In the realm of India’s cultural heritage, its textile traditions no doubt occupy a position of unmatched prestige. These ancient techniques handed down through the generations weave a tale of history, craftmanship and regional identity. While these crafts have stood the test of time, visionary designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Abu Jani – Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Anita Dongre and Manish Arora have given them a new lease of life by infusing them with contemporary flair.
At the other end of the spectrum, international designers like John Galliano, Dries Van Noten and Isabel Marant have often integrated Indian crafts such as embroidery and handwoven fabrics into their collections. Collaborations between Indian artisans and brands like Hermès and Christian Louboutin have further showcased Indian craftsmanship on a global stage over the years.
While Hermès launched limited edition saris in a bid to appeal to India’s luxury market in 2011 when they opened the first Indian store in Mumbai, Christian Louboutin has launched capsule and wedding specific collections for India since they arrived in India in 2016. The modern makeover has not only given these Indian crafts a platform but also ensured that their legacy endures.
Shifting perspectives of Indian textiles
Between fast fashion and fleeting trends, traditional crafts often don’t get their due. But over the last few years there’s been a newfound appreciation for the beauty of all that’s handmade. Celebrated designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla believe that for generations our traditional crafts and craftspeople were taken for granted. “The exceptional skill and mastery of our artisans has often been overlooked and undervalued. However, the last few years have seen the emergence of a following and awareness of the beauty, excellence and unparalleled workmanship that handcrafted pieces bring to our lives. We must value and revere the handcrafted and hold it in the highest esteem.”
Adding relevance to age-old crafts is a contemporary form, believes designer Payal Khandwala: “Indian crafts have been the cornerstone of our fashion landscape in a cultural context for generations, but now we see them in a slightly different light, in more updated, more relevant ways. The line between what is considered traditional and what is now considered modern is definitely blurring.”
Craftsmanship meets couture
As more and more designers collaborate with artisans and put the focus back on handmade pieces, there is a mindset shift towards sustainability and authenticity. Of course, social media has further amplified this trend by giving both designers and artisans a massive platform to showcase their work. In recent times, Jani-Khosla have put the attention back on age-old crafts like Chikan, Ajrak, mirrorwork and Bandhani. “We have reinvented these crafts as high art and couture. It is about vision and training the creative imagination to elevate technique and form into its highest possible expression,” say the duo.
Khandwala on the other feels that brocades have had a major transformation into modern luxury wear. “We have a very large international market for our brocades. They appreciate how rare and luxurious these pieces are. Domestically, because we grew up with these crafts, we take them for granted, but internationally there is a real awareness being created for the Indian artisan.”
Case in point: global fashion houses like Dior, Gucci, and Chanel have long collaborated with Indian artisans and embroidery houses, a partnership now spotlighted by social media. Earlier this year, Jimmy Choo unveiled its Mumbai Bon Bon Bag, exclusively available for the brand’s Jio World Plaza store in Mumbai. Inspired by Maximum City, the bag features vibrant floral embroidery reminiscent of the city’s sunsets.
And of course, Dior’s Fall 2023 show held at the Gateway of India is still fresh in our memory. Showcasing India’s rich textile traditions like ornate weaves and intricate embroideries, the iconic show beautifully amalgamated India’s craftsmanship with French elegance. The last few years have seen several such collaborations like Sabyasachi x Christian Louboutin, Sabyasachi x H&M and also Gucci’s recent line of kaftans that were loosely inspired by Indian kurtas.
Social media has no doubt created a booming demand for the contemporary avatars of these age-old crafts. Speaking about how Indian crafts have undergone a makeover Riaan George, digital creator says: “The most quintessential item in Indian menswear is the bandi jacket. These now feature so many interpretations of Indian designs whether its embroidery or other embellishments. The Indo Western suit i.e. western jackets with Indian embellishments are also trending. Last but not the least, there’s been a resurgence of kurtas that make for a chic look.” That being said, George believes, he’s still not seeing as many handmade items as he would like to see. “The democratisation of fashion has made many cheaper, machine-made options available at lower price points.”
A fine balance
In order to maintain authenticity of the crafts, designers need to maintain the delicate balance between tradition and innovation. Keeping in mind the cultural significance and traditional techniques is also crucial. Shivani Boruah and Uday Shanker Acharya, founders of Our Own Pace, an artisanal lifestyle brand speak about how they stay true to the crafts that they work with. “We are able to do this by working directly with weavers and craftsmen across India rather than shopping for fabrics in markets. We found that most of the craftsmen we work with have a lot of talent and work on some experimental pieces in addition to the commercial orders that they take.”
Their pieces feature patterns that are woven into the fabric by hand as opposed to screen or digital printing. “The contemporary spin we add is how the print is placed, the way the garment is constructed and also how it fits. In the future, we want to work on our own designs or weaves that will be made to show off the technique and not the other way around.”
The rising global stock of Indian crafts
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Whether its fashion or home decor, Indian crafts with their heritage and fine workmanship, are making an impact, worldwide. Brands like Good Earth, India Circus, Fabindia, and Nappa Dori are proudly showcasing India’s artistry on the global stage.
The demand for handmade treasures is no doubt soaring. The India Craft House was founded by Sona Puri with the idea of preserving and promoting the legacy of crafts. Today, the company ships orders worldwide. “There is definitely a growing market for Indian craft, especially in its contemporary avatar. With the incredible craft legacy that India has, with virtually every corner of this country offering the exquisitely crafted and woven products, the possibilities are endless in terms of what more can be done. While there is already a large export market for Indian products, India still has a small share comparatively in the world handicraft pie. The potential to grow is immense,” opines Puri.
And as their stock continues to rise, perhaps it’s finally time for the arts and artisans to claim their rightful place on the global stage.
