“We Took Inspiration From The World And Brought It Back To India,” Say Designer Duo Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna

Our journey in fashion began in the late 1990s, at a time when we were nobodies, navigating the heart of New York’s MTV fashion boom —a time when Indian designers were primarily focused on wedding attire and traditional ensembles. But we knew, deep down, that India was on the cusp of a global change, and we saw an opportunity to bring something new to the table. Looking back now, through the alleys and walkways of the many cities we’ve visited, it’s incredible to see how our fashion journey spanning over three decades has turned our dreams into reality.

The 90s, Early Labels And Discovering Ourselves

After travelling through New York and London we saw something that we couldn’t shake off: super speciality stores. In a world overtaken by massive department stores, one shop in New York chose to sell only socks—every kind you could imagine. We spotted another one in London who did the same for ties. I remember standing in these fashion meccas, with their modern architecture- cities built for hyper-functionality, and we saw these niche stores as representative of the voice of the people through their craftsmanship. We returned to India with a vision to create modern, affordable, sharply tailored designer shirts that weren’t available in the market at that time.

In 1996-97, we launched two brands—H2O and Q. H2O that offered every kind of shirt imaginable, from printed and fitted styles to day and evening shirts. This concept was unheard of in India at the time. The success of H2O led us to launch a women’s line, catering to the growing corporate culture. We introduced office wear for women, a move that was instantly embraced by the Indian market. We were just two kids selling shirts for Rs 2,500, firmly convinced that men and women in London and New York shared the same hopes and dreams, as those in Mumbai and Delhi.

The Evolution Of Our Creative Direction

Our creative direction has always been deeply influenced by our travels and our love for art and culture. As art collectors, our holidays revolve around visiting museums, from Milan to Hong Kong to Vietnam. We’ve drawn inspiration from artists, architecture, and the vibrant cultures we’ve encountered.

One of our collections was inspired by the architecture of Zaha Hadid, the iconic Iraqi British architect, artist and designer who is famous for her futuristic style. We find ourselves drawn to the interplay of abstract and geometric elements, often dividing lines and spaces in our designs. Our obsession with geometry has us plan every detail just like an architect who sweats over every brick —from how much embroidery is exactly right to whether to cover the full back of a garment or leave one arm bare.

Over the years, our aesthetic at Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna designs has evolved. We started with a focus on stripes, checks, diamonds, and graphic shapes. Recently, especially post COVID, we’ve been exploring floral abstracts and it’s a change we’re excited about as we believe design is all about exploring new things. This transfer of patterns is reflective of the cities we visit. Our fashion era of straight lines was dominated by our time spent in New York studying gridlocks, while our abstracts followed our architectural indulgence with classic French and Russian palaces.

Of Fashion Capitals And Iconic Inspirations

Speaking of inspirations, our journey through fashion capitals has significantly shaped our brand. New York, where we showed at the Coterie from 2000 to 2015, influenced our ready-to-wear collections. The city’s eclectic style inspired us to create versatile pieces that could be worn in multiple ways.

Later, we moved to Paris with Renoir, which pushed us towards creating more exclusive, evening-wear pieces. Our visits to Versailles and St. Petersburg were hugely transformative; the opulence, the gold, and metallics of these palaces sparked a shift in our design aesthetic. Five years ago, after these visits, we decided to focus more on couture.

As for iconic designers, my inspirations have evolved over time. We’ve been fans of Emporio Armani, Donna Karan, and Yohji Yamamoto at different points. Currently, we’re excited about Haider Ackermann who has taken over as the new creative director of Tom Ford. But as designers, we believe in constant exploration and change, so our favourites keep evolving.

Secret Recommendations And Global Fashion Markets

We love exploring hidden pockets around the world for sourcing materials for our collections. Guangzhou in China is a treasure trove for everything from small beads to intricate embellishments. In India, we go to Kashmir for yarn and Ludhiana for the best wool and cashmere.

 

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Internationally, we’ve explored the downtown district in New York for its small lace market, Florence for net and lace, and Amsterdam for its denim industry. But honestly, when we come back to India, we’re always amazed by the incredible diversity of materials and crafts available right here.

For art enthusiasts, I’d recommend visiting our own Palette Art Gallery in Delhi. We’ve been running it for 20 years, encouraging younger artists, and highlighting established masters. We regularly participate in Art Basel and Art Miami and are always on the lookout for fresh talent. As designers, we’re desperate for the world to see beauty and appreciate craft—the art gallery is our way of celebrating that unique, diverse Indian aesthetic.

The Evolution Of Fashion: India And Beyond

The Indian fashion landscape has changed dramatically since we started. In the past, India used to follow Western trends with a year or two delay. But with the advent of social media, particularly Instagram and Facebook, this lag has disappeared.

Now, we’re designing for a global citizen, not just for an Indian or Asian market. Our designs are seen worldwide within minutes of being posted on Instagram, and we receive orders from places as diverse as Helsinki, Stockholm, and Peru.

 

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The rise of numerous fashion icons—from Lady Gaga to K-pop stars— has also contributed to this global melting pot of style. We’ve gone from having five major fashion icons to thousands—each bringing their unique flair to the global fashion scene.

Indian Fashion On The Global Stage

If you ask us what appeals globally about Indian fashion, we will say it is the texture, the sincerity of the garment, and the hours of handcrafting that go into each designer piece. It’s not machine-made; it’s a labour of love and skill.

Interestingly, our journey has come full circle. We started by drawing inspiration from our travels to international fashion capitals. Now, we’re taking contemporary Indian aesthetics—influenced by our rich artistic heritage and the talents of young Indian artists—back to those same fashion capitals.

It’s a beautiful exchange; we took something from those countries, and now we’re giving something uniquely Indian back to the world. This blend of global inspiration and local talent is what defines RGRK today, and we’re excited to continue this journey of creative exploration and cultural exchange.