Regal and Rare: Why Polki Continues to Define Indian High Jewellery

Vintage-style Polki collections in India are seeing a rejig for lighter wear, commercially making it viable and transforming the timeless artistry into a modern must-have when it comes to collecting the Indian high jewellery.

Traditionally, Polki jewellery in India was revoked at the time of weddings and passed through families and rarely treated as a fast-moving retail product. Contrary to its conventional image, times are changing with evolving bridal aesthetics, trendy pastel wardrobes, destination weddings and an inclination to wear lighter jewellery. Polki is no longer relegated to special occasions only but has evolved into jewellery designed for versatility and elegance.

What Are Polki Diamonds

Polki diamonds are natural diamonds undergo minimal processing, retaining much of their original form and character. What lends it its old-world charm is its uneven surfaces, unique shapes and organic inclusions, setting it apart from other polished variations of diamonds.

While modern diamonds are graded on the 4Cs (Cut, Colour, Clarity, Carat), Polki diamonds are selected based on their level of transparency as having a higher-quality Polki stones allow more light transmission. Next come the quality of surface, smoother surfaces of Polki stones reflect light better. The natural shape of Polki stones is retained, with preferrence often given to diamonds sourced from mines known for producing premium-quality stones.

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Apart from selection of the selection of the right kind of diamonds, the setting plays a defining role in shaping a piece of Polki jewellery. The stones are typically crafted using two distinct styles, i.e., close setting and open setting, also known as Vilandi. In the traditional close setting, the stones are embedded in a base of lac and gold foil, often accompanied by intricate enamel work on the reverse. This results in a rich, opulent aesthetic that is linked with bridal and heirloom jewellery. On the other hand, open setting or Vilandi, takes a different approach. This approach is all about leaving the back of the diamond exposed, allowing light to pass through the stone and enhance its natural brilliance. Lighter in weight and appearance, this style lends itself to a more contemporary aesthetic along with retaining the timeless appeal of uncut diamonds.

Crafting Polki Jewellery

The beauty of Polki jewellery lies not only in its uncut diamonds but also in the centuries-old regional techniques used to set, secure and enhance the stones’ natural brilliance.

Open Setting (Vilandi Style)

In this contemporary approach, the back of the diamond remains exposed, allowing light to pass through the stone. The result is enhanced brilliance, lighter weight and a modern aesthetic. Priced at INR 50,84,612, Indriya’s Samodhini Polki Short Necklace showcases the Vilandi open-setting technique, presenting uncut diamonds through a contemporary interpretation of traditional craftsmanship.

Jadau Polki

A traditional Mughal-era craft, Jadau involves embedding uncut diamonds, gemstones and pearls into highly refined gold without prongs, creating elaborate heirloom pieces celebrated for their craftsmanship. Jaipur Polki House’s18k Gold Diamond Polki GF Ruby and Cultured Pearls Choker Necklace reflects the traditional Jadau technique in around INR 18,75,000.

Bikaneri Setting

Originating in Rajasthan’s Bikaner region, this technique combines uncut diamonds with intricate meenakari enamel work. Rich detailing on the reverse makes each piece beautiful from every angle.
A handcrafted Bikaneri Kundan Polki Choker Set by Babita Agrawal Jewellery exemplifies the region’s heritage craftsmanship, with prices ranging up to around INR 14,00,000 depending on the design, gemstones and detailing.

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Unlike the dazzling sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds, Polki is known for its soft, diffused and natural radiance. Rather than reflecting light with sharp intensity, it emits a subtle glow that lends it a distinctive old-world appeal. This understated brilliance is what sets Polki apart from modern diamond styles and conventional jewellery settings.