture or brocade or jamevar, it’s a print line.

One of my dreams is to expand the PS Print Bazaar where we do our prints into a full-fledged marketplace for handcrafted Indian products beyond textiles—metalwork, crochet, macramé. This requires time, travel, and deep engagement with local artisans, but it’s a passion I hope to realise at scale.

The Changing Landscape of Fashion

I truly believe and I am not saying this because I am Indian and because I am a designer; there is no other talent pool like India. We beat even the Arab and Asian designers, who are fantastic. We are only looking at the West all the time; but even the Italians, Americans and European designers come to Asia to get their creative stuff done. They are great at marketing; they are great at quality and they are great at creating big businesses; which is what we need to learn from them. We don’t have great support from the government or our organisations. We are not united which is why we have not been able to break that. But I am very happy to see brands like Rahul Mishra and Sabyasachi, Gaurav Gupta, Dhruv Kapoor getting into mainstream fashion world. It’s like they are going to be the next Issey Miyakes and Vera Wangs. Five years from today, the Made in India label will be as valuable as a Made in Italy label. The current trend of big luxury brands entering India don’t intimidate me. I shop globally and find that the best clothing today comes from Indian designers. International brands cater to a niche—less than 5% of the population. While luxury handbags and shoes remain ahead, Indian fashion is unmatched in clothing.

Redefining Success

 

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Success isn’t just about numbers or expansion—it’s about impact. During COVID, I realised our work is not frivolous; we create employment and make people feel good about themselves. That’s what drives me. Am I satisfied? No. I have so much more to do. Success is very subjective and relative. To a lot of people, I’m already successful, but I’m a thirsty, hungry person. When I was young and walked into designer stores, I’d always walk out with a key chain or a little pouch because you couldn’t afford the big bag in those days. I always felt that the PS brand should be a brand that makes you feel welcome. Our main company is called Payal Singhal Design House. We don’t want to be just a designer label, we want to be a design house.

Expansions at Payal Singhal

 

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I love product design. Though I started with clothes, the reason you see so many brand collaborations happening with the brand right now is because I’m asking other people to produce because it’s easier to collaborate. It’s also fun but eventually, I do want to have something which is all ours.

Payal Singhal x Sangeeta Boochra, Payal Singhal x Fizzy Goblet, Payal Singhal x Indya, Payal Singhal x Lavie, Payal Singhal x Endstate and more. We have around 20 plus collaborative lines across footwear, jewellery, beauty and home furnishings with young homegrown brands. I enjoy collaborations for two reasons. One is, I don’t have to take the headache of manufacturing and producing. I am purely designing. And I am enjoying the process of collaborating with other creators. I never thought I would be doing these things. But we have done everything from wallpaper, shoes, handbags. Our collaboration with the American label Endstate makes us the first Indian designer to collaborate with an American brand for a sneaker. So, I see the brand going in many directions in the future.