Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, the designer duo synonymous with Indian couture, have stepped into a new arena. Marking forty years of the label, the duo has launched its first fine jewellery line, choosing veteran actor Dimple Kapadia as the face and muse of the debut campaign. The move feels like a natural progression for a brand that has long treated embellishment and ornamentation as central to its identity.
The debut also brings their couture vocabulary into a new medium, translating the intricate techniques, textures and visual codes that have defined their work in fabric into jewellery. The result is a collection that feels unmistakably Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, only rendered in gold, gemstones and sculptural forms.
Craft Behind Collection
The collection unfolds across four distinct lines: Abad, Roshnai, Talismati and Junoon. Each carries its own mood and narrative, yet all are rooted in the maximalist, richly layered aesthetic the duo is known for. The pieces are crafted in 18-carat gold and set with diamonds, pearls, Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and multicoloured sapphires, lending the range a jewel-box quality.
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Design references are drawn from traditional Indian crafts the duo has championed over the years, including Patola embroidery and Chikankari work, reinterpreted here in metal and stone. Woven patterns and fine needlework take on three-dimensional form, most strikingly in a statement dragon cuff that wraps around the forearm, a piece that sums up the house’s love of bold, sculptural silhouettes.
Legacy Comes Alive
The collection retails exclusively at Mubarak Baug, the brand’s flagship store in South Mumbai. It is housed within a dedicated space called The Vault, a geometric, diamond-shaped structure designed to echo the artistry of gem cutting, offering a fittingly theatrical setting for pieces meant to be seen up close.
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With this debut, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla join a growing list of Indian couturiers moving into fine jewellery, a category increasingly seen as a natural extension for fashion houses with strong ateliers and a devoted clientele. For a brand built on grandeur and craft, the line feels less like a departure and more like the next chapter of a story that began with fabric and thread.
