Five watches from independent watchmakers that are our favourites
Geneva Watch Days (GWD) was born in August 2020, when the bigger watch fair Watches and Wonders got cancelled in April due the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic. Six founding member brands—Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F came together to keep the show going. The idea was simple: to keep the fair more inclusive by keeping options of decentralized venues and keeping the costs of participation low so that the smaller watch brands can eventually take part. The event has now grown to become a serious annual watch exhibition for the watchmaking community, comprising 52 brands and over 100 exceptional timepieces launched.
Since the focus on Geneva Watch Days (GWD) is on small and independent brands, we handpick five exquisite timepieces launched by independent watchmakers that made a big impact.
This new watch is a perfect blend of art and functionality. Created by Yvan and Dominique Arpa’s son, Jérémie Arpa, it debuts the new Wavy case design that was inspired by the powerful movement of ocean waves and is entirely produced in flawless sapphire crystal. The result is a fluid, organic design in that is reflected in the contours of the case, where each arc is carefully sculpted to create an impression of perpetual flux. A tribute to purity and simplicity, this new 40 mm timepiece features a three hands ‘Time Only’ movement in an open-worked architecture enabling transparency and lightness through its all-sapphire crystal case. A one-of-a-kind visual experience that allows you to see the wonderfully made, time-only movement.
The Chronodate Titanium stands out for its omnipresent industrial grey of titanium extending into the sunray-brushed grey of the “Magnetic Silver” dial and contrasted by deep black subdials with a hint of red. With understated, sporty and contrasting colours, the Chronodate Titanium is an immediate attention grabber. The harmonious blend between the titanium case, titanium bracelet or black rubber strap, rhodium-plated hands and the dial surface creates a technical monochrome impression. This grey continues into black, revealing the movement container and then the carbon composite push-pieces.
Angelus introduces a new shade of its self-winding chronograph with peripheral date. The two counters in black represent a 30-minute chronograph totaliser and small seconds.
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One of the most significant announcements at GWD 2024 was the launch of the thinnest mechanical watch in the world-measuring just 1,65mm. This breakthrough has shifted the spotlight from the traditional leaders in thinness—Bvlgari, Piaget, and Richard Mille—toward Konstantin Chaykin. While the ThinKing model is not yet in commercial production, this concept watch firmly establishes Chaykin at the top of haute horlogerie. Chaykin’s remarkable achievement came from the development of an ultra-thin mainspring barrel without covers, integrating the winding mechanism directly into the barrel arbor. This allowed the inclusion of a functional mainspring in an exceptionally thin space without compromising stability. The second breakthrough in the movement was the incorporation of a double balance wheel, a first for ultra-thin watches. By distributing functions across two balances—one paired with the pallet fork, the other with the hairspring—Chaykin was able to design a thinner movement. The PalanKing case not only protects the watch, but also automatically winds the movement and facilitates time-setting through the winding crown.
A Norwegian brand that pays homage to men and women in service, Micromilspec introduced the Milgraph at GWD 2024—its first timepiece featuring both GMT and chronograph movements. The Milgraph draws inspiration from 30 custom military projects that shaped its creation. Originally contracted for Special Operations Forces, this left-hand chronograph features a swapped crown position, enhancing mobility and comfort, and reducing wear on the skin when worn directly or on textiles when worn externally. Micromilspec also debuted its innovative QuadGrip bezel, designed with four deep indents for seamless operation, even while wearing gloves. The micro-blasted titanium case provides a durable, dark tactical finish. For precise timekeeping and easy coordination in the field, each chronograph sub-dial is clearly labeled for hours, minutes, and seconds. As a mechanical chronograph with GMT functionality and no electronic components, the Milgraph is untraceable, making it safe for operational use. The timepiece features an eye-catching orange-tipped GMT hand and is powered by the La Joux-Perret L121 movement, offering a 60-hour power reserve—enough to last through the weekend. Crafted from Grade 5 titanium for lightweight comfort and a tactical aesthetic, this limited-edition watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters and available with a leather or titanium bracelet. Only 50 pieces are produced annually.
Bausele, a distinctive brand from Sydney, reflects the vibrant spirit of the city in many of its models. At GWD 2024, Bausele unveiled their latest creation: the ‘Infinite Sunset’ collection, following the success of their ‘Endless Sunrise’ series. Maintaining the same design language as the Sunrise series, the new collection features dials in yellow, blue, orange, and white, now housed in a bold black case that captures the essence of dusk. Inspired by the vibrant evening skies, this series maintains the features of its predecessor, including the 39.5mm sand-blasted stainless steel case, now presented in an elegant black finish. The ‘Infinite Sunset’ watches are powered by the precise and dependable Sellita SW200 Swiss Made mechanical self-winding movement and offers water resistance up to 200 meters (20 ATM). This limited-edition collection of only 100 pieces showcases Bausele’s dedication to craftsmanship, with each watch featuring a screw-down crown filled with sand from a famous Australian beach, visible through the crown cap. The timepieces also come with a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, ensuring clear visibility.