Milan Fashion Week 2026 is entering a quieter but significant phase. Running from September 22 to 28, the Spring/Summer 2027 edition is less about a flood of new creative directors and more about established fashion houses seeing what happens when fresh ideas are given time to develop. The calendar includes 54 physical and six digital shows, with several of the industry’s most watched names returning for their second or third collections.
As several new creative appointments move into their next collections, this season offers a closer look at how these designers are shaping the identities of some of Milan’s biggest names. From Fendi and Gucci to Marni and Moschino, the focus will be on what comes next.
New Creative Chapters
Maria Grazia Chiuri will be among the first major names under scrutiny. On September 23, she will present her second collection for Fendi, following her February debut for the house.
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Her first show drew on the label’s heritage while establishing her own direction, making this presentation an early indication of how that relationship is developing.
On September 24, Meryll Rogge will return with her second collection for Marni. Her appointment followed the departure of Francesco Risso, and her first collection introduced a different approach to the house’s playful, eclectic vocabulary.
A day later, on September 25, Demna will present his sophomore ready-to-wear collection for Gucci. After his first runway for the house in February, the new collection will offer another look at how he is interpreting one of Milan’s most recognisable luxury names.
September 25 will also bring the week’s only major creative-director debut. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the founders of Sunnei, will show their first collection as co-creative directors of Moschino, following Adrian Appiolaza’s departure in June. Their arrival gives the house a new creative chapter while making Moschino one of the most closely watched Milan Fashion Week 2026 brands.
Building on House Codes
The schedule then shifts towards designers who are already establishing their language within major fashion houses. Louise Trotter will present her third collection for Bottega Veneta on September 26, while Prada will open the week on September 22. The Milan Fashion Week 2026 collections will also include established names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, Max Mara, Etro, Missoni and Alberta Ferretti.
September 24 will mark an important moment for Armani, with Emporio Armani presenting its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, the last under Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco before Dario Vitale takes over its creative direction. Giorgio Armani will then present on September 27, with Silvana Armani overseeing womenswear and Dell’Orco menswear, as the house enters its first full season following Giorgio Armani’s death in 2025.
Versace, meanwhile, will be absent for the second consecutive season. Pieter Mulier’s debut for the house is scheduled for February 2027, keeping his interpretation of the brand outside this season’s Milan Fashion Week schedule.
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Taken together, the Milan Fashion Week fashion houses are using this season to move from introductions towards definition. For the designers returning for a second or third collection, the challenge is less about making a first impression and more about turning new creative directions into signatures. That gradual shift towards refinement, house heritage and distinctive codes will be closely watched as part of the luxury fashion trends 2026 conversation.
