From Michelin-starred to hidden kitchens, Nikhil Merchant delves into Lisbon’s finest restaurants to spotlight their signature dishes
It was my first time in Portugal’s historic capital, Lisbon, a city that had long been on my bucket list. I consider Goa and Lisbon as twin cities in two different continents; woven into my past through the stories of my mother, who was born during Goa’s Portuguese era. I meticulously planned every detail of the trip; choosing to stay in the heart of the city, in the Baixa neighborhood. This central location was ideal, bordered by Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district, with its narrow streets lined with fado houses, offering a glimpse into traditional Lisbon. On the other side were Chiado and Bairro Alto, areas where old boutiques meet swanky high-street fashion, all while maintaining a charming bohemian vibe. Visiting Lisbon, indeed, felt like coming home.
Lisbon’s dining culture, much like its citizens, is infused with cultural heritage and warm hospitality. The city boasts a mix of casual tascas, upscale restaurants, and trendy eateries—all emphasising fresh, local ingredients while maintaining a relaxed, leisurely pace. Social dining is common, with shared dishes and convivial atmospheres, beautifully captured in creations by some of Lisbon’s finest chefs. Not far behind, the modern dining hot spots also exude an elegance that comes to life through the use of freshly sourced ingredients and the artistry of chefs who seamlessly blend traditional methods with globally inspired techniques. This sophistication is showcased in every detail, whether it’s a meticulously crafted degustation, a curated tasting menu, or an enticing array of daily specials, each dish embodying luxury in its most refined form.
The neighbourhood of Chiado in Lisbon has an old-world romantic charm and Belcanto by Chef José Avillez pays homage to it by bringing a contemporary culinary twist. An elegant space in Lisbon’s historic centre which matches the beauty of the historic São Carlos Square — the restaurant’s journey began in 1958. Refurbished in 2012, it has earned two Michelin stars and is ranked 31st on “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List.
Chef Avillez crafts Portuguese cuisine in a sophisticated, comfortable setting, blending historical charm with futuristic touches. For him, haute cuisine is a true form of expression. His dishes reflect inspirations and emotions from an era gone by. The Belcanto Menu, which offers both — a Tasting menu and À la carte, are influenced by the country’s coastal contours and interior plains enriched by cultural exchanges.
One delicious dish is the Suckling Pig with orange peel puree and lettuce. Synonymous with celebratory events, this interpretation exemplifies balance in the form of flavours and textures. Think crispy, tender pork, a bright orange peel puree, and the fresh crunch of the lettuce. The contrast of temperatures and the blend of traditional and modern techniques highlight chef Avillez’s ability to reinvent classic Portuguese flavours. Promising heritage and culture, Belcanto pushes the boundaries of contemporary cuisine.
Address: Rua Serpa Pinto, 10 A, 1200-445 Lisbon
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Located at Rua da Horta Seca, number 5, you climb down halfway a flight of stairs to a door on the side, entering a modern, cosmopolitan space. The restaurant’s ambience is warm and inviting, offering a perfect setting for Chef Mattia Stanchieri’s dynamic creations.
After honing his skills at renowned Michelin-starred restaurants like Geranium in Denmark, Da Vittorio in Italy, and Belcanto in Portugal, Chef Stanchieri launched his first solo venture, Vibe. He brings a wealth of experience to the table, introducing a new culinary theme every four months. His debut menu showcases interpretations of Cajun and Creole cuisine, inspired by his travels to New Orleans and the Bahamas and people who shaped his unique cooking style.
The chef’s pick at Vibe is the Oyster Rockefeller reimagined with a local twist. The original dish, created by Jules Alciatore in New Orleans, was named after the wealthy John D. Rockefeller. Chef Alciatore substituted oysters for snails on facing a shortage of escargots, combining them with watercress, Parmesan cheese and Pernod, to create a rich oyster gratin. At Vibe, Chef Stanchieri reinvents, using locally sourced ingredients. He replaces Parmesan with São Jorge cheese, sourced from local Portuguese farmers practicing regenerative agriculture and adds a fresh, peppery note with locally grown watercress. Expertly curated wines and cocktails from Quattro Teste, their Basque-Italian cocktail bar, complement the menu, while guests can also enjoy a drink in the upstairs bar before or after their meal.
