For more than two decades, designer duo Gauri and Nainika have defined their eponymous label as a western couture brand. It is guided by European fashion, music, history, art, and Hollywood glamour where the Delhi-based designers have often looked up to classic Hollywood heroines such as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly for their timeless dressing. Imagine Hepburn’s staples like peter-pan collars, body-skimming separates, retro-cocktail swing dresses to Kelly’s voluminous tulle skirts, sweet-heart necklines, and shirtwaist dresses many of which have been a source of inspiration for Gauri and Nainika.
However, for the first time since the label’s inception in January 2002, Gauri and Nainika have come up with a unique Indian wear edit. For them, it is not about redefining the brand DNA, but expanding the horizon of imagination. The result is a well-crafted capsule edit that is suitable for Indian shape while staying true to the labels signature of European-inspired aesthetics, delicate prints, floral fantasy, ballroom dressing, and use of ethereal airy fabrics.
Indo-western fusion
As we first stepped inside their Lado Sarai store, we were pleasantly surprised — from the drama of ruffled lehengas with fluted blouse, sultry one-shoulder anarkalis, embroidered angrakhas, to delicate lattice sarees, crop top with flared skirts, and peplum top with tulle skirt, Indian silhouettes married European design elements.
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Our eyes poetically moved from one European detailing to another aided by the visual relief provided by soft, washed-out hues of baby pinks, ivory, dark teal, peach, white, and green to exceptions, like tone-on-tone red and turquoise. The label also harked on Chinoiserie — a decorative style in western art, furniture and architecture, characterised by the use of Chinese motifs which featured on the collection’s pieces along with zardozi embroidery, a hallmark of Indian bridal wear.
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The house kept its floral ecstasy intact. We spotted rose creepers and wildflower motifs seeping in a brooding romanticism. Further, tulle, a long-standing signature of the brand and a nod to its love for ballet, appeared in voluminous skirts paired with silk bodices. “We are very excited to present an Indian collection for the first time. The collection is an extension of our brand’s DNA where we stayed true to our sensibility — light, romantic, feminine. We approached Indian silhouettes the same way we’ve always approached design — with a deep understanding of the female form. At first, it felt unfamiliar, but once we began it flowed naturally. It was just about translating what we already knew into something new,” said Gauri & Nainika.
Delicate Cutwork
The label’s expertise in flattering cutwork was also evident. For instance, gowns featured plunging necklines for those who don’t shy away from boldness. Silk organza dupattas were ruffled, and tie-up fluted blouses in sharp cuts were held with noodle straps. Embellished chest panels were crafted with ruffles on edges for visual allure, while ceremonial high-collars in angrakhas were borrowed from the 18th century French embroidery.
The cutwork ensured that the brand does justice to bringing out feminine allure, accentuating the curves of the women with precision. As this Indian capsule bridged cultures, it felt familiar yet distinctly reimagined.
