“In The Next Five Years, I See A Surge Of Indian Designers Making Waves On Global Platforms”: Kunal Rawal

2024 was a good year for mens fashion. On the global stage, Pharrell Williams made waves in Paris as the creative director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear with his signature eclectic flair. Sabato De Sarno, the creative director at Gucci’s inaugural menswear collection reinvigorated the iconic house with a fresh perspective, while Dhruv Kapoor continued making making India proud by showcasing at Milan Men’s Fashion Week. These moments underline a global narrative: men’s fashion is no longer playing it safe—it’s fearlessly embracing individuality and innovation.

Closer home, Indian menswear has stepped into a new era too, driven by designers, who blend heritage with cutting-edge aesthetics. Leading tghe charge is Kunal Rawal, who is reshaping the rules of menswear with his audacious approach. Known for his non-conformist approach, the Mumbai-based designer has carved a niche that celebrates India’s artisanal heritage while redefining modern masculinity. Whether it’s dressing Bollywood’s leading men or infusing his collections with an androgynous flair, Rawal’s journey is a testament to the bold new wave of Indian mens couture. At India Couture Week 2024, he reaffirmed his position as a game-changer with ‘Sehra,’ a collection that seamlessly blends tradition with progressive design.

 

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Rawal’s designs are easily recognisable with his experimental designs and silhouettes with interesting use of embroidery, printing and textures. His most recent collection, ‘Sehra’, follows the same design principles. Rawal describes it as: “A playful twist to festive dressing.” As a philosophy, the Sehra collection symbolises new beginnings and culturally diverse nuances, the weaves sourced and crafted from across the country are interwoven to reflect the androgynous ethos of the brand. The collection uses silk, brocades, bandhani, dhup chao threadwork, ikat and Rawal’s signature French knots.

He explains, “We’ve crafted a series of custom kurtas that fuse tradition with a modern edge—think a bold take on nostalgia. Inspired by the classic card games, we reimagined playing cards with our own spin, transforming the king and queen into striking graphic art. These motifs come to life across a range of kurtas, featuring spades, clubs, and intricate animations. The collection plays out in a palette of ivory, red, black, olive, and electric hues, creating pieces that are as fun as they are festive.”

We continued our conversation with him to understand Kunal Rawal’s motivation, being part of the Indian couture growth story and bending the prescribed gender perceptions in the world of fashion.

Edited excerpts

1. Tell us about your design philosophy and how has it changed over the years.

I follow many design philosophies—some have evolved over the years, while others have remained at the heart of my work. One guiding mantra is ‘dress yourself to de-stress yourself’. Fashion should elevate your mood; it’s about how clothes make you feel. For me, my wardrobe is my mood board—when I’m having a rough day, slipping into something vibrant can shift my entire outlook.

Comfort is non-negotiable, both personally, and in my brand. It’s always comfort first, functionality in tandem. This approach is what makes design truly endure, adapting to every moment. But I’m also fascinated by smart design—pieces that are ahead of the curve and thoughtfully crafted. Staying in sync with what’s next is key, but it’s just as important to honour tradition. It’s always about maintaining that balance: respecting the past while embracing the future.

2. Where do you drive inspiration from for your designs, cite a few examples, and how they translate into your collections?

Inspiration for me is always evolving—it shifts with every season, every mood, and every place I find myself in. A major part of my creative spark comes from young India. Today’s youth is more progressive and more expressive than ever, even compared to their global peers. They’re the ones driving trends, influencing choices, and setting the pace for what’s next. Their dynamic lifestyles are a constant source of design cues, keeping us in tune with an ever-changing market.

But India itself is my ultimate muse. It’s a country like no other—diverse enough to feel like 15 different nations within one. Every 100 km, you encounter a new drape, a fresh craft, and a unique local style. From the palaces of Udaipur to the bustling lanes of Kolkata, or the vibrant streets of Bengaluru to the rich culture of Guwahati. Each city has its distinct rhythm and flair, and that diversity is incredibly inspiring. Indian designers are blessed with a legacy that’s rich in handwork, artistry, and tradition. It’s like a treasure chest—each discovery fuels the next. My process is all about absorbing these influences, from artisans to local aesthetics, and reimagining them through my own lens. It’s about taking what you see, learn, and feel, and turning it into something uniquely yours. That’s what shapes my collections.

