Only a few companies in the continuously evolving field of luxury watchmaking are able to successfully combine tradition and contemporary like Raymond Weil. The Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph, which has become a bestseller for all the right reasons, was given a new look at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, and the Swiss maison once again took over the show.
Raymond Weil’s most recent offerings further establish the Millésime line’s increasing popularity as a choice for connoisseurs seeking classic looks without sacrificing functionality. The brand’s history and redefined philosophy are embodied by the new rose gold PVD model with a deep black reverse panda dial, which gives the chronograph introduced last year a bolder, more elegant expression.
This watch, which is housed in a vintage-style glassbox sapphire crystal, evokes the elegance of mid-century watch design while adding modern flair. With a diameter of 39 mm (slightly smaller than last year’s 39.5 mm), the watch has almost flawless wrist presence. The Millésime excels in the finer features, but its 12.9mm thickness and 50m water resistance maintain the sturdy profile of its predecessor.
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A classic creation, the reverse panda dial enhances legibility and athletic appeal with its striking contrast between the black dial and white sub-dials. The pattern, which is both functional and fashionable, is framed by a white tachymeter scale and accentuated by baton-style hour markers coated in Super-LumiNova. With a 12-hour counter at six, a 30-minute counter at three, and tiny seconds at nine, the tri-compax configuration resembles vintage chronographs while staying resolutely modern.
Its vertically brushed case edges, wide fluted crown, and piston-style pushers all contribute to its retro appearance. The bezel chamfer and lugs are polished. These design elements make the chronograph more functional and aesthetically pleasing by enhancing ergonomics and usage.
The RW5030 automatic chronograph movement, a modified Sellita SW510 built on the renowned Valjoux 7753 architecture, ticks beneath the sophisticated appearance. The movement, which is visible through the transparent glass caseback, runs at 4 Hz and has a substantial 62-hour power reserve. Visible through the exhibition back, the customised rotor gives an already amazing machine an extra level of sophistication.
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The anthracite-dialed steel model is also attractive for people who like cooler tones. A modest yet lively contrast is created by the red highlights on the subdials and the tip of the central seconds hand. Its availability on a conventional five-link stainless steel bracelet or a camel leather strap offers a variety of design possibilities.
Raymond Weil has also well-considered value. In the luxury chronograph market, the price is still competitive despite the Swiss-made automatic movement and high-end appearance. A rose gold PVD bracelet with a black calfskin band costs EUR 3,895, while a steel bracelet costs between EUR 3,725 and EUR 3,850 with a camel strap.
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In the end, the new Millésime Tri-Compax Chronographs are more than just exquisite watches; they are evidence of Raymond Weil’s commitment to excellence, custom, and modern sophistication. These newest models are incredibly appealing, regardless of whether you’re an experienced collector or an enthusiast looking for the ideal daily chronograph.
The Millesime line sits still—in the best conceivable way—in a watch industry that is always searching for the next big thing. It is a tribute to classical design in the vernacular of contemporary watchmaking. And that’s exactly why it’s so classic.
