One of the oldest and most precious crafts found in horology, a decorative coating that gives metal watch components a smooth, glossy sheen, enamel is formed by mixing powdered glass and a binder, and is applied to the metal’s surface and then burned at high temperatures to provide a long-lasting, hard finish. It can be applied to a wide range of metal surfaces, including gold, silver, and steel, and it comes in a variety of colours and finishes.
The Process Of Enamelling
The procedure begins with a thoroughly prepared and cleaned metal basis, typically gold or copper. Finely powdered glass powder, which is occasionally blended with coloured oxides, is applied to the surface via painting, stencilling, or dusting. The dial is then burned in a kiln at temperatures above 800°C to fuse the enamel to the metal and produce a lustrous, long-lasting surface. Multiple layers can be applied, with each fire increasing depth, colour, and brilliance. Enamelling is considered one of the most difficult yet gratifying crafts in horology, providing timepieces an impression of craftsmanship, individuality, and longevity.
Challenges Of Enamelling
Enamelling in watches is an art of precision, but it comes with significant challenges that demand both patience and mastery. Tiny variations in temperature during firing can cause cracks, bubbles, or discolouration. Since enamel cannot be corrected or repainted once damaged, even the smallest flaw means starting over from the beginning, matching colours across different layers or reproducing identical dials for a series adds another level of complexity, as enamel hues often change subtly under intense heat. The fragility of the finished surface, prone to chipping if mishandled during later stages of assembly, also poses a risk.
Different Types Of Enamelling
The various styles of enamelling in watchmaking demonstrate the craft’s versatility and artistry across centuries. From the traditional grand feu technique, recognised for its pure, long-lasting brilliance, to decorative approaches such as cloisonné and champlevé, each approach provides a distinct style. Flinqué enamel creates depth by layering translucent enamel over guilloché patterns, whilst miniature painting enables artists to produce detailed, handcrafted artworks on tiny dials. Though each style necessitates unique abilities, they all share the precision, patience, and unpredictability that distinguish enamel watches as rare gems, admired for their beauty, originality, and enduring character.
