Let me set the stage. You’re in New Delhi, possibly seeking something a little more covert, a touch more indulgent than your average bar, or even your above average bar, for that matter. Enter Upstairs, the new after-hours haven from Indian Accent, a name so synonymous with refined dining that it practically wrote the book on modern Indian cuisine. The new first floor addition is both an extension of Indian Accent’s moody, luxurious DNA and a departure, a velvet-clad concoction of Bond worthy intrigue and Indian-infused cocktails that whisper stories into dimly lit corners.
Secrets In Every Sip
From the moment I walked into Upstairs, I felt as though I was being let in on a perfectly executed secret. There’s no neon sign screaming for attention, no frills to announce its presence, just a subtle staircase leading you to plush Sabyasachi upholstered furniture, candlelight that flickers like it knows all your secrets, and a bar crafted with the care of an architect laying the cornerstone of a cathedral. It feels like stepping into a frame from an old noir movie, complete with a soundtrack of soft jazz and Sinatra, think Lowry’s ‘Nighthawks’ scene, but with martinis that nod to neem, saffron, and kokum. What truly sets it apart, though, is the sophisticated simplicity of it all. It’s decadent without overload, mysterious but welcoming. This isn’t a raucous revelry kind of place, it’s a spot to recharge, to delve into whispered conversations over the clink of ice against glass. I couldn’t help but think of iconic bars that exist outside of time like the Bemelmans Bar in New York, with its whimsical murals and melodic charm, where characters of all weights, Hollywood stars, philosophers, mere mortals, share drinks without pretence.
Cocktails With A Twist
Speaking of drinks, they are every bit as polished and poetic as the space itself. Curated by Varun Sharma, head of bars at the hospitality chain, the cocktails here don’t just reinterpret classics, they take them by the collar and whisper Indian secrets into their frosty ears. Temptation hits you instantly with the bar’s roaming martini cart, the crown jewel of its bold, Indian-inspired cocktails. Six inventive martinis blend heritage with a twist, shaken to perfection. The ‘Upstairs Martini’ is the headline act made with vodka (or gin, no judgement) infused with Indian spices – it’s crisp, cheeky, and hauntingly memorable. The Indian riffs don’t stop there; the ‘Tamarind Old Fashioned’ is bold without being overbearing, like the person in the corner who doesn’t speak too often but has the sharpest wit when they do. There’s also the ‘Gondhoraj Gimlet’, a refreshing ode to the fragrant Bengali lime that’s sharp enough to wake you up and smooth enough to keep you dreaming. Take the ‘desi dirty martini,’ for instance, a rebellious little concoction where nimbu achaar brine replaces plain old olive juice. Honestly, it kind of feels like sipping on the soul of a perfect Kolkata fuchka. Then there’s the ‘kokuminfused French martini’, smooth and sweet like velvet whispers, and ideal for anyone whose palate swings sweet. Saunf? That’s in the ‘fenneltequila martini’, which is unexpectedly refreshing but so unabashedly Indian, it feels like it deserves a passport of its own. Even the bone-dry martini carries vermouth kissed by nihari spices, an aromatic homage to the Indian kitchen. But let me unabashedly confess, the desi dirty martini wins my heart and probably my Saturday nights. Is it quirky enough to be Upstairs’ signature cocktail? You bet. Still, if martinis aren’t your mood, there’s always whiskey sour or a taut pour from the bar’s carefully curated collection, not flashy, but elegant enough to make you want to linger a while longer.
Flavours In Harmony
And then comes the jazz. Vocalist Alyse Pascoe takes the room hostage with honeyed tones that sway through the warm air like molten gold. It’s straight out of a scene from Hollywood’s golden era yet somehow feels personal, like a slow rhythm you once knew, the kind Bond likely listened to as he swirled a martini and tossed his winning hand on a velvet-clad table. Pascoe’s voice is effortless, intimate, yet elevated, a sparkling touch that rounds out the evening. The food, on the other hand, doesn’t clamour for attention. Indian Accent’s head chef, Hitesh Lohat, steers with restraint, curating a menu that plays silent sidekick to the bar’s atmosphere. The inaugural menu, titled ‘Markets of Delhi’, is an ode to the city’s bustling culinary neighbourhoods. Think Old Delhi fried chicken with a golden crunch that feels like a bite of nostalgia, or a ‘kabab sando’ perched on shokupan so soft it could moonlight as a cloud. Humayunpur spices make their bold appearance in the braised pork belly with Timur and dale chili, comfort dishes turned into quiet rebels. What’s notable is the subtle interplay of tradition and reinvention. Upstairs doesn’t throw punches with its food or cocktails; it seduces with a clever dance of flavours. Smart, restrained, and utterly delightful, it leaves room for nostalgia while sneaking a new story to tell. Upstairs isn’t here to compete in Delhi’s bustling nightlife scene, it’s here to raise the stakes, to show that sometimes, less crowd and more character are precisely what the night calls for. Trust me, you’ll want to know someone who knows this place.
Also Read: The Luxury Of Sustainability In The World Of Bars
Fact Box
Upstairs opens at 6PM, pouring till 1AM (soon 4AM), joining Delhi’s elite late-night bars—a sultry enclave of jazz, martinis, and flickering candlelight, with membership exclusivity on the horizon.