3. How do you feel about being an Indian designer when Indian fashion is now making a presence on the international platform?

Being an Indian designer right now is exhilarating—especially when Indian fashion is finally carving its space on the global stage. For a long time, Indian menswear felt like a quiet corner. The scene was dominated by neighbourhood tailors—every family had their go-to for custom fits—and the market was mostly about regional players and basic shirting brands. Luxury Indian couture for men was practically unheard of. But that’s changing, and it’s changing fast.

The design landscape is shifting, almost like an awakening. Fresh ideas are emerging, new tastes are shaping up, and Indian craftsmanship is finally stepping into the spotlight. The backing from bigger corporations and the flow of investment have given the industry a structure and a boost we’ve been waiting for. Now, Indian menswear isn’t just catching up—it’s starting to surpass global standards in luxury design. As a designer, I’m proud to see Indian creations turning heads and making a statement worldwide. It’s been a long time coming; it’s everything we’ve hoped for, and it’s just the beginning.

4. Despite having a strong textile and art heritage, why hasn’t India been able to create global brands?

India’s heritage in textiles, art, and craft is unmatched—there’s no denying that. But when it comes to turning that heritage into global brands, the challenge has always been about scale. Our craft relies so heavily on handwork, and while that gives it its unique charm, it also makes scaling up a real challenge.

For years, the industry remained unstructured, and it’s tough to bring structure to something so deeply rooted in manual craftsmanship. But we’re turning a corner with organised business practices and with the right support, our art and heritage are ready to reach a global stage. It’s a thrilling time for Indian fashion, and I’m excited to see where we go from here.

 

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5. As a menswear designer catering to the most fashionable men in Bollywood, how do you keep your collections different yet striking to match the powerful personalities?

Every collection I create is about the individual wearing it—no exceptions. When designing for Bollywood’s fashion-forward personalities, I start by understanding their unique vibe, personality, and preferences. It’s about translating those traits into a piece that truly represents them, yet still carries the brand’s DNA.

The beauty of working with such a diverse range of celebrities is that it pushes me to explore new dimensions of style, dig into the different aspects of what makes them tick. It’s a constant evolution, and that’s where the thrill lies—melding their distinctive energy with our aesthetic to create something that’s not just different but truly striking. It’s about making each piece feel tailor-made, no matter who’s wearing it.

6. If there was one Hollywood personality you would want to dress, who would it be? 

Tom Cruise for sure!

7. Any tips to ace gender-neutral dressing?

When it comes to gender-neutral dressing, it’s all about what feels right to you. I’ve never been one for labels—why limit your style just because a piece is tagged for a certain gender? If you love it, wear it. Especially with gender-neutral looks, it’s about feeling confident and comfortable, letting your style speak for itself. For me, there are no rules here—only the freedom to express yourself. It’s less about fitting in and more about how what you wear makes you feel. There’s no right or wrong—just your way.

9. What drove your foray into real estate and what can we expect from it?

The world has yet to witness what Indian design stalwarts can achieve in the realm of branded real estate. As a designer, I’m always looking for opportunities to expand my horizons. For years, we’ve been telling stories with fabric, texture, and form, so moving into real estate was a natural extension of our passion for design and craftsmanship. We have joined Boheim’s roster to design a Boheim Home in Colvale, Goa. We both believe in creating experiences that go beyond the surface—whether it’s a handcrafted garment or a meticulously designed home, the goal is to offer something deeply personal, culturally rich, and timelessly elegant.

 

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10. Your thoughts on the trend of collaborations and which ones have caught your eye?

I’m all for collaborations—they’re the future of fashion. I’ve always believed in the power of ‘stronger together’, and there is a thrill when two brands—whether they share a similar vibe or come from completely different worlds—team up to create something fresh. It’s that unexpected fusion that makes the magic happen.

As a product-obsessed guy, I live for the excitement of new drops that wouldn’t exist without these partnerships. Right now, I’m eyeing those Comme des Garçons x New Balance loafers, and for winter, the Moncler x Rick Owens collab is on my radar.  The Rahul Mishra x Tod’s was a masterclass in merging creative minds. This is where fashion is headed, and it’s a ride I’m ready for.