Dining At Geneva’s L’Atelier Robuchon Is A Love Letter To Modern French Cuisine

The fine dining scene in Geneva is nothing short of spectacular. Surrounded by Alpine peaks, and the gorgeous Lac Léman as the backdrop, this city—home to haute horlogerie—boasts a culinary landscape dominated by Michelin-starred restaurants. Among its culinary gems and top Michelin-rated restaurants, the L’Atelier Robuchon located in the basement of The Woodward Hotel stands out as the only two-star Michelin restaurant in the city. The restaurant achieved its first Michelin star within a year of opening and its second in the following year—a truly remarkable feat.

Over the years I have eaten at some excellent restaurants in Geneva, but the expectations from the L’Atelier Robuchon were sky high. After all, I was dining at one of the legendary French chef’s world famous Ateliers that represents a contemporary approach to fine dining,  For those unaware, the French chef, Joël Robuchon, who earned a record number of Michelin stars was also named “Chef of the Century” by Gault&Millau in 1989 and also ran a culinary emprire around the world. Today, his restaurant group, JR International, is carrying forward his world of culinary excellence and comprises 23 Michelin stars across 14 countries, 12 unique restaurant concepts, ranging from the original L’Atelier Robuchon to the inviting Le Deli Robuchon.

On a rainy day in Geneva, I slipped out for lunch from a conference I was attending at a nearby lakefront hotel, and walked into the L’Atelier Robuchon to check out what makes chef Olivier Jean one of the hottest young chefs in the world today, at just 38 years.

Inside L’Atelier Robuchon

L’Atelier Robuchon has a direct entrance from the Quai Wilson, overlooking the stunning Lac Léman. Its intimate setup includes a 36-seat counter surrounding an open kitchen, a main dining room, and two private lounges. Seated at the counter, I could watch the staff move quietly around the open kitchen to plate our dishes to artistry and perfection. The restaurant offers an immersive experience of modern French haute cuisine. Chef Jean Olivier takes the legacy of the genius ‘chef of the century’, Joël Robuchon, forward by pairing new ideas with a refined mix of fresh and fine ingredients from all parts of the world, ushering a fresh approach to Robuchon’s classics. The simplicity and consistency of flavours underscore every dish meticulously plated by the chefs in an open kitchen right in front of you. Though the tasting menu is a good representation of what’s on offer, I chose the small plate menu that allowed more variety in smaller sizes.

A Feast to Remember

Opting for a fine Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan, a Bordeaux red wine, to accompany the meal, I began the meal with Robuchon’s iconic Imperial Caviar and Crab on Lobster Jelly. This visually dramatic dish exceeded expectations with its intricate layers: sweet king crab, luxurious lobster jelly, and a crowning of Imperial caviar. Next came the Steamed Soufflé with AOP Gruyere, with Basil, Simmered Artichokes. And boy, this hit the right note from when the gruyere was being grated on the soufflé. Highly aromatic, this dish unexpectedly stole the show and was the star dish for me.

My culinary experiments continued with the immaculate Roasted Langoustines and Seabass Fillets and Razor Clams. I was quick to spot just the right dash of spice on the menu and the Seared Blue Lobster seasoned with Black Malabar Pepper hit the sweet spot with a burst of bright coloured ingredients adding to the contrast. It tasted just as good as it looked with the spices adding subtly to the perfectly seared blue lobster. Already full, but daring to go further, I decided to try chef Olivier’s signature Swiss Alpine Beef and Foie Gras, Rossini style seasoned with vintage Porto to end my meal.

Finishing with the savoury courses, I turned my attention to the desserts. Pastry Chef at The Woodward, Titouan Claudet, recently named 2025 Pastry Talent of the Year by La Liste, International Selection, crafted a dessert experience like no other. Titouan’s Tiramisu Mousse flavoured with buckwheat, whisky liqueur, and vanilla espresso sauce was an explosion of textures and flavours, unlike any other tiramisu I ever had. This was followed by the delightful Melba Soufflé and Sea-salt-infused Chocolate.

My meal ended with a conversation with chef Titouan over coffee at Le Jardinier, The Woodward’s terrace café overlooking Lac Léman. Speaking on his journey and the recent awards the 31-year-old pastry chef commented, “It’s a matter of pride and honour for me personally and my team. It’s a recognition of the daily hard work and dedication of my team. I would particularly like to mention Iris Lau, my sous-chef. When I was an intern at a three-star Michelin restaurant in Burgundy, I did two months of training with the pastry chef. I liked the way they thought and created it. That’s when I decided to be a pastry chef and not a chef. Then I had the opportunity to move with the same chef to another three-star Michelin restaurant in Lyon. Then work took me to Courchevel, at an only dessert restaurant which also has a two-star Michelin restaurant. When The Woodward opened in Geneva, I joined them as the Pastry Chef.”

To know more about the culinary philosophy of L’Atelier Robuchon Genève, I picked the brains of chef Olivier Jean who has been helming the kitchen. Chef Jean, who has spent six years as the head of the Taipei-based L’Atelier Robuchon, amongst others in Miami and New York, has scripted a new chapter for himself and L’Atelier Robuchon Genève.

