Gauri Devidayal’s Guide to London’s Hottest Dining Spots

My equivalent of an open–bus tour of London is savoring my way across the city’s culinary landscape. My carefully curated list was compiled through a combination of crowd sourcing from my F&B industry friends, recommendation from credible publications, and the trusted palates of my friends whom I trust. Returning after a six–year hiatus to London resulted in a list that would require a much longer stay and an appetite of epic proportions. I wasn’t really sure what to expect since my last trip had been during the prelude to Brexit and the mood in the city wasn’t the best. However, it’s very clear that things have turned around 180 degrees, in terms of the quality of service and the diversity of food on offer. Having spent the last summer in New York, it’s safe to say that London also offers better value, for the most part.  

For those looking to embark on a culinary journey around London, like I did, it’s important to know that most restaurants will require you to make reservations online with credit card details. You can usually manage to get a table a day or two before, if you’re flexible with the mealtime, and you’re a small pack of about 2-3 people at most. However, some of the most sought–after spots generally need bookings to be made at least 7-10 days prior, so plan your culinary escapade accordingly. If you are planning to go with a larger group, be prepared to face more challenges at the more popular food restaurants.

Now if your agenda is to chomp around London for a few days, depending on which neighbourhood you’re in, or how far you’re willing to travel for food, I’ve handpicked some of the best dining experiences I’ve had throughout the city, this summer.

1. The River Cafe

An oldie but a goldie, you will still find the septuagenarian chef-owner Ruth Rogers at the pass of this 37-year-old Italian restaurant. Housed in a warehouse building on the Thames River in West London, the seating spills out onto a beautiful courtyard, perfect for a summer evening.

The iconic colour palette of pink, blue and yellow is guaranteed to perk you up on the gloomiest day, most notably the magenta wood fired oven in the open kitchen. What I loved the most was the wait staff dressed in their own clothes but always in bright block colours. You can blindly run your finger through the daily changing seasonal menu and pick anything, and you’ll love it. My highlights included the Scottish scallops, monkfish and the almond tart with strawberries that I had been eyeing all evening as it stood displayed on the dessert counter

Secret tip: you can ask for half portions of almost anything and that way you get to try more and spare some time to end your meal with a walk along the river.

Location: River Café: Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, Hammersmith & Fulham, London, W6 9HA, United Kingdom

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2. Lurra

A Basque-inspired restaurant, near Marble Arch, where the charcoal and wood fired grill is the star. If you walk past their dry ageing temperature-controlled cabinets, you’ll be drooling in anticipation for sure. Their specialty includes British ex-dairy cows that are no longer dairy producing and relatively lean. These cows are grass-fed for several years, allowing them to fatten up naturally, resulting in exceptional meat through what can best be described as slow raising. Highlights of the meal, besides the beef of course, included pan con tomate, octopus and prawn croquetas and the courgette flower stuffed with manchego, a Spanish cheese varietal. It would be a crime to leave without indulging in their basque cheesecake.

Secret tip: In case you don’t manage to get a reservation, they have a sister restaurant across the street called Donostia, which has a lot of overlap with Lurra’s menu.

Location: 9 Seymour Place, London, United Kingdom W1H 5BA

3. Trullo

A pasta paradise, this little Italian eatery tucked away in Highbury & Islington, may not be on your usual path to anything, but is worth taking the detour. Step inside and you can even catch a glimpse of the chefs through the window, meticulously rolling out pasta by hand. Pasta that is as fresh as it gets, with simple sauces, and paired with top-tier ingredients is what makes every dish here a memorable meal. The perfect mastery of cooking, combined with the warm trattoria vibe of the space, and you have the quintessential go-to neighbourhood joint for those moments when you crave a quick escape to Italy for a few hours.

Secret tip: If you want more of the same, but have a never repeat rule on holidays, check out their sister restaurant Padella in Borough Market (walk-ins only) or Shoreditch (takes some reservations).

Location: 300-302 St Paul’s Road, Canonbury, London, N1 2LH, United Kingdom

4. Mountain

In the heart of Soho, this Spanish restaurant with an industrial-chic vibe, has made its way to every top restaurant list, and even scored a Michelin star within its first year. Among the many highlight moments of my meal here was my introduction to sobrassada, a sausage which is the Spanish equivalent of chorizo, and the second dish was Scottish girolle mushrooms, served with a confit egg yolk—pure umami heaven.

As I devoured these mouthwatering dishes here, I had the pleasure of watching the drama of an open kitchen in action. While the menu will leave you spoilt for choice, I highly recommend the roti like grilled bread, cured dairy beef, artichoke and fennel fritto and dover sole.

Secret tip: Don’t miss a visit to the funky washrooms.

Location: 16-18 Beak Street, Soho, London, W1F 9RD, United Kingdom

5. Smoking Goat

Brace yourself for a chilli attack but even if you have the spice threshold of a baby, you won’t be able to resist the food coming out of this modern Thai kitchen. The fried egg rice noodles with lardo might not immediately catch your eye at first, but there’s a reason it’s one of their signature dishes. Just like their fried chicken skin—the Thai version of classic beer grub. It was also my first time trying beef heart which isn’t as ‘offal’ as it sounds!

Secret trip: Make the most of being in the east end and head up for dessert to their sister restaurant Brat for their famous Basque cheesecake

Overall, I think, London chefs are showing a more confident style of cooking reflected in shorter seasonal menus, simpler dishes with just three to four elements, allowing the ingredients to truly shine. The plating is refreshingly non-fussy, with open kitchens definitely becoming the norm, and wine chillers moving to the window sills at any street facing restaurant. It’s heartening to see British ingredients and farmers having their day in the sun, regardless of the cuisine.

Among the many memorable dining experiences were meals at St. John’s, Alley Cat Pizza, Honest Burgers, Jikoni, and Taka—all conveniently close to where we stayed.

I even braved the Borough Market on a weekend, just to revisit my all-time favourites—Monmouth Coffee House and Neal’s Yard Dairy. And I must admit, for the first time, I was blown away by the bakery and coffee scene that has taken over London neighbourhoods, truly placing London as a contender for one of the best cities to eat.

Gauri Devidayal is a Mumbai-based restaurateur whose brands include The Table and Mag St. She is the host of podcasts like Speak Greasy and This Round Is On Me, and co-author of Diamonds for Breakfast.