Bold Indian Flavours Sans Drama: Chef Manish Mehrotra Returns To The Pass With Nisaba

Ushering in an era of easy dining, Nisaba brings Chef Manish Mehrotra’s vision to the fore, backed by Amit Khanna and Binny Bansal, where bold flavours take precedence over the theatrics of modern gastronomy. The cooking here is shaped by the chef’s conviction that Indian food, rich in its expression and rooted in culture, is inherently self-sufficient and needs no outside influence to find relevance.

In a space where no detail is left unattended, it comes as no surprise that even the restaurant’s name was deliberated at length. Explaining the Christening of Nisaba after the Sumerian deity of grain and writing, Mehrotra shares, “We have grain-oriented cuisines across the length and breadth of the country and wanted a new and refreshing name suitable for both Indian and global audiences. My partner Amit Khanna came up with the name, which reflects our ethos and complements the serene setting next to Sunder Nursery, fitting seamlessly into our vision.”

Nothing but food takes the centre stage at Nisaba, standing tall at an intersection almost diagonally opposite Indian Accent, his previous stint, overlooking a courtyard full of cafes. While most chefs of today make a noise about new techniques, Manish shuns it all, saying, “We aren’t focussing on techniques but the food itself. We do a bit of everything from baking to steaming and use Indian and global techniques. We do some pickling, but we aren’t going big on fermentation unlike many fermentation-forward menus today. Fermentation is just a part of what we serve and not the entirety.”

The Nisaba experience is anchored in the food, where chaat is unapologetically chatpata, and Paneer Butter Masala and Butter Chicken occupy a proud place on the menu—albeit in non-traditional forms. Chef Manish is known for evangelising Moradabadi dal. As we sit down to dine at one of Delhi’s most anticipated new restaurants, we are pleasantly surprised when he presents the creamy dal as a base for impeccably made, crisp mini samosas, finished with an ‘everything chutney’ and a liberal sprinkle of buknu masala. The dish sings, but it is the masterstroke of uniting two distinct favourites from Uttar Pradesh in a single dish that explains Manish’s standing in the culinary world.

The next surprise arrives in the form of Butter Chicken, served as an appetiser rather than a main. We’re recommended the Banana Chilli Shadow cocktail alongside, one that, we’re told, relies on no fancy bar equipment such as rotovaps or sous-vide machines, just honest mixing. Instead of the usual onion rings that accompany Delhi’s favourite, the dish comes with local-style Hot Chips, elevated with the chef’s own seasoning, while a deftly handled achari mirch plays its part without stealing the spotlight. In that moment, we know the maestro is back.

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He makes the quotidian and the ceremonial co-exist in his dishes. Take, for instance, Jammy Eggs with Saag, or the Baked Rasmalai— the chef’s personal favourite. Explaining it with glee, he says, “These are common things that bring a smile to faces. I love rasmalai, and my new rendition brings together rasmalai, rabri, firni, and mishti doi in a single dessert. We serve an element of surprise alongside familiarity.” Little wonder, then, that the dessert feels decadent and moreish, the spoon returning for more almost instinctively.

A dish that Amit Khanna and Chef Manish are very proud of is the Crab Ghotala. Amit Khanna beams, “The Crab Ghotala is really special as it brings my two homes together – Singapore and India. This is chef’s version of Singapore Chilli Crab – Nisaba Style!” Chef Manish takes us through its evolvement, “Both my partners are Singapore-based. When I tried Singapore Chilly Crab during my visit, I wondered if we should do our take on it. So, we took the iconic street food of Bombay, the Keema Ghotala, wherein keema is mixed with egg and cooked on tava, and created our dish inspired by the Singapore favourite.”

The menu at Nisaba is inclusive of the food preferences and dietary restrictions of today’s diner. Manish shares, “Lucky enough, Indian food is so diverse that we can cater to all dietary preferences. We have a gluten-free and vegan Tofu Kali Mirchi and Pit Roast Pineapple Curry for them. Besides, a few dishes can be made vegan on request. When presented with a request, we could also make à la minute dishes to ensure diners get enough choices.”

The same care with which diners are attended is extended to the staff under the Manish Mehrotra Culinary Arts banner. Elaborating about it, the chef shares, “We have seven freshers in the kitchen. We also have three people from Bihar, two who work as a halwai and one a bread maker, who have never worked in a restaurant of this scale.  They have worked in shops and karkhanas. Despite working for several years, they have never been in the organized sector. We gave them a platform to develop and sharpen their skills so when the time comes, they can work in any restaurant they like.”

Stepping out of his Indian Accent cloak, one would presume the maverick would perhaps deviate from his established vocabulary. With 30 years of work under his belt, Mehrotra says it is impossible to start with a clean slate, “I’ve put all my knowledge into the Nisaba menu. I have a certain style of cooking, and that will reflect in any of my menus. My signatures will definitely be there. People know I created those dishes. My style and philosophy remain the same. Here, we’re offering comforting, non-intimidating Indian food of today’s India, in a fine-dining setting with thoughtful service.”

And as one may wonder about the food philosophy of the greatest chefs of India, he shares rather proudly, “Indian food is remarkably diverse and doesn’t require external influences. I like to take traditional dishes and redo them in a manner which is not commonly portrayed. I try to make my food easily relatable and globally appealing. The diner today is discerning and knows what is being served. With globally recognized Indian chefs and establishments embellished with three Michelin stars, an evolved Indian fare is being globally recognized.”

NISABA’s interiors are shaped by natural light and clean architectural lines. It is open and bright by daylight, and overlooks the several cafes in the courtyard. It becomes more intimate as the evening dawns and the lighting draws attention to the finer interior details. In the words of Mehrotra, “the restaurant is luxurious but minimalistic, and there is nothing which will overpower the food, hospitality, and experience here. There’s green on the table during lunch, and there will be candles during dinner. We have green and beige as the main colours of the restaurant, which complement the monument and the building complex itself. Our signature wall is one of my favourites with the installation by Dhananjay Singh, which portrays a grain’s growth into a full-fledged tree.”

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The beverage programme at Nisaba features an expansive wine list of 80 labels, designed to pair seamlessly with the food. Mehrotra shares, “The pricing of our wine selection is deliberately kept accessible. Today’s diners love their wines and are well-versed in terroir, and our pricing allows more people to enjoy them.”

Summing up the Nisaba experience, Amit Khanna adds, “We offer honest food at honest prices, created and served with love.” Asked about his vision for Nisaba, he says, “We see the Nisaba experience travelling across India and beyond. We want diners to rediscover what nostalgia tastes like, and to find a space they can return to, bringing back happy memories of bonding over food.”

Fact Box:

Timings: 12 pm to 12 am

Where: First Floor, Humayun World Heritage Site Museum, Nizamuddin, National Zoological Park, Sundar Nagar, New Delhi.

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Taniya is an independent journalist and food writer with a keen eye on national and international F&B trends.