Camellia Panjabi didn’t just reshape London’s Indian food scene, she gave it a Bollywood worthy glow up. Her restaurants are less curry houses, more food opera stages where Indian regional cuisine gets a star billing. Let’s rewind to London in 1990. It was a time when Indian food, for most Brits, was long simmered curry houses, elbow to elbow tables, and chicken tikka masala ruling the roost. Delicious? Of course. Ground breaking? Not even close. But then, Chutney Mary swept onto the scene like the protagonist of a Bollywood epic, shimmering, ambitious, and impossible to ignore. It landed in Chelsea as a kind of defiant declaration, Indian cuisine deserved not just respect but reverence. It tackled regional depth, plated dishes like they were works of edible art, and delivered service so smooth it made regular mortals feel kingly for a few hours. The result? By the mid ’90s, Chutney Mary was dinner table gospel. If you were anyone worth name dropping (royalty, rock icons, tennis titans , the whole glittering set) you’d likely been seen dazzling over crab curry and lamb rogan josh here.
For the first time, Indian food wasn’t just one of Britain’s favourite cuisines, it was a luxury worth dressing up for. Fast forward three decades, and this landmark institution has uprooted from its Chelsea home and planted itself in St. James’s, where a quieter kind of opulence reigns.
Stepping into its glowing dining room, feels like being swept onto a set straight out of the Raj, gleaming crystal chandeliers, gilt framed colonial art, etched glass panels, luxury dialled up just shy of extravagant. It’s the kind of place where the food never has to fight for attention, because it’s matched step for step by impeccable vibes. The food? A parade of polished jewels, dabba gosht slips creamy lamb into nutty indulgence, while baked crab balchao hides under crisp topping breadcrumbs.
An Ode To Iconic Flavours
The heart of this celebration lies in its exclusive Chef’s Gourmet Celebration Menu on offer at dinner time (as an option besides a large and decadent a la carte menu). If you’re imagining a greatest hits album, you’re halfway there, only with more intrigue and a touch of genius. It’s eight courses long, designed to spotlight the dishes that built Chutney Mary’s legacy, but with enough innovation to remind you why it’s still one of the most relevant culinary players in London. The 35th Anniversary menu is a carefully curated love letter to Indian cuisine, told through the prism of time, innovation, and an utterly uncompromising quest for culinary excellence. It begins with Tandoori Japanese Wagyu & Marrow, an opening act so decadent, it feels like stepping onto a velvet carpet. Smoky, rich, and seductive, it’s a dish that lingers on the palate like an elegant conversation. But just as you’re basking in the glow of Wagyu, along comes the Mini Tokri Chaat, a member of the menu since 1990, and oh, what a charmer it is!
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Crispy potato basket, spiced vegetables, tangy chutneys, it’s street food fed through a prism of refinement but retaining just enough rebellion to remind you of the chaos of a Delhi bazaar. I admit I gravitated toward the Scallop in Mangalorean Sauce, not because I needed reminding of India’s coastal brilliance, but because it’s hard to say no to a dish that strikes such a poised balance between creamy, fiery, and unpretentious.
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By the time the Two River Layered Kebab paired with mint scented Himalayan Laccha Paratha arrived, I was convinced of one thing, this menu wasn’t just nostalgic; it was a series of deep, respectful nods to the moments that shaped Indian cuisine and, ultimately, Chutney Mary’s legacy. But then came the Tandoori Lobster, clean, smoky, and carnivorously thrilling. Perfectly cooked, it refuses to dazzle with complexity, relying instead on stunning simplicity.
And just as I thought nothing could reset this sensory overload, a Jamun Sorbet rolled in, a purple pause button that delivers sweet respite before diving headfirst into tradition’s deep waters with Lamb Chop Roghan Josh & Yakhani Pulao. And the dessert? Let’s just say it felt less like an ending and more like a continuation…but we’ll get to that.
Sip Elegance, Savour Art
Do not leave without indulging at the Pukka Bar, a space that sparkles not just with its jewel box interiors, but with a cocktail menu designed to please. It’s the kind of place that whispers elegance, where Indian botanicals blend unapologetically with world class mixology. And for someone like me, who secretly judges bars on the poetry in their cocktails, let’s just say, this one speaks fluent Shakespeare.
Take the ‘Saffron Martini’, for instance. Oh, the intrigue. It doesn’t overwhelm with flavour; it captivates. If cocktails were novels, this would be Tolstoy, layered, lasting, but with just the right amount of opulence. I sip once, twice, and suddenly I’m imagining sunsets in Jaipur or the slow sizzle of saffron threads in a gilded pan. It’s an aperitif, but make it art. Then there’s the ‘Clementine & Ginger Martini’, the spirited younger sibling in the mixology family. It’s light-hearted but still hits you with an aromatic punch, a splash of citrus, and just enough ginger to keep things surprising yet sophisticated. You think you know it, but by sip three, it’s done the unexpected. Come to think of it, this duality is the magic of Chutney Mary, classic in form, but woven with contemporary intrigue. Even desserts, like Persian kulfi shaped like citrus slices, indulge in theatrical flair. Indian fine dining, reimagined? This is showtime.
Fact Box
Where: 73 St James’s Street, St James’s, London, SW1A 1PH, United Kingdom
Call: 02076296688
