“The Most Difficult Task Is To Reinvent Yourself While Staying True To Yourself“: Says CEO, Stefano Canali

It was a night to remember of style—a grand celebration marking the 90th anniversary of an iconic Italian brand renowned for dressing men with unparalleled sartorial finesse. Hosted at Mumbai’s IFBE, the high-octane soirée was adorned with swan motifs—a nod to Canali’s origins, now reimagined to honour this significant milestone, the event drew a glittering crowd of Bollywood’s most stylish stars, influential business leaders, and Mumbai’s elite, all impeccably dressed to impress. Grooving to live musical performances, DJ-spins and Canali cocktails, the evening was everything Canali stands for.

As part of a travelling party circuit to kick off the 90th anniversary celebrations, which began at Palazzo Reale in Milan in June 2024 and then moved through Beijing, New York, and finally India, the highlight of the evening was the unveiling of Canali’s Anniversary Capsule Collection —a tribute to the brand’s iconic overcoats and suits. Canali’s deep connection to India dates back 20 years—long before many other luxury and premium brands set their sights on the country. The brand opened their latest flagship Mumbai boutique at the Jio World Plaza in Bandra-Kurla Complex in 2024.

Just minutes before the fashion party started, I sat down with Stefano Canali, CEO and President of the Canali Group, to discover their secret to staying stylish through nine decades, their enduring love for India, and more about the global 90th anniversary celebrations. “It is our way to show gratitude to all the people that made this momentous landmark possible,” says Stefano Canali, CEO and President of the Canali Group. With India as the final leg of these celebrations, Canali reaffirms its commitment to this thriving market. “The fact that we decided to organise and set up a celebration here in India is a confirmation of the importance we place on the Indian market and the potential we see in it.”

As the brand heads towards its centennial year, Canali—founded in 1934—continues to stand apart in the era of fast fashion. With over 190 boutiques and a presence in more than 1,000 retail stores across 100 countries, Canali remains one of the few independent, family-run businesses still anchored in the tradition of fine tailoring, now proudly managed by its third generation.

Edited excerpts

1. Tell us more about Canali’s 90-year celebrations.

A. It’s been an intense year, because we took the opportunity to set up many celebrations for this very important milestone of Canali. We celebrated in Milan, New York, Beijing, and in Mumbai. We’re very proud of this achievement and it was our way to show gratitude to all the people that made this result possible, and this included family members, colleagues, suppliers, stakeholders and the likes. India holds a special place in our journey, as we entered this market 20 years ago. So far, we have achieved very good results. On one hand, we’re very satisfied with the results. However, we believe there’s still immense potential here, and we’re excited to explore and grow further in this dynamic market.

2. Tell us about Canali’s enduring love for India.

A. We discovered many parallels between Indian and Italian cultures, from shared family values to the passion for luxury and heritage. India’s rich history, particularly its connection to the grandeur of the Maharaja era, resonated deeply with us. This cultural alignment inspired us to establish a long-standing relationship with the Indian market. Our journey began with the opening of a store at the iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai. A decade later, in the early 2010s, we expanded our retail footprint and deepened our connection with India. We identified a strong affinity for formal wear, tailored suiting, and, notably, Bandhgala jackets. Recognising this, we introduced our interpretation of the Bandhgala, called the Nawab collection in 2014, to suit Indian tastes. These jackets were very useful in making sure that Canali became the top of mind among our customers. We leveraged our expertise and the evolution of the collection to make sure that customers get to know about the whole proposal by Canali. And that’s what we’re doing right now.

3. How do you keep up with local market specific trends?

A. Yes, we decide to pay homage to a specific market while respecting and addressing unique local needs. For a global brand like Canali, it’s important to make sure that the brand is perceived as a global brand in every single market. So, you have to find the right balance between localisation and globalisation. For instance, as far as the Indian market is concerned, the Bandhgala project was very successful and a perfect blend of this philosophy.

4. From a global perspective, what do you think of Indian fashion and where is it headed?

A. I sense a lot of positive energy and creativity coming from India’s design community. I know of any emerging designers who have already made a strong impact, and I’ve had the pleasure of meeting a couple of them. They are incredibly talented, knowledgeable, and driven, with immense potential to emerge on the global stage. As a matter of fact, some of them have already done so, perhaps in the future, we might strike a cooperation deal or so (laughs).