Address: Rua Horta Seca 5B, 1200-200, Lisbon, Portugal
Principe Real is a lively neighbourhood and is home to many interesting restaurant concepts. An immersive dining experience holds centerstage — Yakuza marries the delicate art of Japanese cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean flair. Part of the Olivier Group, brainchild of Chef Olivier da Costa, capitalises on Portugal’s seafood abundance and brings a unique twist to traditional Japanese dishes.
Chef Olivier da Costa has a distinctive style of cooking where ingredients are treated with utmost respect and high-quality local produce is paired unconventionally. Expect the freshest fish from Portuguese shores, Iranian caviar, and the world renowned Spanish Balfégo Tuna on the menu. You’ll find one-of-a-kind Sushi creations, Japanese grills and Chef Alexandro Hatano, the executive chef, churning out more than 80 dishes, all served with a premium sake menu.
A must-try at Yakuza is the Tuna Toro Gunkan with Truffle featuring the finest tuna belly, and foie gras, delicately sliced and served atop a bed of perfectly seasoned sushi rice, topped with crispy leeks. The addition of truffle adds a luxurious bouquet of flavours.
With six locations, including the flagship and creation lab in Lisbon, there are also venues in Porto, Cascais, and a summer pop-up in Algarve. Internationally, Yakuza has a presence in Paris, near Galeries Lafayette, offering one of the top five Japanese culinary experiences, and in Tenerife, the largest of Spain’s Canary Islands.
Address: R. Júlio César Machado 7, Hotel Avani 1250-135, Lisboa
Good things come in small packages. Enter a brightly lit gray room and your attention is immediately drawn to the essentials: a 10-seater wooden table across a small kitchen counter. At Âmago, the communal vibe is palpable, urging conversations, yet with a dedicated focus on the culinary experience.
Marta Caldeirão and André Coelho, a young couple, founded this intimate restaurant during the pandemic. Located on Rua da Alegria in Lisbon the restaurant’s name, Âmago , means heart, soul, essence, and focus. Marta and André serve up modern European cuisine with artistic fervour. Playing with complexities of sweet, salty and smoky notes, this dinner-only extravaganza offers ten courses with a fun little bonus course at the end. Working seamlessly and in sync within limited space and resources, the chefs share how they persevered during the pandemic by serving dinner to only two people per meal, per day.
With well-curated wine pairings from small producers, the highly technical cuisine changes almost daily based on market picks and has garnered a spot on the Michelin Guide 2024. While it’s tough to pick a favourite from dishes such as their beautifully plated yellowtail with carrot, orange and ginger sauce and the partridge with asparagus and celeriac — Marta holds a special place for their pre-dessert. This dish, a reflection of their culinary ethos, features three simple flavours: Smoked Vanilla Cream with Imperial Caviar, a floral raspberry and hibiscus water, finished with a touch of earthy Portuguese olive oil.
Address: Rua da Alegria 41C, Lisbon, 1250-182, Portugal
2Monkeys, located within the luxurious Torel Palace Lisbon, helmed by two chefs Vítor Matos and Guilherme Spalk has bagged one Michelin star within 10 months of opening. The restaurant offers a new paradigm in haute cuisine with an intimate dining experience in the kitchen itself. Situated on Colina Sant’Ana, the most centrally located of Lisbon’s seven hills, the hotel provides sweeping views of the city, as does the rich history of the structures, originally built as private mansions in the early 1900s. The restaurant features light hues, dimmed lighting, and natural materials, with a U-shaped counter in the open kitchen as the centerpiece.
Consultant Chef Vitor Matos and Resident Chef Guilherme Spalk who lead the kitchen at 2Monkeys, maintain a cuisine-agnostic approach, and focus on the quality and essence of the ingredients, with a non-invasive treatment changing seasonally.
Dining here is all about suspense and surprise as diners don’t know the menu until they sit down. While the details of the menu are kept under wraps, Chef Vitor does share one constant: his favorite ingredient, foie gras. This delicacy, featured in every menu, is presented in a creamy, unctuous parfait, with seasonal flavours that evolve throughout the year a. Chef Guilherme reveals his culinary love for the fragrant kaffir lime. He suggests the Thai curry dish that comes with monkfish and purple shrimp, where kaffir lime is the star, an incredible herb, inspired by one of his trips to Asia.
