What does freedom look like when it becomes clothes? At Milan Fashion Week SS27, Day 3 offered plenty of answers. Max Mara found it in clothes for women who travelled and explored, Genny drew on the imagery of a desert oasis, while Alberta Ferretti looked to dance and movement. Marni revealed the construction beneath familiar pieces, Anteprima revisited its archive through the fantastical world of ‘Alice in Wonderland’, and Roberto Cavalli embraced the expressive power of prints. Across the September 24 schedule, designers took very different routes to loosen the rules of dressing while staying true to their own visual language.
The idea was especially evident in the day’s opening shows, where familiar wardrobe codes were given fresh context through colour, proportion and movement.
Wardrobes Took New Routes
Max Mara opened the day at Milan Fashion Week with Ian Griffiths looking to pioneering women of the 1930s, including aviators and explorers. Trench coats, safari shirts, cargo trousers and practical outerwear brought that spirit into the collection, while materials such as organza, silk, cotton and knit kept the clothes light enough for summer.
Genny followed with ‘La Regina del Deserto’, imagining a woman moving through an oasis-like landscape. Tulle tunics evoked sand and wind, while deconstructed jackets and denim appeared alongside torn chiffon.
Phan Dang Hoang brought a different kind of heritage to the morning, drawing on Vietnamese culture and craftsmanship in a co-ed collection.
Also Read: Fendi, Missoni & Luisa Beccaria Bring New Perspectives to Familiar Codes At Milan Fashion Week
The Milan-based Vietnamese designer is known for bringing cultural identity, traditional techniques and contemporary silhouettes together.
Anteprima then entered a more whimsical world with ‘Curiouser and Curiouser’. Anteprima founder Izumi Ogino revisited pieces from the brand’s archive and placed them in conversation with soft tailoring, sheer blouses, glossy skirts and intricate embroidery.
Marni continued the exploration of familiar clothing through transformation, with Meryll Rogge bringing construction details to the surface through exposed linings, cut-outs and deconstructed seams.
Dressing Became More Expressive
The next set of shows explored movement, shine and bolder forms of self-expression. Francesco Murano presented ‘Eidola’, drawing on Fritz Lang’s ‘Metropolis’ through vertical draping, metallic mesh and glossy jersey.
Alberta Ferretti’s ‘A Beautiful Escape’, meanwhile, found inspiration in dance, with feathered slips, jeans, kimono jackets and iridescent florals giving the collection an easy sense of movement.
Roberto Cavalli placed prints at the heart of its SS27 collection, embracing the house’s long association with decoration, colour and sensual dressing.
Florania brought a more raw approach to the evening, contrasting rigid leather with shredded cotton and unfinished surfaces.
Emporio Armani closed the day with ‘Traces of Time’, a collection shaped by textures and surfaces that suggested the marks left behind by nature. Salt crystals appeared across denim, while marble-like effects, felted wool and mineral-inspired embellishment gave the clothes a weathered character. Presented by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco, the collection also marked the end of their chapter overseeing the label before Dario Vitale’s arrival.
Also Read: Milan Fashion Week SS27 Opens With Prada, Dhruv Kapoor, Diesel And More
With Day 3 showcasing distinct creative directions, Spring/Summer 2027 is shaping up to be a season where personal expression matters as much as the clothes themselves.
