India Couture Week 2025 closed with a royal flair and refined storytelling as celebrated couturier JJ Valaya presented his latest collection ‘East’. Held in the heart of New Delhi, the finale wasn’t just a spectacle of silhouettes and shimmer—it was a deeply personal celebration marking Valaya’s 33-year journey in Indian fashion. Known for his grandeur-meets-grit aesthetic, the designer once again proved why he remains a pillar of couture in the country.
With East, Valaya turned his gaze towards Oriental artistry, weaving in motifs, embroideries, and architectural influences from regions like China, Japan, and Korea, while staying rooted in Indian textile traditions. The result was a collection that danced between structure and softness—floor-grazing anarkalis, structured jackets, delicate kimono-style overlays, and richly embroidered lehengas. His signature use of velvets, silks, and brocades was punctuated with newer, bolder surface techniques, blending Indian zardozi with East Asian dragon scales, koi waves, and bamboo motifs.
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Each piece in the collection told a story of travel, time, and transcendence. The colour palette moved between deep ruby, imperial blue, ivory gold, and oxidised bronze, evoking a sense of opulent nostalgia. Belts, capes, and Valaya’s iconic mark of the ‘Alika’ jacket were modernised for the new-age bride and groom who appreciate history with a modern heartbeat.
As if the grandeur of the garments wasn’t enough, the designer pulled a double delight for his showstoppers—Rasha Thadani and Ibrahim Ali Khan, both making memorable couture debuts. Rasha, daughter of Raveena Tandon, looked ethereal in a structured ivory lehenga with silver filigree work, paired with a matching cape and a sleek bun that channelled both elegance and poise. Her look was softened with fresh, dewy makeup, echoing the quiet strength of Valaya’s muse.
On the other side of the runway, Ibrahim Ali Khan, son of Saif Ali Khan and a promising actor in his own right, made a commanding presence in a tailored black sherwani jacket with layered embellishments and a hand-embroidered stole. His ensemble spoke of regality with restraint, a signature of Valaya’s menswear legacy. Together, the duo offered a glimpse of a new generation ready to embrace heritage through a renewed lens.
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Valaya, who has often described himself as a ‘modern-day nomad with a vintage soul,’ brought his philosophy to life with this collection. East wasn’t just about borrowing motifs from distant lands; it was about uniting legacies, imagining global stories stitched into Indian couture. The show closed with a standing ovation, a tribute not just to the mastery of the moment but to 33 years of unwavering craftsmanship and vision.
As the curtains fell on India Couture Week 2025, East reminded us that fashion can still be slow, soulful, and spectacular. JJ Valaya may have looked East for inspiration this time, but his message remains universal—luxury lies in legacy.
