Throughout my years as a travel journalist, I have checked into my fair share of the world’s most prestigious glass-and-chrome towers. But nothing quite prepared me for the hushed, historic weight of Dar Tantora, a heritage hotel in the ancient Saudi Arabian town of AlUla. Checking into a suite here felt like stepping into a living chapter of the city’s past.
A Gateway To The Past
Dar Tantora The House Hotel is not a new building. It is a cluster of centuries-old mud-brick houses, meticulously restored by Egyptian architect Shahira Fahmy into 30 rooms, each possessing its own distinct personality. The design celebrates local heritage through thoughtful details: hand-woven rugs, intricately carved wooden doors and antique metal teapots and ceramic vases.
My suite featured a cocoon-like bedroom and a private sit-out perfect for stargazing. There is no trace of excessive opulence; instead, the focus remains firmly on texture and craft. The hotel is named after the Tantora, a traditional sundial, which still marks the passage of time. This commitment to authenticity is matched by a deep sense of personalisation.
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Guests are invited to choose a signature scent for their room or enjoy a vinyl collection curated to their specific musical tastes.
The Magic Of Stillness
While the architecture is stunning by day, the real magic of Dar Tantora is reserved for the hours after sunset. Each evening, the staff lights more than 1,800 candles and lanterns, bathing the property in a warm, atmospheric glow. As the flames dance, they cast long shadows across the ancient mud-brick walls, revealing textures and curves that are easily missed in the flat glare of day. To preserve this mood, electricity is restricted to bathrooms, power outlets, and air conditioning during the summer months.
A Taste Of The Oasis
Dining is a central highlight of the stay. The hotel features two distinct spaces: Joontos, which blends local ingredients with Middle Eastern and Spanish flavours and Maqha, a rooftop café, both developed by Michelin-starred chef Jaume Puigdengolas.
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Breakfast is a lavish affair, featuring traditional shakshuka and masoub – a Saudi specialty of mashed bananas, spiced flatbread and cream. For a modern twist, the French toast with date syrup and halwa is exceptional.
Dinner explores deeper regional roots with dishes like chicken mandi, where baby chicken is slow-cooked with desert basil and wild sage until incredibly tender. The accompanying rice absorbs the cooking juices and a subtle hint of smoke.
Puigdengolas also elevates the vegetable kabsa by rubbing the produce with native arak leaves, salt and lemon peel to enhance their natural sweetness. The desserts too pay homage to the land, from date and citrus soufflés to mahalabia, a milk pudding scented with cardamom and orange blossom.
Beyond The Walls
When you are ready to venture out, the hotel serves as a bridge to the local culture. You can spend an afternoon practicing Arabic calligraphy, learning the intricate art of henna, or baking traditional breads.
The location is remarkably walkable. A short stroll leads you through the labyrinth of mud-brick homes in the Old Town to a 10th-century fort with views over the entire valley. Just below lies the AlUla oasis, a sea of two million date palms and citrus trees. For those looking to explore further, visits to archaeological sites like Hegra are arranged in style, using vintage Mercedes and Rolls Royce.
A Modern Sanctuary
After a day in the desert, the Dalila Spa offers an intimate sanctuary. Its four candle-lit treatment rooms provide a space to recharge with therapies rooted in the region, such as massages using local moringa oil or body scrubs made from coffee and date seeds.
On the upper level, a stunning rooftop pool serves as a hidden retreat from the heat. It is a space that neatly bridges the gap between old and new; while the rest of the property feels like a journey through time, the pool deck provides the sleek, modern comforts needed for true relaxation. There is something truly special about taking a quiet swim while gazing out at the star sprangled Alula sky.
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Dar Tantora offers something rare in modern travel: a place to listen. In the deep silence of the mud-brick walls and the slow, dancing shadows of the candlelit courtyards, the city actually tells you its story.
Dar Tantora The House Hotel
Address: 375 Old Town, 43562, AlUla, Saudi Arabia. Phone: +966 53 400 3939
Room Rate: Starts From 5567 SAR Night/Person (₹1,35000 Approx.)
How To Get There: AlUla International Airport is 34km away and takes around 30 minutes to get to. Get in touch with the hotel to arrange pick-up in a classic car.
