If your Instagram feed has been anything like mine this year, you’ve probably spotted treatments that sound more at home in a sushi bar or on a pirate ship than in a skincare clinic: hello, Salmon Sperm and Whale Vomit.
The beauty world can’t get enough of ocean leftovers – but what’s actually happening beneath the surface? In my book Skin Sense, I urge readers to cut through the hype and see what’s going on at the cellular level. So, why are we injecting fish DNA into our faces, and why is “whale vomit” in vogue?
The Salmon Sperm Revolution
PDRN And Polynucleotides
When we talk about “Salmon Sperm facials,” we’re actually talking about PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) and Polynucleotides (PN). These are DNA fragments extracted from salmon trout milt (sperm).
What Are The Skincare Benefits Of Salmon Sperm?
It turns out salmon DNA is 97% similar to human DNA. This high biocompatibility means our bodies don’t see it as a foreign invader, but as biologically identical messengers.
The History
PDRN has been used in clinical medicine since the 1990s to treat skin grafts, diabetic ulcers, and severe burns. Doctors noticed that these patients weren’t just healing; their skin was coming back thicker, smoother, healthier and more resilient.
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What It Does For Your Face And Eyes
PDRN Injections
This is the gold standard of PDRN that started in Korea with Rejuran injections. When injected directly into the dermis, PDRN acts like a bio-stimulator and binds to A2A adenosine receptors, which tells the fibroblasts in your skin to produce more collagen and elastin. One study showed a 1.36-fold increase in Type I collagen and a surprising 3.07-fold increase in Type III collagen (baby collagen).
Microneedling with PDRN is also effective. It creates tiny channels that allow the PDRN to seep deep into the skin, to improve collagen, elastin, hydration, fine lines and skin thickness. And, as the skin under our eyes is the thinnest, PDRN is a natural and effective alternative to botox and fillers to smooth lines and improve skin thinness and crepey texture by strengthening the matrix of the skin.
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The Scalp Secret
We’re now using polynucleotides for the scalp, too. By stimulating angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels), it brings more oxygen and nutrients to dormant hair follicles. It’s a brilliant, non-hormonal way to fight thinning and improve hair density, especially for those who can’t use topical minoxidil. Now, salmon sperm has scientifically proven its benefit for decades, but does whale vomit (ambergris) make the cut?
Why Whale Vomit Is Trending And What It’s Doing On Our Faces
The allure of Ambergris(whale vomit), also known as “floating gold” in the beauty world lies in its ability to act as a fixative making it important to luxury perfumery and high-end topical oils.
Chemically, it contains ambrein, a substance that creates a unique olfactory depth and ensures that fragrance molecules bond to the skin for significantly longer periods. Further, it has historically been used in traditional medicine for its purported anti-inflammatory properties, but scientifically it has not really proven enough efficacy for that purpose.
However, I take issue with ambergris. The whale vomit industry is mired in ethical and legal complexity. While it is technically a waste product – meaning no whales are harmed in its collection, its high market value (often called “floating gold”) has led to concerns about the poaching of sperm whales. Furthermore, because it is an animal by-product, its use is strictly regulated or even banned in certain countries, such as the United States, under the Endangered Species Act. Luckily, most modern brands have switched to lab-created synthetic versions like Ambroxan to ensure a cruelty-free and reliable supply chain.
Also Read: Why Melanin-Rich Skin Needs Its Own Science: Reframing Global Beauty Through An Indian Lens
The Final Verdict: Saying Yes Or No To Salmon Sperm And Whale Vomit
The takeaway? Salmon sperm might actually deserve a spot in your skincare routine. Whale vomit, on the other hand, is one trend you can safely skip.
Dr. Kiran Sethi is a double American Board-certified skin and longevity doctor and the founder of Isya Aesthetics.
