Hyundai India Couture Week 2026 unfolded as an ode to craftsmanship, restraint and contemporary Indian couture on July 28. The evening brought together two distinct creative voices. Dolly J opened with BRĀHM, a poetic meditation on transformation inspired by nature’s rarest bloom, while Jayanti Reddy followed with The Gilded Era, a collection that reimagined luminosity through thoughtful craftsmanship and modern silhouettes.
Both collections embraced luxury in their own language. One found inspiration in the stillness of the Himalayas; the other celebrated the interplay of light, heritage and contemporary couture. Together, they offered a compelling portrait of Indian couture today.
Where Flowers Find Form
Dolly J’s BRĀHM drew inspiration from the “Brahma Kamal”, the revered Himalayan flower that blooms in silence. The couturier translated its symbolism of purity, spiritual awakening and transformation into couture, creating garments that celebrate becoming rather than spectacle.
In a press statement, Designer Dolly Jhunjhunwala said, “With BRĀHM, I wanted to capture the beauty of transformation that unfolds quietly, without spectacle. The Brahma Kamal blooms in silence, yet carries immense spiritual significance, and that became the soul of this collection.”
Known for her mastery of intricate hand embroidery, particularly chikankari and zardozi, Dolly J remained true to her signature aesthetic of understated opulence. Delicate jali work, fine kashidakari embroidery and cascading tassels animated the collection’s fluid silhouettes.
Deep reds, antique golds, earthy rusts and rich wines found harmony with luminous ivories, shimmering silvers and celestial blues, echoing the changing moods of the Himalayan landscape.
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Cocktail ensembles and timeless bridal creations carried an airy lightness despite their intricate surface detailing, reinforcing the designer’s enduring ability to balance heritage craftsmanship with contemporary femininity.
Actor Vaani Kapoor closed the showcase as Dolly J’s showstopper, embodying the collection’s ethereal elegance and modern femininity.
Light Woven Into Couture
Jayanti Reddy’s The Gilded Era marked an evolution of the Hyderabad-based designer’s distinctive design language. Rooted in the textile traditions and cultural heritage of southern India, the collection presented 60 looks, including 50 womenswear and 10 menswear ensembles.
Drawing inspiration from Hyderabad’s palaces, architecture and rich cultural legacy, Jayanti Reddy translated heritage influences into contemporary couture through sculptural silhouettes and thoughtfully layered embroideries.
Sequins, metallic threads and intricate embellishments became instruments of light, revealing texture and movement with every step. Black made a striking entry into the designer’s signature palette, introducing depth and contrast to the collection’s romantic sensibility.
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In a press briefing, Designer Jayanti Reddy said, “My main goal was to play with the element of light. Not just for the garment to sparkle and look incredibly shiny, but through the amount of layering we have done. There are multiple layers of embroidery, but it still looks delicate. So, that was my aim.”
Actors Aditi Rao Hydari and Siddharth closed the show as Jayanti Reddy’s showstoppers, complementing The Gilded Era’s dialogue between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary refinement.
Structured corsets, elongated tunics, fluid kaftans and dramatic trail skirts were reimagined with remarkable lightness, allowing craftsmanship to remain the focal point. The collection embodied couture defined not by excess, but by intention.
BRĀHM and The Gilded Era demonstrated that Indian couture’s most compelling expressions often emerge through craftsmanship, where every detail is designed to leave a lasting impression.
