The third day of Paris Fashion Week had a little bit of everything, including the start of a new creative chapter at Courrèges, The Row’s studied restraint and Tom Ford’s after-dark sensuality. As Paris Fashion Week 2026 moved through its Spring Summer 2027 schedule on September 30, the day brought three distinct takes on modern luxury dressing.
The day moved from the Palais de Tokyo to The Row’s presentation and finally to a mirrored setting at Place Vendôme, with each house creating its own atmosphere and visual vocabulary. Courrèges opened the morning with Drew Henry’s first collection for the house, followed by The Row’s pared-back take on wardrobe staples. Tom Ford closed the day with Haider Ackermann’s highly charged vision of eveningwear.

The morning belonged to Drew Henry’s Courrèges SS27 debut, one of the season’s two new creative-director debuts on the official Paris calendar. Henry, who has previously worked with Céline, JW Anderson, Phoebe Philo and Burberry, succeeded Nicolas Di Felice at the French house earlier this year. For his first collection, he looked past the label’s familiar late-’60s Space Age minimalism and into its more colourful early-’60s history.
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At the Palais de Tokyo, archival references were coupled with knitwear, vinyl, PVC, tailoring and loose, layered proportions. Cream and navy were punctuated by vivid orange, acid green and fluorescent shades, giving the collection a playful energy. Rather than treating Courrèges’ futuristic heritage as something fixed, Henry used its visual codes as a starting point for a wardrobe that felt softer, freer and more expressive.

At noon, The Row presented a quieter proposition. Founded by Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, the house has built its reputation on exceptional fabrics, exacting construction and silhouettes that rarely need embellishment to make an impression. Its Spring Summer 2027 collection stayed close to those principles, focusing attention on shape, texture and the way garments sit on the body.
There was no need for theatrical styling to carry the clothes. The appeal came through elongated proportions, refined tailoring and carefully considered separates, allowing fabric and construction to do the work. In the context of a day filled with louder gestures elsewhere, The Row’s restraint felt deliberate rather than understated for the sake of it.

The evening shifted gears with Tom Ford’s SS27 show, where Haider Ackermann continued to define the house’s creative direction following Ford’s departure. Staged in a mirrored space at Place Vendôme, the presentation surrounded the models with reflections, amplifying the collection’s cinematic mood.
Open jackets, sheer fabrics, sharp tailoring, leather, silk and cut-out eveningwear brought a distinctly sensual edge, while swimsuits and relaxed pieces softened the intensity. Black dominated much of the palette, with red and cobalt providing flashes of colour. The casting included Alex Consani, Kristen McMenamy, Anok Yai and Malgosia Bela, adding further star power to the presentation.
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Rather than converging around a single aesthetic, the day showed just how broad the Spring Summer 2027 conversation can be.