The Reinvention Of Sunder Nursery With Nisaba As Its Beating Heart

Sunder Nursery, flanking Humayun’s Tomb one of the most beautiful monuments in the Capital, has experienced a thrilling re-birth in recent months. The rejuvenation is the result of a wonderful collaboration between the ASI and the Agha Khan Foundation. They say ‘it takes two to tango’ but sometimes its a ménage a trois that really enlivens things. In this case it is Nibasa that completes the trio. Brainchild of iconic chef Manish Mehrotra that, like a gravitational force, is drawing the young and the young at heart to this beautiful setting to wine and dine, perchance to dream.

A lunch time visit brought a cascade of words to capture its essence- elegant, refined, subtle, and stylish, opulent but not extravagant. Cosmopolitan yet deeply rooted in native soil. Casual fine dining is coming into vogue. Not every one can pull off understated luxury so effortlessly as Manish the Man with the Midas Touch. I first met Manish more than 25 years ago and greatly enjoyed the superb meal we had at the Octopus of the Orient at India Habitat Centre. He was then working with Rohit Khattar and this was before Indian Accent at the Manor, a boutique hotel well hidden in the New Friend’s Colony had heralded the new age of Contemporary Indian food. Since then there have been many imitators to flatter and terms like avant- garde, modern Indian are brandished but barring an exception or two none has matched Manish’s magic. Whenever we met I have been deeply moved by his concern for environment and the health of the planet. He has partnered with Centre for the Science and Environment to encourage people to choose sustainable consumption over mindless indulgence. Crafting delicacies fit for princes he has never lost his common touch.

In the intervening years he has travelled the world, seen and left an indelible imprint in different continents. He has done so sans any confusing fusion and eschewing gimmickry. He is of the view that molecular and nuclear experiments belong to some other labs, not in the Indian kitchen. Food at his restaurants comes beautifully plated, appealing to the eye, but this chef doesn’t strain to impress the diner with the idea that hadn’t he entered the kitchen he would have been competing with disciples of Picasso and his kind. Manish firmly believes that no one eats with the eyes. Tasting is done by the tongue. This is the terrain where a chef’s creativity should register its presence. Understandably, food is the star at Nisaba.

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Where does one begin when every star in the constellation dazzles. The Seekh Kebab is unpretentious yet deeply satisfying, succulent and mildly spiced simply sublime. Not trying to melt in the mouth like the Kakori at times overpoweringly perfumed, it is irresistible glazed with blue cheese butter that you can mop up with the accompanying bread. What left us speechless was the pork ribs with a single thick bone sticking out. Marinated to perfection and lovingly slow cooked with meat falling off it is an invitation to gluttony. The sparkling cutlery remain untouched with such finger licking food. Then there is the Amritsari Machhi with a twist- river sole baked baby potatoes and misrikand.

There are many time tested friends who reassure the guests with their presence. Interesting variations on the daal makhani and makhani paneer. Street foods tweaked to make these even more seductive. At Nisaba one encounters an enthralling confluence of flavours and cooking techniques. Service is personalized but unobtrusive. No diva like tantrums by the celebrity chef here. Informal fine dining that memories are made of. Fine dining has always been aspirational. Nisaba makes it accessible

Nisaba will have seasonally changing menus that will tempt the guests to come again and again. There is no dearth of eateries who claim to bring fresh produce from the ‘farm to fork’ but how many hosts can match the knowledge repertoire of regional cuisines to source ingredients that are available for a few short weeks like Phalsa? It also requires the creative spark to envision what innovation can lift the nostalgic to ecstatic.

Manish exuded a child like delight as he showed us a pinch of dried phalsa powder between his thumb and forefinger. No price too high, no distance too far when ingredients of unmatched quality are to be procured. This reminded me of the time when he had proudly displayed a bottle of home ground East Indian Bottle Masala that he had procured from Goa many moons ago.