5. How do you stay relevant amidst evolving men’s fashion trends through the decades?

A. The most difficult task to accomplish is to reinvent itself while staying true to yourself.  For Canali, this means maintaining credibility over time while evolving according to our customers’ changing preferences. Our DNA, rooted in high-quality craftsmanship and high-quality fabrics, is consistently executed in every product we create. For instance, if you consider our latest Lifestyle Collection—it’s the kind of modern lifestyle interpreted by Canali infused in every single piece belonging to the collection. You see one cohesive colour palette and high-quality craftsmanship throughout this collection. High-quality craftsmanship is evident in every piece—from shoes and sweaters to jackets, outerwear, and suits. If you ask what has changed over the past years? Its shape, lightness, materials. While the essence of a jacket remains timeless, the construction, materials, and silhouette have evolved significantly.

In contrast to the structured power suits of the ’90s or early 2000s, today’s jackets are lighter, more flexible, and tailored to contemporary lifestyles. Power suits, the uniform for professionals like lawyers, have transformed to meet the needs of a new generation.

Younger customers, for instance, pair tailored jackets with chinos, denim, or even sneakers—blurring the lines between formal and casual. Our Lifestyle Collection allows for effortless mix-and-match styling, enabling Canali customers to create looks that reflect their personal taste. For our 90th-anniversary capsule collection, we reinterpreted classic icons like the trench coat and suits with a fresh perspective. Every piece in this collection—spanning shoes, outerwear, and accessories—is unified by a signature colour, verde brillante, a nod to our heritage and a celebration of Canali’s timeless elegance.

And last but not least, we have brought back the Canali swan, introduced in our collections during the 1950s, symbolising values such as respect, elegance, and timeless sophistication. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the swan carries deeper meaning—it’s a waterproof animal by nature, which ties directly to Canali’s prominence as a market leader in the raincoat business at the time. A timeless emblem of our brand indeed.

6. Who, according to you, is the Canali man?

Oh, he’s a very demanding man. A man who is very interested in quality. He seeks clothing that is contemporary, versatile and effortlessly understated with an understated elegance. This man has an appreciation for what we call “whisper luxury”—a subtle and refined approach to luxury. If you were to describe the Canali man’s personality, he is understated yet expressive, someone who conveys his identity through his choices while valuing the story and ethos behind the brand. He believes in true sustainability, inner beauty, and authenticity—qualities that define both him and the essence of Canali.

7. Do you think luxury and e-commerce go hand-in-hand?

E-commerce will always complement physical stores rather than replace them. For a luxury brand like Canali, it’s very important to make sure that the customer lives an experience and the most valuable experiences are those created within our brick-and-mortar stores. While e-commerce serves as a convenient tool—ideal for quick purchases while traveling or on the go—it lacks the depth and richness of a true luxury experience. We put a lot of emphasis on the experience to the extent that we are working on extending the brand experience even beyond the borders of the stores. And that’s the reason why, we embarked on a very interesting project called Café Canali in China. Café Canali is a place where a customer can enter and get a taste of what Canali is all about, because you can have something to drink and eat, that is 100% Italian. From the coffee to the brewing machine to the grinder machine to the recipes— everything is Italian with a global twist, of course. So, when you walk from the store to the café and vice versa, you have a seamless experience.

8. Are there any plans of bringing Café Canali to India anytime?

A. Not yet—Café Canali is still a new concept for us, and we are focused on further developing it. The priority right now is refining the experience and ensuring it aligns with our brand values. For a luxury brand, extending the customer experience is crucial, and Café Canali is a way for us to enhance the desirability of the brand.

9. What’s your advice for brands who want to be a legacy fashion house like yours?

It all starts with a unique and strong idea. If you’re simply trying to replicate what others have already done, it’s not worth pursuing. What truly matters is having talent, a vision, and the ability to express your ideas in an original way. Remember that finance is just a tool—. Ideas, perseverance and commitment are the key ingredients to create something lasting and meaningful in the fashion world.