India Couture Week 2025: Amit Aggarwal On ‘Arcanum’—The Design Philosophy And Inspiration Behind His Latest Collection

There was a palpable sense of tension and anticipation in the air—and rightly so. Whispers circulated about a certain designer celebrated for his futuristic vision. “Let’s see what he does this year,” was the phrase on everyone’s lips. In his 40 minute act, what he did was channel the ‘inner’ beauty of life—crafting a collection that felt beyond most people’s understanding.

DNA being the central focus of Aggarwal’s couture narrative, we spotted his signature craftsmanship in a future-forward approach that felt almost like an extension of his previous couture collection ‘Antevorta’.

Read on as the courtier chats with us on the success of Arcanum, bridal wear in India, trends for the season and a potential global expansion.

How are you feeling today?

Ah, today… I feel like silk caught in the wind – fluid, expressive, yet grounded with intent. Especially now, with ICW just behind us and the show having unfolded beautifully, there’s a quiet euphoria in the air. The response has been overwhelming, and to see our vision resonate so deeply, it’s humbling. It was more than fashion; it was emotion sculpted in fabric. There’s a stillness now… The kind that only comes after something meaningful has been released into the world.

Last year, Antevorta set a powerful tone for what Indian contemporary and esoteric couture could become. Your collection received widespread acclaim. Do you feel any pressure to live up to that benchmark this year?

Antevorta was a defining moment, not just for the brand, but for the voice of Indian contemporary couture on a global stage. It was deeply personal, almost prophetic in the way it envisioned transformation and the rebirth of identity. The response it received was both humbling and energising.

So yes, there is always pressure but I don’t see it as a burden. It’s more like a responsibility; to evolve, to challenge ourselves, and to push the language of material and form further. Every collection is a dialogue with the past and a step into the unknown. The pressure isn’t to replicate success, but to remain honest, fearless, and relevant. If I can continue to create pieces that make people feel, then I know I’m still on the right path.

What inspired your couture collection this year?

Arcanum is a meditation on identity, essence, and transformation. The idea of using DNA as the narrative core emerged from a deeply personal reflection on what defines us beneath the surface. In couture, we often speak of heritage, of craftsmanship passed through generations. But I began to wonder, what if we traced that heritage deeper, beyond fabric and form to the very code that shapes who we are?

DNA is the most intimate archive of existence. It holds not only our biology but also a spiritual and emotional resonance. With Arcanum, I wanted to translate that invisible truth into visible expression. Every pleat, every silhouette, every embedded structure in the garments echoes the double helix, the strands of memory, ancestry, and evolution.

The collection is a space where science met soul—where couture is not just worn but embodied. It’s a reminder that even in the hyper-constructed world of fashion, our truest form begins within.

What were some of the challenges you encountered during the creative or production process

Arcanum was one of the most technically challenging collections. It was, without doubt, a demanding process – full of experimentation, trial, and fine recalibration. But it was also extremely fulfilling. Pushing technical boundaries always is. It brought the concept of Arcanum to life in a way that felt both deeply human and almost otherworldly — and that, to me, made every challenge worth it.

Do you believe your couture collection aims to redefine the conventional narrative of luxury in today’s market?

For me, luxury today is about meaning, emotion, and innovation – not just opulence. With Arcanum, I wanted to move beyond surface beauty and create pieces that feel deeply personal, almost sacred. We use unconventional materials and techniques to craft garments that are both sculptural and intimate. In redefining luxury, it’s about making couture a reflection of inner transformation and individuality.

If you had to quote someone or share a moment from the making of the collection that you hold close to your heart—something you’d revisit as an anecdote for Arcanum—what would it be?

There was a moment late one evening in the studio… everyone had left, and I was standing in front of a nearly finished piece. One of the artisans, who had quietly returned to adjust a detail, looked at the garment and said, “Yeh kapda nahin lagta, yeh toh kisi ka andar ka roop hai.” (“This doesn’t feel like fabric—it feels like someone’s inner self.”)

That stayed with me. It captured exactly what Arcanum was meant to be, a reflection of the unseen, the emotional architecture within us. It reminded me that couture isn’t just about design – it’s about creating something that resonates on a human, almost spiritual level.

What’s your take on India Couture Week this year? Which shows or designers stood out for you? Any trends that caught your eye?

India Couture Week this year has truly been a celebration of artistry, emotion, and evolution. It’s been inspiring to witness how designers across the board are pushing the boundaries of what Indian couture can be – rooted in heritage, yet fearlessly forward.

All the designers brought incredibly distinct narratives to the runway. What stood out to me most was the shared language of innovation, whether through reimagined textiles, sculptural silhouettes, or a return to deeply emotional storytelling. There’s a shift happening, where couture is no longer just about spectacle, but about personal resonance. It’s exciting to be part of a space where creativity is not just celebrated, but redefined with every season.

Couture is often closely associated—and sometimes exclusively perceived—with bridal wear. Do you think your collection challenges or redefines the traditional narrative of luxury in today’s market?

Bridal wear has always been a significant part of Indian couture, I believe couture should go beyond occasion. It should be an extension of identity, not just tradition. With Arcanum, my intention was to shift the focus from ceremonial grandeur to emotional depth. The collection speaks to personal transformation, inner power, and individuality.

Luxury today is about innovation, ethical practices and meaning. We used recycled polymers, engineered textiles, and handwork not just for beauty, but to tell a story of evolution. So yes, I do hope this collection redefines the idea of couture, not just as something you wear for a moment, but something that reflects who you are at your core.

What are you most excited about right now? What’s the one thing you’re truly looking forward to? Any future plans you’d like to share?

Right now, I’m most excited about pushing the boundaries of material innovation even further, exploring how ethical practices and technology can coexist with craft in more immersive, emotionally resonant ways.

After Arcanum, I feel a strong pull toward deeper storytelling, perhaps through collaborations that cross disciplines, whether in art, architecture, or digital mediums. There’s something powerful in merging worlds, and I think that’s where the future of couture lies.

We’re also looking at expanding the language of our brand globally. Taking Indian craftsmanship and our unique material aesthetic to new audiences, but without losing the soul of where it all began. So yes, a lot to look forward to, and a lot of stories still waiting to be told.