The Return Of Ritu Beri

Much before Sabyasachi and Gaurav Gupta captured the imagination of the international fashion fraternity, it was veteran Indian designer Ritu Beri, with her inimitable design and aesthetic, who hit the spotlight on India. A graduate of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in New Delhi, Beri launched her eponymous label in 1990 and, nine years later, made history as the first Indian designer to showcase her collection at Paris Haute Couture Week.

The quintessential Ritu Beri aesthetic is rooted in tradition but married with modern styles and silhouettes. Even international celebrities fawn over her almost boho looks, with bold colours and textures. Nicole Kidman, Katie Holmes, Mischa Barton, King Charles and others gave Label Ritu Beri looks global exposure.

 

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Through the noughties, she became a pioneering force for Indian couture. In 2000, she became the first Asian to take on a leadership role at a French fashion house, she was the creative head for Jean-Louis Scherrer’s prêt-à-porter line. In 2010, the French government awarded her the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres for her contributions to the fashion world.

Even though Beri has stayed away from the limelight in the last decade and a half, she has been diligently pursuing the cause of Indian heritage and crafts. In 2015, she started a non-profit, The Luxury League, to reimagine luxury in an Indian context. She was appointed an advisor to the Khadi and Village Industries Commission in 2016.

Beri is now making a splash with her latest venture, Escape Goa. The multi-functional, multi-brand boutique is situated in a 200-year-old Portuguese villa that has been painstakingly renovated. Her signature bold red-and-white palette is distinctive. The gilded ‘Punjabi Rock and Roll’ aesthetic combines kitschy pop art with ornate baroque flourishes. The thought behind the space, according to her, is a sanctuary where art, fashion, music, and culture collide—a destination designed to inspire and connect with like-minded creatives.

She chose Goa because to her, the sunny state represents a state of mind. “It represents freedom, creativity, and an Escape from the ordinary. I wanted to create a space that embodies these ideals—a place where art, music, fashion, and culture come together effortlessly. The beauty of Goa, its bohemian spirit, and its openness to artistic expression made it the perfect choice,” she adds.

Beri’s favourite space within Escape Goa is the reception space because of its openness and connection to nature. “Conceptualising a space that isn’t just a venue but an experience—one that nurtures creativity and fosters new stars. Escape is constantly evolving, and that’s what makes it so special!” she adds. Escape Goa isa lifestyle destination that offers Beri’s resort wear collection, curatedaccessories, home décor, fragrances, and gifting options. The space also features a gardencafé overlooking lush paddy fields, providing the perfect setting for visitors to relax aftershopping. Escape Goa is set to become a cultural hub, with plans to host live performances andevents at its intimate amphitheater.

We spoke to Beri about her journey from India to France and back to India and more.

Edited excerpts:

1. Apart from Escape Goa, what are the other projects that are keeping you busy?

Escape Goa is my passion project, but beyond that, I am working on a series of exclusive events, collaborations, and creative ventures. This includes curating unique pop-ups, bar nights, and cultural gatherings under the Escape banner. Additionally, I continue to engage with various luxury and craftsmanship-driven initiatives, keeping my love for design, heritage, and innovation alive.

2. You’ve had such rich and myriad experiences in the world of couture.What were some of the most memorable moments that impacted your creativity?

There have been so many defining moments, but some that stand out include showcasing in Paris as the first Indian designer to do so, which was a turning point for me and Indian couture. I’ve also had the opportunity to dress and style global icons, from Bill Clinton to Nicole Kidman, and see how my designs resonate across cultures. My collaborations with countries and The Luxury League, where luxury is not just about glamour but also about impact, is something that drives me and the process of working with Indian artisans, understanding their craft, and bringing their skills to a global stage.

3. Could you share some of your biggest inspirations?

I find inspiration in everything around me—India’s rich textile heritage, global travel, art, and even music. The vibrant chaos of Indian streets, the intricate details in Mughal architecture, and the effortless elegance of Parisian fashion all influence my work. More than anything, I am inspired by passionate people—those who create with heart and soul.

4. How would you define the Ritu Beri aesthetics and design philosophy?

My design philosophy has always been about marrying tradition with modernity. It’s about opulence without excess, craftsmanship with a contemporary touch. I love playing with textures, intricate embroidery, and bold yet timeless silhouettes. There’s a strong influence of India’s cultural roots, but always with a global perspective.

5. What are your observations on Indian couture getting its due, from the time you first showcased in Paris to now, with Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta, and Vaishali S becoming mainstays on Paris runways?

It’s been incredible to see how Indian couture has evolved. When I first showcased in Paris, there was curiosity but also scepticism about Indian fashion on a global platform. Now, designers like Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta, etc, have cemented their place in the Parisian fashion scene, proving that Indian craftsmanship and storytelling are world-class. There is now an appreciation for our textiles, our drapes, and our unique aesthetic.

6. What is the importance of Indian couture’s global exposure to Indian textile and cultural heritage?

Indian couture is deeply rooted in centuries-old craftsmanship, and global exposure brings recognition and preservation to these traditions. It creates new opportunities for artisans and ensures that our textiles—whether it’s Banarasi, Chikankari, or Kanjeevaram—continue to thrive. It also changes the narrative, showing the world that Indian fashion isn’t just about bridal wear but is versatile, innovative, and luxurious.

7. When are we seeing Ritu Beri designs hit the limelight again?

The creative process is always ongoing, and while I am deeply immersed in Escape and other projects, I believe in timing things when they feel right. There’s always something brewing, and when the moment is perfect, my designs will be showcased in a way that feels fresh and exciting.