Geneva has a rather unfair advantage when it comes to watches. This is, after all, a city where watchmaking is not simply an industry but part of the furniture, with centuries of craftsmanship sitting alongside some of the biggest events in the horological calendar. Watches and Wonders Geneva arrives in spring with the major maisons and their headline novelties, while the city also hosts the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and a steady stream of launches, collector gatherings and independent showcases. Then, come September, Geneva Watch Days takes over the city in its own wonderfully decentralised fashion. The 2026 edition, running from September 2 to 6, brings together 71 brands, with presentations spread across Geneva rather than being confined to one enormous exhibition hall. And that is rather the point. Geneva Watch Days feels less like a convention centre full of people marching from booth to booth and more like a city-wide treasure hunt for watch enthusiasts, with established names sharing the stage with independents and the occasional piece that makes you wonder whether the watchmaker had a perfectly sensible idea and then decided to ignore it. The 2026 edition has delivered plenty of those moments, from traditional craftsmanship and exotic materials to unconventional displays and serious mechanical wizardry. Here are some of the new watches from Geneva Watch Days 2026 that caught our attention.
Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian takes a more traditional route, pairing a 38mm rose gold case with a grained black dial accented by applied 4N rose gold indexes. Beneath the dial sits the GG-005P calibre, an impressive movement offering a 50-hour power reserve. The watch is completed by a brown calfskin leather strap with a matching rose gold buckle, creating a restrained combination of dark dial, warm metal and classical detailing.
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Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is an exercise in traditional decorative craftsmanship presented through a distinctly contemporary design. Its black gilt dial is made on a solid gold base and passes through multiple stages of finishing to create the contrast between deep black surfaces and exposed gold indications. The dial is further enhanced by pinstripes guilloché, producing shifting reflections and a pronounced sense of depth. The 38.6mm by 35.5mm rose gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and houses the manually wound DR002 manufacture movement, developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Operating at 4Hz, the movement delivers approximately 65 hours of power reserve. A 20mm calfskin leather strap completes the watch.
MB&F M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese
If conventional watchmaking is not your idea of fun, the MB&F M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese offers something considerably more eccentric. Housed in a 40mm 316L stainless steel case, the watch uses a top sapphire crystal with anti reflective coating on both faces and a bottom sapphire crystal treated on its inside face. At its heart is the Swiss made La Joux Perret G111 manufacture calibre, combined with MB&F’s bi directional jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed specifically for the watch. Automatic winding keeps the movement running, while its balance operates at 4Hz and provides a 55 hour power reserve. As expected from MB&F, the result is less traditional timepiece and more mechanical sculpture for the wrist.
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De Bethune DB25 Digitale
The De Bethune DB25 Digitale takes an entirely different approach to displaying time. Its 42mm polished Grade 5 titanium case houses the hand wound DB2144V3 movement, offering a substantial five day power reserve through a self regulating twin barrel system. At 12 o’clock, a jumping hour aperture provides the hour, while a rotating disc at 6 o’clock indicates the minutes. At the centre sits De Bethune’s spherical moon phase display, made from palladium and flame blued steel and accurate to within one lunar day every 1,112 years. The blued titanium dial features random guilloché, a silvered minute sector with a barleycorn motif and a chapter ring adorned with grey gold stars. Technical highlights include a titanium balance wheel with grey gold inserts, a silicon escape wheel, De Bethune balance spring and a triple pare chute shock absorbing system. The watch also features integrated openworked lugs, sapphire crystals with double anti reflective coating and a screw down open caseback.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter demonstrates what happens when ultra thin watchmaking meets an independent watchmaker’s unconventional imagination. Its 40.5mm case is just 9.70mm thick and comprises more than 50 components, with even the integrated crown guards requiring significant engineering to preserve the Octo Finissimo’s characteristic proportions while maintaining water resistance. The collaboration combines Bvlgari’s manufacturing expertise across Saignelégier and Le Sentier with Vianney Halter’s distinctive aesthetic. The movement incorporates dedicated modules for GMT, date and day/night functions, while the sophisticated opaline dial is divided into four elements, each requiring precise manufacturing and specialised tooling. The collaboration is offered in two limited editions: a brushed titanium version limited to 30 pieces with an integrated titanium bracelet, and a polished satin pink gold version limited to just 15 pieces, paired with a brown alligator leather strap. The latter offers the most luxurious interpretation of this unusual meeting of ultra thin engineering and avant garde design.
