A lush lawn, a garden bench, a serene view that slowly transports your mind to a slower time, a quieter time, when leisure wasn’t a luxury. Away from Goa’s beaches and party scenes, is Salcette district, where Curtorim village lies. Ensconced in the village is Mansao Curtorim by CGH Earth Saha. If you’re looking for a getaway in Goa, which isn’t about parties and beaches, this is the place to be. The property is a 236-year-old Portuguese house, which was owned by one Costa family for generations. Carefully restored by the CGH group, the property houses six spacious bedrooms. I stayed at, what is called the Zuari room, that opened up to a private balcony that led to the lawn. Salcette, mainly inhabited by Saraswat Brahmins, was an important centre from where the Bhoj and Kadamba dynasties ruled the state, before the Portuguese colonised it.
The 1.5-acre property overlooks a seasonal lake that is surrounded by paddy fields. Mansao has inviting open areas – ideal for reading or simply letting your thoughts wander. One could, of course, choose not to do much during the stay. But, it would be a great choice to check out at least a couple of immersive activities offered to the guests. Life of Pao, curated by Soul Travelling, a tour operator, was a fun, humbling experience. Godinho’s bakery, which is about 100-years-old, is now run by third generation baker, 78-year-old Joao Godinho.
The experience takes you through stories of how pao (Portuguese for bread) came to be a Goan staple; how they entrusted the task of making paos to the kshatriyas who had converted to Christianity and how toddy came to be used to ferment the dough for pao. The slow pace of the process, might get those used to living on the fast lane a tad antsy, but, the feeling eventually settles and the process of shaping the breads – loni bread and poee – and the synchronised lining of the breads into the limestone oven, is mesmerising. And as the breads get cooked and rise, and turn evenly brown, a tantalising smell wafts through the bakery. And customers start lining up for the bread way before opening time– 4pm. Once the bread is ready, Mr Godinho lets you sample it with chai or lemon soda. This is an experience one mustn’t miss!
History buffs have another treat waiting for them, in the form of another immersive experience, curated by The Local Beat, a tour operator. This experience will take you through the villages of Chandor and Rachol. Situated on the left bank of the Zuari river, Rachol is home to the Rachol Seminary, the oldest seminary in Asia. The seminary is over 416 years old. The church attached to the seminary is simply beautiful with its baroque adorned walls, and niches holding figurines of saints. Both the seminary and the church were built on Portuguese architecture designs. Donations from Portugal’s king at the time, Dom Sebastiao.
At Chandor we–me, guided by Raul D’Costa, co-founder of The Local Beat visited one of the oldest Portuguese homes in Goa, the Menezes Braganza house, which is about 350 years old. The resplendent home is a treasure trove of antiques and artefacts including Venetian windows, porcelain from Macau, Belgian chandeliers and more. Also part of the tour on day two were pre-historic stone carvings and Buddhist caves.
Hearty home style Goan food is at the heart of Mansao’s culinary offerings. Be it Xacuti and pao breakfasts or sumptuous fish thalis accompanied by sol kadi or pork vindaloo dinners, the food is surely a treat, especially for first-timers. The entire property is simply a superb place to be, walk around, let your thoughts wander or simply soak in nature. The staff is warm and quite intuitive to guests’ needs.
With its tiled high ceilings, handpicked antique furniture and artefacts, the spacious rooms with vintage bakelite switches are simply charming. The original structure has been retained, with steps leading to a porch with red oxide seats on both sides; a verandah wrapping around the front and there’s a large living room; a spacious kitchen and an al-fresco cafe style dining area. The neighbourhood in itself is not ‘happening’ or a great ‘hang’. This is, however, the place to be, if you want a break from North Goa’s packed bars, shacks and the beach scene. Watching ducks and other fowl floating idly, or just parking yourself on the garden bench and reading, this is the place for the slow, mindful traveler. However, if you still crave for beaches, Benaulim, Varca and Colva are about a 35-minute drive away. The idea, on the whole, is to take a pause, walk around the village, visit a local chapel, or go cycling along the paddy fields.
Mansao isn’t a play to stay, its a place to be!