Their cooking, rooted in simplified Escoffier techniques, is executed entirely in loco, creating a suspenseful dimension where fine dining is both adventurous and fun. While they accommodate allergies, the experience is not suited for vegetarians, making it a ‘must-do’ for the adventurous gourmet.
Address: Rua Câmara Pestana 23, 1150-082 Lisboa
In the heart of Lisbon, O Pastus is a haven for modern Portuguese cooking, a vision bought to life by the late Chef Hugo Dias de Castro in 2020. A thoughtfully designed space, set to evoke a connection with Portuguese flavours with a contemporary twist, it begets childhood inspirations with the profound influence of his grandmother, São.
An open kitchen, always a welcome change for diners who like to see their food being prepped, cooked, plated and eventually served up — it spells transparency, as well as echoes Hugo’s belief in authenticity and purity of his craft.
Following Hugo’s passing in December 2023, his wife, Annakaren Fuentes, has taken over the kitchen. Her Mexican and Portuguese background influences her style, honouring her late husband’s legacy by continuing his passionate vision. Her approach senses heritage and offers nostalgia and innovation together on the plates. A special focus of O Pastus is its exceptional seafood, sourced daily from the historic Paço de Arcos bay, by one of the fewer licensed fishermen allowed to fish at this bay. We recommend trying the Special Oyster from Sado with aguachile and topinambour or the Smoked Eel Korean BBQ style with pointed cabbage and apple. These dishes continually showcase the best catch of the day. The Tasting menu evolves with the day’s harvest, reflecting the ever-changing bounty of the sea.
Address: Marquis of Pombal Avenue No. 5, 2770-066, Palace of Arcos
100 Maneiras is inseparable from its founder, Ljubomir Stanisic, a Portuguese-Yugoslavian chef. Born in Sarajevo in 1978, Ljubomir’s journey through the culinary world has been marked by creativity, innovation, and a profound disregard for conventional boundaries. This spirit of limitless creativity defines the essence of 100 Maneiras, a brand that rejects preconceived norms, and relays a blend of seriousness and playfulness.
Ljubomir opened his first restaurant at the age of 26 and quickly gained recognition as one of the most creative chefs in Portugal by 2007. In 2009, he launched 100 Maneiras in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto, introducing the city’s first Tasting Menu at an accessible price. The restaurant’s acclaim soared further when it was featured in Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” Lisbon episode.
In 2019, 100 Maneiras relocated to Rua do Teixeira No. 39, earning one Michelin star and a spot on the 50 Best Discovery list. Seamlessly integrating luxury with rustic elements, every detail, from custom tableware to the eclectic music selection, reflects Ljubomir’s vision. The restaurant features distinct dining areas, including The Glass Room, The Dining Table, and The Back Room, each offering a different vibe.
They have three Tasting Menus, including a vegetarian option paired with wines by Ljubomir and partner Nuno Faria. A memorable dish is The Last Supper. This course is special as it was inspired by the only recipe chef Ljubomir remembers seeing his father cook. It contains Kupus and Somun Bread served with a Cow Head (vegetarian alternative offers Smoked Celery, Radish, Kupus, Corn) and Seaweed tortilla. It is best enjoyed with hands, much like a taco.
Insiders tip: Guests can supplement their menu with seasonal truffle and caviar.
Address: Rua do Teixeira, 39, Bairro Alto 1200-459 Lisboa, Portugal
LISBON LOWDOWN
Best Time to Visit: Lisbon is best in spring (March to May) or fall (September to October) when the weather is mild, and the city is less crowded. Summer (June to August) is popular but can be hot and busy, while winter (November to February) offers cooler temperatures and fewer tourists.
Plan your Dining: Reservations at most fine dines are encouraged directly through their website. Apps such as The Fork are great for discovery and reservations. Plan your reservations at least a week in advance.
Pricing at Restaurants: Tasting Menus average around €75 to €250/PP, Wine Pairings around €55 to €100/PP and A-La-Carte anywhere from €40 to €100/PP.