Every time you come across a Tarun Tahiliani creation, there’s a certain intrigue and admiration that you feel for the designer. He’s been in the fashion industry for close to three decades, but complacency is a word that doesn’t feature in his dictionary. Instead, you always find him brimming with new ideas to take Indian craftsmanship to the next level.
Tahiliani’s oeuvre is unmatched, having created a niche with his ‘India Modern’ aesthetic, much before it became a buzzword. No wonder, he was termed the ‘Karl Lagerfield of India’ by the late Isabella Blow.
His design vocabulary has always been about reimagining traditional silhouettes through a contemporary lens. This time again, at the Hyundai India Couture Week (ICW) 2024, the ace couturier showcased his signature aesthetic through his new couture line ‘Otherworldly’ that is “a journey into a realm where comfort and ethereal beauty coexist seamlessly.”
For Tahiliani, couture and comfort go hand in hand. Flowing lehengas with lightweight fabrics, structured bodices and intricately draped sarees feature abundantly, mirroring the style of the new-age woman that is fuss-free.
Some of the standout pieces from the collection include Priyanka Chopra’s yellow lehenga worn at the Radhika Merchant-Anant Ambani wedding gala, or Jahnvi Kapoor’s multicoloured lehenga with a generous dose of diamonds.
We speak to Tahiliani after his presentation at ICW 2024, to know more about the collection and the trends of the season:
Edited excerpts:
1. What’s the Collection ‘Otherworldly’ All About?
The collection ‘Otherworldly’ is about transcending the ordinary and venturing into a realm where craftsmanship and creativity intertwine to create ethereal beauty. It explores the idea of taking traditional Indian craftsmanship to new heights, blending innovative techniques with age-old traditions to craft garments that feel otherworldly yet rooted in our heritage. Each piece is designed to evoke a sense of wonder, with intricate details and luxurious fabrics that transport you to a different dimension of elegance.
2. You’ve been someone who has always brought Indian craftsmanship to the forefront through the ‘India Modern’ design aesthetic. What are some of the crafts that have been reimagined?
This collection showcases a plethora of crafts, including kashidakari, mukaish, and chikankari, reimagined in contemporary contexts. Couture for us isn’t just about embroidery or fit; it’s about the love and labour poured into every thread, crystal, and motif.
Our skilled artisans can create infinite variations with a needle and thread, and it’s all about how we interpret and juxtapose these techniques in modern silhouettes. We aim to dress the global Indian woman who values tradition but seeks to wear it in a way that feels natural and sophisticated, not overly traditional. The essence of Indian culture is celebrated through these crafts, ensuring dignified employment and keeping our rich heritage alive.
3. What’s Your Take on the Evolving Nature of Bridal Couture and Any Commandments for the New-Age Bride?
Comfort is the biggest fashion commandment for today’s bride. Bridal couture is evolving to meet the needs of modern brides who value comfort and individuality as much as tradition. They want to look stunning but also feel at ease, so they can fully enjoy their special day. The focus is on creating outfits that are light, comfortable, and easy to move in, without compromising on the grandeur and elegance that bridal wear demands.
4. Is There Any Ensemble That Particularly Stands Out?
I don’t have a single hero ensemble as there are many pieces that stand out. It’s like asking a parent to choose their favourite child. However, our Kasheeda coats and shadow coats are masterpieces of technique, and our Pichwai-inspired pieces always hold a special place. These garments embody the essence of our collection, combining intricate craftsmanship with modern design sensibilities.
5. What are Some Trends That We Can Look Forward to This Season?
Structured draping, weightless fine embroidery, and pastel colours are some of the trends to watch out for this season. We focus on finesse and delicate patterns that might not always be Instagram-friendly but look stunning in real life.
Our collection features coats and sarees with corsets, creating a unique blend of traditional and contemporary styles. The muted tones and intricate detailing reflect a sophisticated and understated elegance that defines this season’s trends.