Edited excerpts

1. L’Atelier Robuchon carries the legacy of the greatest chef of the century, Joël Robuchon, and is present in many cities across the world. Do you see running a restaurant that carries the name of Chef Robuchon a responsibility, an honour, a challenge or an exciting opportunity?

Having been part of L’Atelier Robuchon for the last 15 years, and having had the privilege of opening seven restaurants during that time, I can confidently say that it is both a responsibility and an honour to carry on the legacy of Chef Joël Robuchon. Each restaurant presents its own unique challenge, but it’s also an exciting opportunity to evolve the concept. The tastes and expectations of guests vary across different parts of the world, which means we must continuously adapt, and innovate to meet those demands. It’s always a deeply emotional experience to be part of a team that is helping to grow and develop the Robuchon brand, and I take great pride in contributing to its continued success.

2. Getting a Michelin star within a year of operation and two stars within two years is an incredible feat. How did your team achieve it?

Achieving a Michelin star in our first year and a second star within two years is indeed an extraordinary accomplishment. This success was made possible by the collective effort of everyone—from the kitchen to the front of house—who worked in harmony towards a shared goal. Our main goal has always been to not only deliver outstanding cuisine and service but to also share emotions and create lasting memories. By doing so, we were able to exceed expectations and provide our guests with an unforgettable experience, which is what truly matters.

3. L’Atelier Robuchon stands for French haute cuisine presented in a great environment and fantastic presentation. How do you assign importance to the three in making a successful fine dining establishment today?

At L’Atelier Robuchon, we strive to seamlessly integrate all three elements—taste, environment, and presentation—to create a truly exceptional dining experience. For us, taste is always the top priority. It begins with using the finest quality ingredients as the quality of the produce directly impacts the flavours we deliver. However, it’s not just about the food; the environment plays a crucial role in enhancing the overall experience, offering guests a warm and inviting atmosphere where they feel immersed in the moment. Presentation, too, is essential in conveying the artistry behind our dishes, elevating the experience visually while complementing the flavours. When all three elements work in harmony, we achieve a dining experience that is both memorable and refined.

4. What are your personal influences of growing up and travelling over the years that influence your dishes?

My personal influences as a chef have been shaped by my travels and experiences working in diverse regions like Mexico, India, and Asia. These cultures have deeply inspired me, and I draw from their bold flavours, unique ingredients, and culinary techniques to infuse new perspectives into my dishes. However, above all, the most important influence comes from the feedback I receive from our guests, it helps me refine and adapt my approach. I believe that being a great manager is just as important as being a devoted chef; only by focusing on quality, can we create dishes that highlight the ingredients and elevate the dining experience.

5. Name three chefs who inspire you.

Alain Ducasse – His approach to vegetables and his culinary philosophy have had a profound impact on me. He emphasises the importance of respecting ingredients and focusing on their natural flavours, which aligns with my own approach to cuisine.

Joël Robuchon – Not only for his exceptional cuisine, but also for the way he embodied the values of mentorship and leadership. His ability to inspire and teach, alongside his dedication to excellence, has left a lasting influence on my own career.

Patrick Henriroux – His wisdom and guidance that he provided during my early career were invaluable. His mentorship was instrumental in shaping my approach to both the craft and the responsibilities of being a chef.

6. Name three favourite restaurants.

Paul Bocuse, Lyon – For its timeless authenticity and the way it embodies traditional French cuisine at its finest. The quality and consistency of the dishes are unparalleled, and it’s a true homage to the legacy of Chef Bocuse.

Palais de Chine, Taipei – I admire the restaurant for its exceptional blend of authentic Asian flavours and modern techniques. It showcases a perfect balance of tradition and innovation, and the experience is always memorable.

Shake Shack – While it’s a more casual choice, I appreciate Shake Shack for its focus on simplicity and quality. It’s a great example of how great ingredients and a well-executed concept can elevate even the most straightforward dishes.

7. Any specific take on Indian cuisine and any ingredient from India that has made it to your kitchen?

Indian cuisine has a profound influence on my cooking, particularly in its use of spices, which I believe can elevate any dish when used thoughtfully.

8. You are very young to make a significant mark in the culinary world. How did you achieve so much so soon?

At 38 years old, I’ve been fortunate to have had 18 years of experience in the culinary world, which has allowed me to grow and refine my skills. My success is built on perseverance, dedication, commitment to my craft and the courage to take risks. I’ve always believed in pushing myself to be better every day, whether in the kitchen or as a leader.

9. What legacy do you want to leave as a chef?

As a chef, the legacy I hope to leave is one of transmission, kindness, and gentleness. I believe it’s important to pass on knowledge, not just through technique, but also by fostering an environment, where respect and compassion are central. I want to create a legacy that draws from diverse cultures and flavours, embracing the richness of the global culinary world while also nurturing the next generation of chefs to carry forward this ethos.