Not every interesting watch needs a six figure price tag or a century old manufacture behind it. Some simply need to make you stop, stare and wonder what on earth the watchmaker was thinking. The world of independent watchmaking is full of precisely these sorts of creations, where conventional hands are thrown out, time is displayed on wandering discs and mechanical design becomes almost as important as telling the time. From Xeric’s wonderfully theatrical wandering hour display and Angles’ unconventional BASE60 system to Dennison’s Art Deco inspired dual timepiece and Otsuka Lotec’s distinctly industrial No.8, these are watches that may not have the marketing budgets of the Swiss giants, but arguably have far more personality.
Xeric Triptych Automatic Wandering Hour Stone Edition
The Xeric Triptych Automatic Wandering Hour Stone Edition is what happens when someone decides that ordinary hour and minute hands are simply too predictable. Its wandering hour display uses three rotating hour discs that travel across the dial, with the current hour appearing in a designated aperture while a minute track provides the remaining information. The Stone Edition adds an earthy, sculptural character to the concept, making it feel less like a conventional wristwatch and more like a small piece of mechanical theatre. Beneath the unusual display is an automatic movement, ensuring that the watch is as mechanically engaging as it is visually unconventional.
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Angles BASE60 Automatic Wandering Hour
The Angles BASE60 Automatic Wandering Hour takes the wandering hour concept and gives it another twist. Instead of simply presenting time with conventional hands, the watch uses a rotating system designed around the base-60 structure of hours and minutes. The result is a display that takes a few moments to understand, which is precisely why it is interesting. Its automatic movement keeps the mechanism running while the unconventional architecture of the dial gives the watch a distinctly futuristic personality. It is the sort of piece that is likely to generate a conversation before anyone has even asked what time it is.
Dennison ALD Dual Time Carnaby Blue
The Dennison ALD Dual Time Carnaby Blue is considerably more restrained, but no less distinctive. Inspired by the design language associated with Dennison’s heritage and London’s Carnaby Street, the watch combines a contemporary case with a striking blue dial and a practical dual time display. It is an appealing proposition for travellers who want something more interesting than another conventional GMT watch. The combination of colour, proportions and dual time functionality gives it a personality that feels sophisticated without becoming overly serious.
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Otsuka Lotec No.8
Then there is the Otsuka Lotec No.8, which looks as though it was designed by someone who became slightly obsessed with industrial machinery and decided to put the result on a wrist. Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama, Otsuka Lotec watches are known for their distinctive mechanical displays and almost instrument-like aesthetic. The No.8 continues that philosophy with a highly architectural case and unconventional time display, giving it the appearance of a precision instrument rather than a traditional luxury watch. There is little interest here in following the established rules of Swiss watchmaking, and that is precisely its charm.
