Fashion history has a way of catching you off guard. The deeper you dig into the origins of sartorial norms, you realise that style is rarely just about aesthetics. It’s about culture, class, politics, and sometimes, sheer absurdity. Back when I was studying at NIFT two years ago, I had the chance to explore the evolution of clothing, though largely through a Eurocentric lens. One detail that piqued my interest? The exaggerated, ballooning sleeves that cinch dramatically at the wrist—once called leg-o-mutton sleeves, named after, yes, a sheep’s leg!
Even in the Indian context, womenswear, for instance, has undergone a striking evolution over the decades. Take “power dressing”—a term now synonymous with female authority and presence. Originally coined to describe women stepping into roles of influence, it was about more than just clothing; it was a visual assertion of equality. Think sharp, structured silhouettes—blazers, tailored suits, strong shoulders—garments that allowed women to quite literally stand shoulder to shoulder with men.
As I continue to explore the shifting narrative of womenswear, I’m repeatedly drawn back to designer duo Shantnu & Nikhil’s recent prêt showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week—a collection that reimagined feminine power through menswear.
Women Of Piazza Nova By S&N
At Lakme Fashion Week, in March, for the designer duo, what began as a showcase of sartorial precision—razor-sharp Italian tailoring, steeped in their signature “Indian proud” detailing—swiftly blurred into something more subversive. The collection’s distinctly masculine codes were distilled, deconstructed, and reimagined for the modern woman.
Piazza Nova, S&N’s Pret collection showcased in late March this year was about introducing a sharper, more international approach to traditional silhouettes. Think bandhgalas with shirts and ties, elevating waistcoats into standalone statement jackets, and infusing classic patterns like houndstooth into the contemporary Indian fashion narrative. Although, Shantu & Nikhil state, “The collection was a focused celebration of menswear—offering modern Indian men a new way to dress with confidence, character, and a global perspective.” It is almost impossible to miss the highlight of their pret show– styling menswear on women.
On the runway, it was Shantnu & Nikhil’s female models who moved with force and stole the spotlight. Their hair poured from their faces, bouncing as they took bold strides. Their gaze held steady, eyes charged with the confidence of women who know exactly what power looks like—and just how effortlessly fashion can wield it.
“With Piazza Nova, we challenged convention by styling menswear on women: sharp bandhgalas, tailored jackets, crisp ties—redefining power dressing through an androgynous, contemporary lens.” adds the designer.
Design Philosophy At Large
While menswear remains Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra’s dominant terrain, their approach to womenswear is anything but secondary. With a design language that’s bold, unexpected, and deeply rooted in self-expression, S&N’s womenswear reads like a love letter to individuality. “Beyond the runway, it’s about versatility—saree gowns with a sultry edge, sculpted corsetry, sharp statement tops, and silhouettes that move with ease,” the duo shares.
At S&N, tradition isn’t something you leave behind—it’s something you carry forward, reimagined for the now. For you, the new-age Indian, it’s not about breaking away from heritage but wearing it with a renewed edge. The house codes remain sacred—but innovation lives in how they evolve. It’s this balance of reverence and reinvention that labels every piece unmistakably S&N, and the something that makes the duo’s heart swell with pride.
A Force To Reckon With: India As A Big Luxury Market
As India has moved far away from doing the balancing act with luxury brands globally, it is on its way of becoming a leading force in the fashion business domain. Promising Indian designers; the keepers of Indian fashion, are tweaking the global fashion narrative by staying true to their roots and designing for what contemporary India desires for. Shantanu and Nikhil being one of them… “India is no longer just a promising luxury market—it’s an undeniable force redefining what modern luxury looks like.”
The design duo has their taste spread across the interests of those who seek detailed Indian precision in the form of couture but with hints of modernity, or those who seek a full spin on the idea of Indian contemporary through their reimagination of pret collections.
“Luxury today is being shaped by a mindset shift—moving from opulence for validation, to craftsmanship for expression. Global brands are increasingly recognizing India’s cultural influence, but there is still room to fully appreciate the nuance, depth, and diversity of the Indian aesthetic. At S&N, we believe the future lies in a confident intersection: where Indian craftsmanship and global aspirations coexist seamlessly, without compromise.” says the duo.
What’s Next
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The designer duo are—quite literally and playfully—on an egg hunt of their own. Shantnu & Nikhil have cracked open a milestone, becoming the first Indian designers to be featured in London’s globally celebrated Fabergé Big Egg Hunt—a high-concept public art and charity event where the city transforms into a treasure map of towering, intricately crafted eggs. Wrapped in the designers’ unmistakable language of structure and soul, the egg wears its history like a garment. Chakra buttons, echoing the Ashoka Chakra, spin tales of resilience and renewal; medallion brooches gleam with the gravity of honour, drawing from the grandeur of military ceremonial dress; and vintage coins, plucked from the archives like heirloom silks, whisper of an India.
As and when the duo touch down in the capital, they’d be gearing up for the launch of their newest venture—Shantnu Nikhil Luxe—a flagship space nestled in Delhi’s ever-evolving Dhan Mill compound, which is expected to open doors around May 25.
True to their ethos, the brand continues to evolve with intention. “At S&N, change isn’t something we react to—it’s something we lead with,” shares the duo.
