As the curtains draw on another fashion season, one defining theme emerges—fashion today is embracing unconventional modes of expression. Personal narratives are taking center stage, shaping avant-garde collections that transcend the runway. Designers are experimenting not just with their collections but also with the setting and Indian designers are at the forefront of this evolution, fusing artisanal craftsmanship with avant-garde innovation.
Among the most poignant showcases was Indian designer Gaurav Gupta’s recent haute couture presentation, ‘Across the Flame’, a deeply personal and transformative moment in contemporary fashion. As an example of transformation—both personal and artistic—his designs embody the overarching themes of resilience and reinvention, mirroring a broader movement in luxury fashion where heritage and futuristic innovation seamlessly converge.
The show opened with Navkirat Sodhi, Gupta’s life partner, draped in fluid white fabric that accentuated the third-degree burn scars covering over 55% of her body. As she walked the runway, she recited a powerful poem, unveiling the life-altering accident that led to her scars. The scene was both raw and poetic, an evocative expression of resilience, grief, and healing through fashion. ‘Across the Flame’ was more than couture; it was a cathartic rebirth. Marking several firsts, including the usage of brocade, denim, ghungroos, and his personal journey, the show made headlines as an evocative exploration of fire, both as a force of destruction and transformation.
In an exclusive conversation, Gupta delves into the emotions, craftsmanship, and artistic evolution behind this striking collection. Speaking about the ‘Twin Flame’ ensemble, his favourite piece, the designer explains how its ochre hue symbolises fire’s power to consume and transform. “It represents both Navkirat and me,” he reflects. “Crafting it meant finding balance between structured sculpture and liquid drape—technically challenging yet profoundly fulfilling.” Read on to know more about Gupta’s inspirations, the recent collection and his vision forward.
Edited Excerpts:
1. This collection is rooted in your personal tragedy and triumph over fire that is both destructive and transformative—give us a peek into how you processed grief and was there one defining moment that sparked the creative process for ‘Across the Flame’?
To be honest, it wasn’t just one moment; it was a series of realisations that kept building. After the fire, everything felt different, like we were existing between worlds. That sense of detachment, of the body and spirit moving separately, became the foundation of our creative process. We kept returning to the idea of astral projection—the soul transcending beyond the physical. From there, the sketches took shape, silhouettes that felt fluid, almost suspended in motion. While fire is terrifying, it also forces change. That duality shaped everything—the drapes feel like moving flames, structured yet fluid, embodying both chaos and control. The textures, whether molten-like metal casting or distressed denim, reflect survival and reinvention. It was deeply personal, processing something so intense into couture, but in that process, we healed. The final showcase wasn’t just about couture; it was about capturing that in-between state, where destruction and rebirth coexist.
2. As your personal journey of overcoming grief, what have been your lessons, and what emotions do you hope to evoke through this collection?
‘Across the Flame’ is a story of destruction and rebirth, of fire consuming us, but also purifying us. It carries emotions of resilience, transcendence, and love. We want people to feel a sense of transformation when they see or wear these couture pieces and to connect with the idea that even in the face of devastation, beauty and strength can emerge.
3. What do you hope clients and collectors feel when they wear a piece from ‘Across the Flame’?
We want them to feel empowered, as if they’re wearing their own story of transformation. Couture isn’t just clothing; it’s energy, intention, and emotion woven into fabric. When someone wears these pieces, we hope they feel their own strength and rebirth.
4. Presenting in Paris is showcasing on the world’s most prestigious couture platform. How does the city’s artistic legacy resonate with your vision, and what are your plans for Paris in the long term?
Paris is the heartbeat of couture, and its artistic legacy aligns deeply with our vision of sculptural, storytelling-driven fashion. The city’s mix of heritage and avant-garde thinking is inspiring. Long term, I see Paris as a second home for the brand, where we continue pushing boundaries in couture, art, and beyond.
5. In a world moving towards sustainable luxury, how does your couture reflect conscious craftsmanship?
Conscious craftsmanship, for me, is about intention—how we create, what we create, and why we create it. This collection continues our commitment to slow, meaningful couture. Every piece is handcrafted by artisans, honouring age-old techniques while pushing the boundaries of innovation. We’ve worked with handwoven Banarasi brocade infused with sacred chants, repurposed metal into sculptural elements, and even introduced denim, a material of rebellion, reimagined through intricate draping and embroidery. It’s about creating pieces that are timeless, not just in design, but in their deeper resonance.
6. Do you see yourself expanding into the jewellery segment?
We introduced jewellery last year, and this collection continues that evolution. These are statement pieces meant to feel like extensions of the body. On the runway, they complete the couture fantasy. Off the runway, they can transform a look—pair an Chakra ear cuff with a structured blazer, or a Bahu Mudra ring with a minimal dress. For me, jewellery holds energy beyond just adornment and is definitely an area I look forward to explore.
7. Share your recommendations in Paris for a fashion lover to indulge in retail therapy, inspiration, hidden treasures, and local favourites.
Paris is an eternal muse for fashion lovers like me. For retail therapy, I recommend Rick Owens for those looking for iconic pieces and Didier Ludot for some vintage couture. For hidden treasures, head to antique stores at Marché aux Puces, where you’ll find everything from old manuscripts to rare textiles. And to feel inspired there are few places capture, I love walking through Musée Rodin, as his sculptures are pure poetry.
