The second day of Milan Fashion Week SS27 brought together ten shows that approached fashion through romance, restraint, theatricality and experimentation. Luisa Beccaria, Fendi and Missoni revisited recognisable house signatures, while Jil Sander, Antonio Marras, Vivetta, MM6 Maison Margiela, Etro, Daniela Gregis and Onitsuka Tiger offered their own perspectives on how familiar fashion languages can evolve.
What made the September 23 lineup particularly interesting was the way several houses returned to elements closely associated with their identities, but placed them in unfamiliar contexts. Luisa Beccaria looked to an imagined botanical archive, Fendi brought reflection into its presentation and Missoni drew on the idea of travel. Around them, the day unfolded through intimate dressing, theatrical references and clothes that questioned how familiar pieces should be worn.
The Many Moods of Dressing
The Luisa Beccaria Milan Fashion Week show opened with ‘Herbarium’, an imagined botanical archive translated into clothing. Floral embroidery, cutwork, appliqué and petal-like ruffles appeared across the Luisa Beccaria SS27 collection, alongside organza, sequins and dégradé knits. Violet, watery blue and warm brown gave the collection a richer palette, while intricate craftsmanship remained central to the house’s romantic aesthetic.
Jil Sander moved towards a considered disruption of minimalism. Simone Bellotti retained the label’s precise construction while playing with shifted button placements, twisted folds, loosened layers and unexpected proportions. The clothes kept their clean foundation but appeared less rigid in movement and structure.
Daniela Gregis followed with her distinctive approach to relaxed dressing, before Antonio Marras introduced a more theatrical setting. His SS27 collection imagined a Sardinian wedding, with a banquet table placed in a Milan park. Lace, embroidery, checks, stripes, florals and military references came together in clothes that captured the intimacy and informality of a celebration.
At Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her second ready-to-wear collection for the house inside a mirrored structure inspired by Luciano Fabro’s ‘Cubo di specchi’.
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The Fendi Milan Fashion Week collection explored the relationship between the body, clothing and reflection, with fitted silhouettes, sheer fabrics, lingerie-inspired details, flowing elements and decorative fringes. The presentation made the setting an integral part of the collection’s visual language.
Familiar Signatures Find Movement
Vivetta brought a softer sensibility to the afternoon, with sorbet shades, relaxed pieces, knee-length coats and satin separates forming the foundation of the collection. Jewellery and accessories retained the label’s playful personality while giving the clothes a more restrained direction.
At Missoni, Alberto Caliri looked to Rosita Missoni’s love of travel. The Missoni Milan Fashion Week collection centred on movement and versatility rather than one particular destination. Fluid dresses, balloon trousers, peignoirs and tabards appeared alongside looser interpretations of the house’s recognisable patterns, giving the Missoni SS27 collection an easy, nomadic character.
MM6 Maison Margiela approached everyday dressing through transformation. Shirts became dresses, trousers shifted into miniskirts and sweaters changed function, with familiar garments altered through proportion and construction. The collection retained the recognisability of each original piece while questioning its expected role.
Etro’s ‘Halo’ softened the house’s established visual language through enlarged and fragmented paisleys, transparency, fringe and floating layers. Tailored trousers, suede blousons and denim added structure, balancing the fluidity of the collection.
Onitsuka Tiger closed the day with Andrea Pompilio’s fashion-meets-sport approach, bringing streamlined silhouettes and a focus on movement to the runway.
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Across the Milan Fashion Week SS27 collections, the emphasis was less on abandoning signature codes and more on finding different ways to interpret them, reflecting the varied luxury fashion trends Milan Fashion Week is presenting for the season.
